Jump to content

JKent

Members
  • Posts

    5,410
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JKent

  1. Forget about stacked Advents. Your stack rocks!
  2. Are you serious? For phony Advents? Where do you live? It seems to me a lot of people are getting rid of speakers that are "too big." I recently got some very nice Snells for free. And a CSP member has some AR-9s listed in the FS section for $800 which sounds to me like a steal if you have room for them and happen to live in New England so you can pick them up. But to your point: I doubt that I know any more about xo's than you do but it seems to me that, since your Polks are ported, you could simply splice into the tweeter wires, run long wires out through the port and attach L-Pads, then adjust them from your listening position until you find the setting that sounds right. Then solder in your fixed resistors. Kent PS: Looks like you posted while I was typing but I still think my suggestion would work if you want a reversible fix
  3. Nice work. Enjoy the music. I remember commenting to my audio technician friend that it was my impression that all Canadian hi-fi was excellent. He said "well, not ALL...." He named a company but I've forgotten the name. Electro-something? He said it was an attempt by the gov't to re-train lumberjacks to build audio equipment. Apparently not high quality. Sounds like a Monty Python bit to me ๐Ÿ˜„ I've always lusted after Bryston gear but never took the plunge.
  4. Yeah, those 47s are definitely new. And 47 is close enough to 50. You'll notice in my re-do, some caps and some resistors are close but not exact values. Speaking of which, it may be too late now but I always recommended replacing all of the 5w resistors with 10w. RoyC looked into this and identified just 1 or 2 that had to be replaced. I have to search my notes. One is the 5 ohm in the upper left corner in my pic. I'll try to get more info. Kent PS: OK. I think Roy said that 5 Ohm resistor in the woofer circuit should be 15 0r even 20 watts. There's a 15 Ohm in the mid circuit. I think it's the one in the middle of the board. That one's OK but could be bumped up to 10w. The other 5w resistors are fine. PPS: OOOPS. We were typing at the same time.
  5. Yeah. Beer softens me up too ๐Ÿ˜„ Your 4x's have a mesh cap, essentially. That should clean it up nicely but if the wood is thirsty, Howard recommends following up with their Feed n Wax. I use Aleene's on paper cones. Don't know how it will be on poly. I use that nasty nitrile based glue for plastic cones. Looking forward to more posts. Not familiar with that brand but those seem very nice. I think in general Canadian speakers are quite good. I'm told the Canadian government helps speaker manufacturers with R&D. I'd say they were a great find and a good project. Kent
  6. That's right. Is that your only double cap? Sometimes KLH used a double cap but both red leads went to the same point, so a single cap can be used instead. Kent
  7. Welcome back "cousin" ๐Ÿ˜‰ What a great find! (and great spouse!). Not sure about the dust cap. How does the woofer do with a push test? If it springs back maybe try a little white glue around the cap. If it still springs back use some of Roy's goo on the surrounds. Regarding the caps, I hope someone with more expertise chimes in but I don't see a problem. What are the implications for ESR? I dunno. I do know, from working on Snells, that Peter Snell was an advocate of "bundling" caps, so you're in good company. Kent
  8. Simply Speakers sells that glue. Maybe contact them and ask.
  9. I agree with Bill about replace those ancient wax caps. When I got my AR-3s the tweeters were shot (so was one mid) so I converted them to 3a's and because of that experience with tweeters I added the recommended Buss Fusetron Dual Element FNM 1-1/4 fuses. For your 4x's, AR recommends FNM 6/10. That document is in our Library. My only comment is these fuses and fuse blocks are clunky and a little hard to find. I wonder if there are other options. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/special_sections/additional_ar_documents/fusing_ar_speaker_systems_1/
  10. That's a standard phenolic ring tweeter (PRT). Parts Express also sells them, for a lower price. Our RoyC did extensive research to find a replacement for the 4x tweeter and found the classic PRT to be the best, albeit not perfect replacement. Ebay seller Vintage-AR sells these, mildly modified by Roy with his sealant. Those would be your best choice IMHO. His ebay store is closed until March 11. https://www.ebay.com/itm/194443157067
  11. Theyโ€™re Teledyne
  12. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256117804176?itmmeta=01HPWJNR0ZXM6V43P71XKKT0B8&hash=item3ba1cf8c90:g:absAAOSwGEJcernC&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4IgVb0Wjkh1GiflYwJMvUtuXT0s2NYubX36Tw0ePsK%2BB5uFOYV1CRrffdBPcZ4qBwFrbhMz5KM99Leu1af8mccJApB6imP4bGBfGtbicdL4%2BzfpUX9LUFRGrYzr%2FKXjOzzl0Qedg26mYTPenU42NV4WZFyh7l%2FrRYiAFjN%2BqGtmghv4G7Hvkt4ROGEMJxRjrgcYMdVo3y3k76N5VIegWLZUy7%2FNxqX1SYHiuzvhJmK0jRx1%2FyvBnpWdzN5jDaPc%2BQCoRCB5VuzRWx%2B0XymWEKHPBcOCTFaAFHYnOHuigHDhx|tkp%3ABFBMxoDXkrdj
  13. How about a picture of the โ€œbutt uglyโ€ speakers?
  14. ๐Ÿ˜„ Yeah. Snell was somewhat fanatical about crossovers. Every xo was matched to the drivers, so you couldn't buy a new woofer from them without also buying a new crossover. Personally, I think that's nonsense but one would think such fanaticism would warrant meticulously neat assembly. Apparently not. The J IIs are really nice but I have too many speakers and too little room. Trying to find a home for them.
  15. This is a nice Allison Electronic Subwoofer but I mistakenly bought the 220/240V version. Any European members interested? I replaced some electrolytic caps, then had a pro check it out so it's in good cosmetic and electronic condition, just won't work in North America. Asking $100 USD + shipping. Please PM me with questions. Kent
  16. I do have another but I also have the DB Systems preamp and tone control, which includes a bass boost https://www.dbsystemsaudio.com/DB-5a.jpg so the ESW is kinda superfluous. I think the active Allison forum was on Yahoo. I've never been on Facebook. My tech told me what to look for in a transformer but I haven't found one yet. Maybe I beed to watch for a "parts only" ESW or maybe put it on Ebay and hope someone in Europe wants it. In the meantime, think I'll try our For Sale section.
  17. Bought another one of these last April. Ebay seller wrote "Seems to have a hum. Not sure whatโ€™s going on with it" so I took a chance. Did a full recap and no improvement so I took it to a pro. He checked it out, then noticed the VERY small print: 240 Volts AC. Seems I got a European model (?). I may look into a new transformer.
  18. I've made a few of the Zaph Audio Hi-Vi B3 speakers before. I use the B3N because it looks better. Here's my first effort https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/8473-polk-psw-200-auto-parts-store-resto-zaph-satellites/#comment-104142I also made a pair to use as surround speakers in my HT. But I had one cabinet left over. What to do with that? Recently I built my first BlueTooth speaker, written up here: https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/20094-bluetooth-mini-guitar-amp/. So it seemed logical to make a single Zaph speaker as a BlueTooth. Cabinet is solid oak. Rear panel is Masonite. Driver is a B3N. BT amp board, Battery board, LED kit, cable kit, DC power supply are all from PE just like the "guitar amp" speaker. I put a grille on this to protect the driver but the ones from PE interfered with the surround so I found some on Amazon that work. Filter network was built on a small breadboard. These were all parts from my parts bins: 2 Dayton resistors (30 ohm, 8 ohm) 4.3uF made up of a 2.7 and 1.5 (I figure 4.2 is close enough) 0.08mH inductor is a 1.0 unwound to 0.08, the 0.8mH is a spare part of unknown origin. On the back panel there are the volume control with a salvaged knob, on/off switch, Aux in, green BT reset button, Red charging LED and socket for the power supply. I think the Zaph design sounds great. I have a couple of commercial BT speakers that I use outside in the summer but this one sounds far superior IMHO.
  19. A couple of months ago my niece was telling me about a cool BlueTooth speaker her friend has (first picture, below). Knowing I'm a "speker guy" she asked if I could build one for her. Of course I couldn't refuse. This would be my first venture into BlueTooth territory. Virtually all of the parts came from Parts Express. I used the Dayton Audio KAB-100Mv2 1 x 100W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with aptX HD Bluetooth 5.0. Probably overkill but it seemed to be the only mono board. As it turned out, it's really stereo with the speaker wires soldered together. I probably should have called first and asked for advice but this is fine. Also bought the Battery Extension Board, Function Cables Package and Red/Green/Blue LED Package. For the cabinet, my bro-in-law put together a simple 4-sided pine box, routed the edges, cut Masonite panels for the front and back, and an aluminum panel for the controls. All scrap pieces from his shop. For the drivers and crossover I used the tweeter and xo from a Polk RMDS-1 that had a bad woofer. The woofer I used is a Bravox WFR-03MX01 3.5" Poly Cone Woofer. PE had these as Buyouts in 2010 (!) for about 6 bucks each. This was my last one. Wish I'd bought more. For the covering, I originally planned to use some pebble-grain "leather patch" from Amazon that comes in a roll. Then I realized forming it over the rounded off corners could be tricky. Maybe the spray-on truck bed liner I've used before? That turned out to be a mistake. Another PE order: Acry-Tech DuraTex Black 1 Quart Roller Grade Cabinet Texture Coating Kit with Textured 3" Roller. Worked great. I was looking for something that would resemble Tolex and this filled the bill. It's water-based so cleanup was a snap. To add to the guitar amp look I added small corner protectors from Amazon. Grille is a vinyl basket-weave placemat. I stuffed the box with polyfill. The power supply is also from PE. Socket was from my local electronics store. The battery pack recharges on anything from 12 to 24 VDC so I had hoped to use one of the many wall warts I have on hand but PE advised me those were inadequate so I ordered their 19.5V DC 3.33A power supply. 99% finished. I plan to add a thin brass strip on the bottom of the grille, like on the Marshall amp in the first picture. I had to call PE's tech support a couple of times and found them to be very helpful. I also found a mistake on the instruction sheet that I hope they've fixed by now. I have another BlueTooth speaker (different style) in the works and will post pictures when it's finished.
  20. Photos in this thread Also here: As I wrote, I like the KA-1s and I think paired with any good sub(s) they would be great in a stereo system. In a smaller room or for listening to chamber music you may not want/need a sub. There's a review of the KA1 linked here: I have never heard the Model 3. My only other Cizeks are HTAs that I use as the center and rear channel speakers.
  21. I use my KA-1s as part of a surround-sound setup. The sub is a kit-built VMPS that I later added a plate amp to. I think it sounds great. The KA-1s had matching subs, the KA-18s https://www.subito.it/audio-video/sistema-diffusori-vintage-cizek-ka18-milano-507009960.htm For some reason it seems Cizeks were more popular in Italy than here. I'd love to find a pair of KA-18s (or even one) but doubt that will happen.
×
×
  • Create New...