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Stimpy

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  1. Thanks @r_laski, I appreciate the kind words. 😃
  2. The parts list looks good. But, don't forget the 350uF Capacitor on the woofer. These should do it. MDL 100 X 2 MDL 150 As to "series" and "parallel", don't be confused. The 4, 6, 24, and 80 capacitors are all series capacitors, as they're wired directly in the circuit part to their respective drivers. Now, since you have to combine caps, to add to the needed values, they are wired in parallel, to correctly add together. Then, the parallel bundle is wired up where it's used. The actual "parallel" caps, in the schematic, are shunt capacitors, since they are wired to ground. Now, you can also order ClarityCaps through Madisound. They look to have your missing caps in stock. Good luck!
  3. Those look awesome! Well done. Though, I do wonder why AR used a brown front face, where the 9s and 90s were black? You'd think they'd all match each other, since they are all part of the Vertical Series.
  4. I've asked before about the AR90s internal wiring, and if I should wire the woofers in phase with the upper drivers? Wired like the 9s, since my 90s never exhibited great bass performance. I'd love to know the reasoning between the 9s and 90s, and why they're wired differently? Also, I've had the same phase issues with my 90s too, when using them for HT duty. My Yamaha RX-A3030 AVR, which uses YPAO set up software, identified phase issues with the speakers. I let the AVR correct the phase problem, and bass response greatly improved.
  5. From the close up picture of the coated cone, it looks like it was treated with Parts Express Wet Look. I've used it before, to treat stained woofers, and Wet Look has that same translucent shiny appearance. After coating, I didn't hear any negative effects from the treatment. But, I don't have test equipment to measure for differences, so I have to just trust my ears.
  6. Animal must have the luck of this guy! I wish. AR-9 and AR-9LS challenge ahead And I thought I'd seen audio hoarding before
  7. David, do the finished drivers resemble the prototypes, or do they look more like standard AR drivers?
  8. Our AR90s have 8 capacitors. The series capacitors (directly in-line with the drivers) are 4.0 and 6.0 (for the tweeter), 24.0 (for the upper dome mid) and 80.0uF (for the lower midrange). The parallel/shunt capacitors are 8.0, 30.0, 40.0, and 350.0uF. The 90s originally used all non polarized electrolytic capacitors. New NPEs are still available. Film capacitors can be used too. Match the uF rating as closely as possible. Voltages on the replacement capacitors can be higher, without issue. I shop for capacitors at the following sites: Madisound, Parts Connexion, and Parts Express. All 3 companies sell the M.D.L. brand of NPE. So, it's easy to match like for like, at these sites. A good thing too, as you might not find the exact values at any one site. As such, you'll probably need to wire 2 caps in parallel, to add to the needed value, i.e. a 200uF and a 150uF, for the 350uF bass shunt. Personally, I use polypropylene film capacitors for the series caps, and NPE for the shunt capacitors. I find this improves the sound, while helping to save money by using NPE shunts. All poly is fine, if budget allows, and all NPE is fine, in order to match the original design. If the idea of using poly caps is interesting, check out the Humble HomeMade Capacitor Test. The site has tested and reviewed many brands of capacitors; both poly and NPE. An interesting read. Me, I used Mundorf EVO Oil caps, on my 90s, for the series caps. Axon, for the shunts. While my 90s are still a work in progress (no comments), listening tests showed the poly upgrade made a notable difference in sound. Oh, I've also used ClarityCaps, and like those too. Mundorf for transparency or ClarityCaps for warmth, depending on taste. IMO. 'Luck...! Oh yea, Parts Express has a new capacitor chart. It shows all the available cap values and links to prices. Crossover Capacitors
  9. The AR58S crossover was simplified, compared to the 91, with the elimination of the level switches. Otherwise, it's not a simple 6dB first order crossover. Both can sound great, if correctly designed. Regardless, good luck with the 58S speakers, and the crossover swap. That should be fun. 😃
  10. When you refurbed your 9s, did that include a recap? If not, defective capacitors can definitely cause static distortion. I've recapped ARs that exhibited distortion before a recap, and everything was completely clean afterwards.
  11. The AR90 manual showed response graphs from different room positions. While not always optimal, none of the graphs looked horrid. Before I gave up on AR9s, I'd have to try every possible spot first. Plus, nothing new, in an affordable range, is going to compete with the 9s.
  12. Yes, the 925s use the same tweeters as the 9s and 90s. The 200032 mid could also be used for 9/90s, too. So while 925s could be used as donor boxes, I'd hate to do that, as the 92/925 variants are worthy as well. But, as you say, if the sacrifice is necessary "to keep the AR9/90's alive", I suppose it's a necessary evil.
  13. I just found the 925 drawing, and it's midrange is also 200032.
  14. The AR91, AR92, AR915, and AR925 could all use the same dome midrange. The 91/92 part number is 200032. The dome midrange, from an AR58S would also work, but the color of the dome trim and frame is different. The domes from AR9s and 90s shouldn't be used, as they have a higher resonance frequency. Good luck.
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