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Stimpy

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  1. This same model of AR Subwoofer is up on eBay (not mine) too. The seller is "only" asking $1089.00...! I think the OP's $75 cost was the much better deal.
  2. An interesting dilemma. When (acceptable) replacement parts are no longer available, what do we do? How much time, money and effort do we expend, in order to keep our AR's playing? And at what point, are they no longer AR's?
  3. Stimpy

    AR 58s

    I'm sorry to hear about your speaker issues. AR58S speakers are great sounding. I love mine, and I hope you get yours sorted out. The 4uF cap is for the tweeter. Easy to find, from multiple sites. I've used Parts Express, Parts Connexion, Madisound, and Sonic Craft. All sell high quality capacitors. And if you recap one tweeter, recap both, to keep them matched. Good luck!
  4. Well, Bill Dudleston was a huge Acoustic Research AR9 fan...!
  5. I believe they are AR cone tweeters, used in at least AR7's.
  6. The 150uF is a shunt to ground. A NPE would be fine for that. The 40 and 4 uF are series caps, and I tend to use poly for those. I've tried Audyn, ClarityCap, Dayton, and Mundorf for those, and like Mundorf best. But, a combination of ClarityCap CSA's and Mundorf EVO Oils would sound very good in parallel together, for the mid dome. Warm and open. A Dayton or Clarity CSA's would work fine for the tweeters. All IMHO.
  7. E-Caps. Wimp...! Those ClarityCap CSA's will sound fine. They should make for a nice match. Warm and relaxed. But, a long break in period.
  8. Well done! I'm personally happy to see that you used respected brands of capacitors, as well as using good, like capacitors for the series values. In my experience, that really helps the speakers to continue to sound as a single voice. Also, please update your thread, as the speakers break in. Just curious if you'll hear improvements in sound? Thanks for sharing!
  9. Not fakes. Just not the original classic versions. Redesigns and reissues from a much later time period. So unfortunately, your AR's won't have quite the resale value of the more well known earlier models. Also, I agree with the other post, check eBay. But only look through Completed Sales. That'll show what prices auctions actually achieved when sold. Good luck.
  10. I've experimented a bit with different brands of capacitors. Both NPE and film. And while I find modern NPE's to make very good replacement caps, I still find their lesser resolution distracting. Therefore, I now always recap with film/poly. It doesn't have to be expensive boutique parts. Even Dayton or Erse will sound good, but SoniCap, or ClarityCaps, or Mundorf will sound better. Dayton caps sound pretty even and balanced. Sometimes a little sibilant, but good for the price. ClarityCaps were warm sounding, with a good soundstage. ESR similar to electrolytic, so driver balance shouldn't shift, with their use. Mundorf, to me, were the most open and transparent of the caps I've used. Very palpable. I like them best. Regardless, any new modern caps will most likely be an improvement, no matter which type are used. It just depends on how resolving you want the speakers to be, after the recap? Good luck.
  11. Did you find a nice improvement in sound, with the correct LMR driver? Care to share details about what differences were heard? Also, was the 210045 poly cone better in any area? Just curious. Thanks.
  12. Beautiful work on the refoam. Well done. Also, I just looked again at those 58 woofers. I didn't realize they were that horrible. It looks like someone glued a partial woofer on top of the AR woofer? What were they thinking? Brutal to see good woofers treated like that. I'm glad you had the back-up spares! And hopefully, you can pop out that UMR dome too?
  13. Yep those are 91 boards. And I didn't know that AR used T.I. caps. I believe those are Mylar. The Unicon caps were nice too. Both brands better than the black/red Callins capacitors in my AR90's. Are you planning on a recap, prior to the swap?
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