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GD70

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  1. Hi Mike, Nice 3s, but unfortunate for the woofers issue. The woofer missing the surround with the foam ring around the dust cap is a correct 3 woofer, but the cloth surround has been removed. It was originally glued to the Masonite ring, which was glued to the basket. The 2nd woofer is a later model woofer. Maybe for the 3a, or another model. We would need to see the magnet and numbers. Being that the 3 is very desirable and valuable, you should really get correct woofers with the cloth surrounds. Occasionally I've seen these refoamed, but could never figure out why, unless they were severely damaged, or, look like yours. Woofers show up on eBay fairly often, so I'd start looking for good clean replacements. The mids are known to have greatly diminished output due to the original white soft sealer around the dome base petrifying, which keeps the dome from moving. Roy C. rebuilds the mids, in fact he currently has a set of mine as well as my tweeters for restoration. Original mids are very difficult to find, and extremely expensive when they do show up. A set sold on eBay for 400 last month! The pots are another known issue with many ARs as they corrode inside blocking the signal to the mids and tweeters. They often have no sound. Sometimes twisting the pot knobs back and forth a lot will find a spot bringing the driver back to life. That wax block contains the caps. Replace them. Match the values printed on the block. How are the cabs and grills? Please post pics showing their condition. Are you handy working with wood and finishes? These will require a lot of work, and money to properly restore them back to close to original sound, but well worth it. I've got two sets, one fully restored, and they sound phenominal! Look on eBay to get an idea of the prices these command. You got yours for free! The 3a restoration guide is an excellent guide to read and follow for repairs. Many can be applied to the 3. Also, may I suggest you read through my 3 restoration thread here. Lots of good info you may find helpful. Cheers, Glenn
  2. Regarding the Spragues, I'd still check them. I removed them in a set of 3as I restored several years ago, and surprisingly they were way off.
  3. Unfortunately, your pics are not visible.
  4. Tough call. They are difficult to find, and expensive. I would personally hold onto it as a backup. The tweeters are much easier to get, so save up for their rebuild.
  5. Far better than before. Nice work.
  6. I found the easiest way to remove the woofers in AR speakers is to remove all the sealer putty around the basket edges and cab gap. Then you can get a wide blade screw driver under the basket edge and start prying it upward. Use a putty knife between the baffle and screw driver to protect the baffle from the screw driver as you pry the woofer loose. Once you break that seal, it will lift out easily. Notice that greenish color on the magnet? Don't touch it, or breath any dust from it. I would wipe it with wet paper towels before removing it from the cabinet. Glenn
  7. If those were mine, I'd completely, carefully sand the cab to the veneer surface. Then apply Watcos Danish natural color oil. The vintage veneer will darken, and usually will absorb 5 wipe on applications, I never paint it on, but wipe it on with cut up cotton t-shirts or an old sock. The veneer will absorb the first two applications almost immediately. Allow each application 24 hours to dry, then hand sand with 600 grit. I do this between each application. Good luck, Glenn
  8. Beautiful 3s you have there! Someone did a pretty sloppy job trying to bridge the leads. I'd remove the added wires and replace them with a single strand. You could use copper strands from untwisted speaker wire, pull a couple strands for your repair. Give yourself plenty extra to work with. When you join the copper and aluminum lead, be very careful as the aluminum is very fragile. Carefully make a little hook at the end of the aluminum wire, and a hook with the copper wire that has extra to wrap around the aluminum wire. You can try to solver it together, but definitely wrap with electrical tape. Then solder the other end of the copper wire to the terminal strip. Just heat up the old aluminum solder and remove before resoldering the copper wire with traditional solder.
  9. Thanks Kent, and I'm sure yours will look great when you're finished. Glenn
  10. Yup, that's why I went with pine. Easy to cut, easy to staple into, and still plenty strong.
  11. I was after the original look. What ever style, and cut that's decided on, leave at least 1/8th clearance all sides to account for the grill cloth.
  12. Hey Kent! Pics are in my thread here on CSP. I used 1 inch square pine, cut the 45 degree bevel cut, leaving a 1/4 inch top and side surfaces remaining. Fabric from PE. Cheers, Glenn
  13. Watcos doesn't dry glossy unless you apply many wet coats beyond what the veneer can absorb. All my cab restorations have used Watcos, and all have a nice matt/satin finish. Usually five applications is all the veneer will absorb. When I apply the oil, I wipe it on with an old sock, or cut up t-shirt. I never apply so much that I need to wipe away extra each application.
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