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GD70

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Everything posted by GD70

  1. I’m going to be a thorn in your butt! Before you can make an educated and real sonic comparison, both need to be restored. This may not be something you want to do, or invest the money into, but both are excellent.
  2. These are historic, investment speakers. Every part can be rebuilt or replaced. Sonically, when properly restored, are phenomenal sounding. I have two pairs, both found at thrifts, both I’ve completely restored. Mids and tweeters were sent to Roy. He also repaired one of my woofers, replacing the spider because of some distortion. The mids are critical in bringing these back to near new sound. The tweeters are more readily available, used in the 2as as well. If the tweeters in the set you’re looking at need replacing, should not be problematic. Stains on the cabs doesn’t mean they are unfinished pine. Once you get them out of the basement, please post as many pics as possible. I would seriously consider getting them, and restoring them properly.
  3. We’re all very lucky to have Roy’s knowledge, help and dedication to these terrific speakers. Cheers!
  4. They look great! My tweeters were all blown when I bought mine from a CL listing. At the time no one was rebuilding these tweeters, basically “paper weights” and I stupidly tossed them, and went with the HiVi tweeters that Roy recommended at the time. Mine were basket cases, needing a reveneer, all the grill frames were broken and needed to be glued back together, and new grill cloth from 123 Stitch. They sound great and look brand new! Chris does great work. He’s restored some for me for some 3as. Did you reform your woofers as well? Really great sounding speakers, and scary dimensional. They seem to bend sound around corners! Cheers Glenn
  5. Very nice work! Be proud and show them off!
  6. So it’s been a while. How are you liking the 910s?
  7. My thread showing the restoration of my 12s may be helpful. Lots of pics of the driver and cabinet restoration. Cheers, Glenn
  8. Thanks Roy! They look fragile! Remind me of the KLH Seventeen/Twenty cabs. It's a nice look. Glenn
  9. Lovely! I've never seen this cabinet version for the 3a.
  10. Here you go. http://sportsbil.com/ads/l-1090-brochure.pdf
  11. So these are 3a grills with the linen material. One of my sets has these, obviously replaced.. The 3 grills are a completely different material called Saran. It’s actually a plastic weave, and the frames are plastic.
  12. Send the mids to Roy. See what he says. Regarding the woofers, you will not find cloth surrounds in the wild. You need to get the complete woofers. The cabs finish And color is up to you, but natural color watcos is what I’ve used on all the restorations I’ve done, and sometimes I mix in medium or dark walnut color where color matching is required. Glenn
  13. Beautiful work on those Kent! I’m sure your client was thrilled when they saw them for the first time! Kudos to Larry for making the grill frames for you! Cheers, Glenn
  14. I agree with briodo, sell them in tact as they are. They can be easily restored. Too bad you can’t keep them and have the Restoration work done, they just might unseat one of your other set of speakers.
  15. Hi Mike, Nice 3s, but unfortunate for the woofers issue. The woofer missing the surround with the foam ring around the dust cap is a correct 3 woofer, but the cloth surround has been removed. It was originally glued to the Masonite ring, which was glued to the basket. The 2nd woofer is a later model woofer. Maybe for the 3a, or another model. We would need to see the magnet and numbers. Being that the 3 is very desirable and valuable, you should really get correct woofers with the cloth surrounds. Occasionally I've seen these refoamed, but could never figure out why, unless they were severely damaged, or, look like yours. Woofers show up on eBay fairly often, so I'd start looking for good clean replacements. The mids are known to have greatly diminished output due to the original white soft sealer around the dome base petrifying, which keeps the dome from moving. Roy C. rebuilds the mids, in fact he currently has a set of mine as well as my tweeters for restoration. Original mids are very difficult to find, and extremely expensive when they do show up. A set sold on eBay for 400 last month! The pots are another known issue with many ARs as they corrode inside blocking the signal to the mids and tweeters. They often have no sound. Sometimes twisting the pot knobs back and forth a lot will find a spot bringing the driver back to life. That wax block contains the caps. Replace them. Match the values printed on the block. How are the cabs and grills? Please post pics showing their condition. Are you handy working with wood and finishes? These will require a lot of work, and money to properly restore them back to close to original sound, but well worth it. I've got two sets, one fully restored, and they sound phenominal! Look on eBay to get an idea of the prices these command. You got yours for free! The 3a restoration guide is an excellent guide to read and follow for repairs. Many can be applied to the 3. Also, may I suggest you read through my 3 restoration thread here. Lots of good info you may find helpful. Cheers, Glenn
  16. Regarding the Spragues, I'd still check them. I removed them in a set of 3as I restored several years ago, and surprisingly they were way off.
  17. Unfortunately, your pics are not visible.
  18. Tough call. They are difficult to find, and expensive. I would personally hold onto it as a backup. The tweeters are much easier to get, so save up for their rebuild.
  19. I found the easiest way to remove the woofers in AR speakers is to remove all the sealer putty around the basket edges and cab gap. Then you can get a wide blade screw driver under the basket edge and start prying it upward. Use a putty knife between the baffle and screw driver to protect the baffle from the screw driver as you pry the woofer loose. Once you break that seal, it will lift out easily. Notice that greenish color on the magnet? Don't touch it, or breath any dust from it. I would wipe it with wet paper towels before removing it from the cabinet. Glenn
  20. If those were mine, I'd completely, carefully sand the cab to the veneer surface. Then apply Watcos Danish natural color oil. The vintage veneer will darken, and usually will absorb 5 wipe on applications, I never paint it on, but wipe it on with cut up cotton t-shirts or an old sock. The veneer will absorb the first two applications almost immediately. Allow each application 24 hours to dry, then hand sand with 600 grit. I do this between each application. Good luck, Glenn
  21. Beautiful 3s you have there! Someone did a pretty sloppy job trying to bridge the leads. I'd remove the added wires and replace them with a single strand. You could use copper strands from untwisted speaker wire, pull a couple strands for your repair. Give yourself plenty extra to work with. When you join the copper and aluminum lead, be very careful as the aluminum is very fragile. Carefully make a little hook at the end of the aluminum wire, and a hook with the copper wire that has extra to wrap around the aluminum wire. You can try to solver it together, but definitely wrap with electrical tape. Then solder the other end of the copper wire to the terminal strip. Just heat up the old aluminum solder and remove before resoldering the copper wire with traditional solder.
  22. Thanks Kent, and I'm sure yours will look great when you're finished. Glenn
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