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About owlsplace

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  • Birthday 12/01/1953

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  1. Very nice, probably from 1971-2 production. There should be some dates on the back of the drivers. The wax double cap needs replacement. Pots are clean, lube or just replace with L-pads and be done with it. Looks like generic surrounds on the woofers which is not the best and I think the #10 coil was an early variation of the xover. I have a blond sequentially numbered pair which was more common although harder to find in good shape Enjoy -- when the 5s were good, they were really good. Downside is they like large amps and have fragile tweeters. Fusing is recommended.
  2. I didn't get them. I think they wanted $400 which meant they wouldn't end up in someone's basement more than likely. More than likely they will need some inside work.
  3. Noticed this pair of 2a's up on CL inside the beltway. I am downsizing currently otherwise these are probably the nicest I have ever seen. Photos are for reference -- unfortunately, or fortunately depending on your perspective, no shots with the grills off. I would guess this is 1959 early production by the serial numbers. Do they belong to someone on this group? Roger
  4. Still haven't opened these yet, but I'm amazed at how good they still sound after all these years. Would have loved to have the birch cabs.
  5. Glad you are up and running again. I have a set of fives that are all original and a set with the Hi-Vi conversion and it is obvious that I need to have Chris rebuild the dome tweeters. Love the AR-5s for sentimental reasons Here is an easy way to find more info on them here by using this search phrase: "AR-5 site:http://www.classicspeakerpages.net" Roger
  6. Yeah, two more sets of 6's and a set of 5's here plus I had to abandon a set of 5 cabs that were in progress during my recent downsize -- brought the drivers though Oh, just remembered a set of 7's waiting for veneer and an upgrade to drivers from the 18 series.... The 7's in the photo are teak veneer from across the pond.
  7. Fun, but Frank doesn't do 10-inch woofers does he? A bit pricey also
  8. Too much power, yes and no depending on source material and listening levels. You can always use the recommended fuses although the slow-blow FNM fuses get expensive if you are fond of blowing them. It may possible to use less expensive fuses and get the same coverage. ADS and Heathkit used the 6x30mm glass fast-blow fuses which are a lot easier on the pocketbook. I generally preferred to not blow the FNMs and play different speakers when the music needed to be loud. Ditto on Larry's comment. Source material and average power levels determine the amount of heat build up. A low powered amp that is clipping will deliver a lot of energy to the tweeters often causing the VC leads to melt and separate like a fuse. I'm sure more than a few people here have put drivers back into service by bridging those gaps. I have powered AR-5's with an Adcom 555 II through a passive pre with the volume at max playing the Simon & Garfunkel "Concert in the Park" cd --- which is the same as connecting a player straight to the amp --- with no issues. The speakers were fused and they sounded great --- thought I was at the concert. This amp puts out 200 wpc into 8-ohms although I'm not sure a cd players output is high enough to drive the amp to full power out. The 5's were always were power hogs. Anyway, the Classic-era tweeters had longevity problems delivering high SPLs without self-destructing, the Teledyne AR-9 era drivers not so much. At least that is my impression. My advice would be to use whatever amp you want but fuse them or lose them if you like the volume set on high or use lots of tonal compensation, i.e. treble boost. JMHO, Roger
  9. Actually, I used to keep six pairs selectable by switch powered by the Adcom 555 II that I rebuilt along with the AR-SRC pre. That was capable of carrying all six sets but was fond of blowing speaker fuses when the volume went up; especially, if the impedance matching circuitry was not switched in. Obviously no consideration is given to placement here other than stackability. That is an Adcom passive pre in the photo. The amps are a couple of Sonance 260's that I picked up for a project that failed to materialize. They are 60 wpc high-current amps that warm up nicely driving the 2,3, and 5's together, not that I would want to do that very often. The 3's have AR-58 mids and tweeters, so technically not Classic-era and the 2's are Heathkit versions that have not had any work done to them since they were built as far as I can tell other than my removing the grills to look at the drivers. I'm sure these represent lots of entertainment over the years and more yet to come. Roger
  10. AR-2, AR-3a, AR-4, AR-5, AR-6 and AR-7 ... some pimps and tweeks in the bunch and a lot of entertainment... Roger
  11. I wonder if these will suffer the same issues with electrolysis as the originals pots? The combination of high current and dissimilar metals seems to be the original issue. Roger
  12. What differences should I be looking for here as mine are currently in progress? Roger
  13. The AR-4 series are AR's perennial favorite speakers. As long is there is something available to power them they will be playing for many years to come no doubt. And they make great projects if you have time to kill... Here a few that ended up as projects Yes, by all means go back for the other pair and welcome to CSP.
  14. I haven't been keeping up on the forum and noticed this old question that went unanswered. These speakers may come out of storage shortly. Looking at a black finish and probably finding a new owner if anyone needs a project. I have an extra NIB tweeter also.
  15. I had the enamel off okay. I must have soldered it with a pencil iron and didn't get the joint hot enough. One of the speakers was wheezing a bit when I played them. I noticed the surround was not attached entirely. There isn't much material there either as in maybe too small. I reattached with E6000 adhesive. These were labeled "Precision Audio" on masking tape around the magnet.
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