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Couldn't resist! Now what? Franken-3a


stupidhead

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add to all of these things that I am not particularly artsy nor am I a fragile or delicate handed person.

I suppose I have nothing to lose though, I will go grab some new chisels and set out to try my hand at this.

Question: Do I need to use contact cement for re-affixing to cabinets? Wood glue? Gorilla Glue? I have had great success with Gorilla glue in past wood gluing applications but never for detail and tight tolerance stuff like this. :unsure:

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On ‎4‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 11:24 AM, stupidhead said:

add to all of these things that I am not particularly artsy nor am I a fragile or delicate handed person.

I suppose I have nothing to lose though, I will go grab some new chisels and set out to try my hand at this.

Question: Do I need to use contact cement for re-affixing to cabinets? Wood glue? Gorilla Glue? I have had great success with Gorilla glue in past wood gluing applications but never for detail and tight tolerance stuff like this. :unsure:

Quite the quandary.....:) I would try a heat gun and a five inch drywall blade for smoothing joint compound as they are thin and sharp for trying to remove the chips from plywood. I would use a good wood glue for those pieces after you fit them really well....and then a piece of wood with aluminum foil wrapped around it to clamp the veneer piece with pressure. The foil keeps the wood from sticking to each other and if any foil sticks to  veneer piece, it is easily removed with razor blade.

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On 4/27/2017 at 7:34 AM, stupidhead said:

Great point, and yes I looked at the plywood surface. All the pieces are there but the surgery to remove and then reattach just seems very intimidating. I put the piece away and just have been focused on other approaches to repair.

Thanx for bringing this up and I will revisit this possible approach. Here is a pic of the plywood and as you can see it is the mirror image of the walnut veneer. If anyone has ideas on how to tackle this please chime in.

plywoodunder.thumb.JPG.57855e7939c5abc087813e6b373bb167.JPG

Hi Geoff,

Definitely try to remove the pieces on the plywood with some heat to put back in place on the cab.

Harvesting veneer from the 4 cabs is a good move, vintage veneer will be a much better color match when refinishing.

That grain pattern is beautiful and unusual, si there lies the challenge. Some artful use of some dark walnut oil or stain should help with those darker areas.

Glenn

Glenn

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stupidhead,

Personally, I wouldn't get too hung up on trying to save the existing veneer, especially if the primary reason is to save the interesting grain.  There are many sources for buying beautiful and highly unusual walnut veneer.  The sky (and your checkbook) is the limit.  A complete re-veneer also opens up the possibility of changing wood species.  If you like unusual and breathtaking, there are many, many options.

I would be concerned that the marks from where panels were glued on will show through the finial finish.  There will likely be marks/flaws from where you patched the veneer and to a lesser extent the nail holes.

I don't know what your goals are.  If your primary goal is originality, then you are heading down the right track.  Of course, you could always complete the speakers the per your current plan and see if you are happy with the results.  Re-veneering is always an option.

Glitch

 

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I have been following this thread with much interest.  I admire your attempt to bring the original veneer back from its current state. If these were my cabinets I would tend to agree somewhat with Glitch. You have solid originals with the proper documentation on the back. My thought would be re veneer them with some nice quartersawn teak veneer. Done right they would be some very collectable 3's.  Just my opinion. Whatever you do will more than likely look good. Oh and by the way, what ever became of the 1967 3a cabinets?

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so finally an update! I am glad for the interest this has generated and appreciate all input.

I harvested as best I could the bits of veneer from the peeled off plywood and glued back in place. I would say a little disappointing result, not quite a total fail.

afterveneersalvage.thumb.JPG.7bd4e3b5fd9439b308768f8a260a02d7.JPG

 

as you can see, not a perfect marriage and a few spots where the salvaged veneer was in fact just not salvageable, at least with my limited skills and experience. This triggered me to peel off the other ones veneers and top plate and this is what we get

otherone.thumb.JPG.8cec8e5279f08e76e84c4215fe12ec94.JPG

which is basically more of the same. One thing the second has confirmed is that these were sanded before the veneer and top plate were installed. Plain evidence of sanding into veneer bottom and top right side of pic. Nail pattern a bit different and some veneer ripping occurred but maybe not as bad as first one.

My gut is to work the nail holes a bit and re-oil both faces. I love the story these cabinets tell.

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3 hours ago, stupidhead said:

so finally an update! I am glad for the interest this has generated and appreciate all input.

I harvested as best I could the bits of veneer from the peeled off plywood and glued back in place. ...

My gut is to work the nail holes a bit and re-oil both faces. I love the story these cabinets tell.

These speakers will definitely have a lot of character. You can't buy character -- you have to earn it.

I was always fond of using epoxy for wood restoration projects from boat building days.

My salvaged AR-3a's have AR-58 uppers and reconed woofers and are still a work-in-progress ... your house remodel is looking good, Geoff!

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  • 4 months later...
3 hours ago, jurgen59 said:

Did you found already new woofers, I have old ones on stock, bought for future restauration when necessary of my LST's / AR3a, live in Holland, you can contact me at weldtech@online.nl, i'am no trader, just an adept

 

Jurgen Prinsen 

email inquiry sent,

prosit

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  • 3 months later...

hi folks!

so been laying low a bit for a while but still here! i put the 3 project(s) on hold for a now and have been focusing on a variety of other distractions.

there has some advances in the living space and there has been much encouraging interest by many so figured I would post a couple of updated pics.

fromsink.thumb.jpg.58dc379aa45127baedad38c4260b6e2c.jpg

 

overview.thumb.jpg.cb4c54162aae9b38d8b1544924817f54.jpg

 

sink.thumb.jpg.e3786b71a298c8f1ab11811f74cd89e3.jpg

 

and as you can see much progress but still not complete.

I ran into some issues with the new floor. Remember the space is basically a 30" x 36" space and I did not allow enough expansion space at either end and had some buckling/cupping in some of the layout. After much soul searching and rework we are now in a good place with the floor.

I know some of you have an architect background so a question for all interested readers, any thoughts on backsplash for kitchen area. While our vision was pretty clear on much of the materials used and the general theme or vibe being sort of industrial we did not settle on a back splash and wanted to wait til everything was in place before deciding on materials.

trust me I will get back to the 3s this year, but just wanted to see if anyone had some thoughts on this.

Geoff

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Looks great Geoff!

I'm no architect or interior designer but a couple of thoughts on the backsplash: You said you have an industrial "vibe" so one option may be stainless steel tiles but I think that may be "too" industrial. I could see grey stone type tiles with glass tile accent. Here are some examples from the interweb: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This is sort of the look. It's a pic of my shower but I've seen it on backsplashes. Maybe some horizontal "subway slate" as in one of the examples above, with glass accents as shown here. Just my 2 cents

Kent

shower.JPG

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When I googled "stainless steel backsplash" I found this SS and Basalt combo that strikes a compromise between industrial and natural.

I can see why the choice is so tough.

Also, maybe asking on a forum populated by 99% guys isn't the best choice for interior design :D

 

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Hey Kent!

thanx for chiming in and sharing thoughts. you are absolutely right that it is not an easy decision. I have a sneaky suspicion someone here will have some ideas on options.

we were initially thinking (before any construction) some sort of Terrazzo tile or maybe glass, but those ideas are distant memories now. we thought about using tin to play off of the ceiling tile work pictured here

tinceiling.thumb.jpg.0104b8b8d1d1b235ed5c06d8c3e73b13.jpg

but feel that it would be daunting to keep clean, and is a relatively delicate material and could be damaged over time!

of course stainless is an option, particularly over the Viking and we are thinking a warming shelf between stove and hood would be nice, but would not get a great deal of actual use.

in any case, your next trip to Maine should include stopping by and seeing this space, and of course some listening is in order.

by the way, we have effectively entered the rabbit hole that is digital/wireless as part of the system(s).

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Really like those countertops - very clean & classic.

And it looks like somebody collects Fiestaware, too!

My niece's husband does custom kitchens for a living, and his general advice is to try to be as conservative as possible in your choices; the idea being that styles change quickly, and unless you want to re-do the thing every few years, it's best to avoid "trendiness".

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The guy I recently bought my AR-58S speakers from, was personally remodeling his kitchen too.  Similar style and quality of work.  Though, he went with the new black stainless steel appliances.  That was my first time seeing that finish.  It was very classy.  Regardless, great work so far.  Love the sink.  Nicely done.  Joanna Gaines would be proud!  But, no pot filler?  Shame on you.  :P

 

overview.jpg

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