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Stimpy

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  1. I purchased my AR90s factory direct, around 1980, through the employee purchase program. Both the UMR drivers and the tweeters had the foam inserts. All pieces still show no deterioration and are in great shape.
  2. I used to run my AR90s on a NAD 3140 integrated amp. With it's the ability to double power into 4 Ohms, and the NAD Soft Clipping circuit, it worked fine, for my modest needs.
  3. Hi Jose, I'm glad the tweeters worked out for you! But, I'm truly sorry to hear that the transaction was so expensive. It makes it difficult to be a music lover. The new AR18 tweeters should be soft and sweet in balance. Not bright at all. Though, I'd still keep your now spare Philips tweeters, in case you ever need a temporary replacement. As to binding posts, Parts Express used to sell a drop in replacement for your speaker, with banana jacks instead of spring clips. Now, I no longer see it on their site. So, maybe check with Falcon Acoustics. They're are a UK based loudspe
  4. Here's the AR90 crossover schematic. You should be able to identify the resistors from it. Also, I like Chris's idea of cleaning the switches. It can't hurt.
  5. The "0" position is a straight connection, through the switches. The -3 and -6 positions engage resistors. Some of those resistors failed in my 90s, and had to be replaced. You might be having the same issue.
  6. I'm not sure about how easily the 4xa tweeters would be to use, as they're front wired. But, there is a new old stock pair of AR18 tweeters on eBay US. The seller advertises shipping to Germany. AR18 Tweeters Good luck.
  7. Hi Chris, Those switch ideas sound like a good plan. An extremely easy way to perform instant A/B comparisons. I'll definitely look forward to your impressions once implemented. As to my NPE adventures, I tried Bennic and M.D.L. While they sounded fine, they seemed compressed in nature. It was like the speakers had lost their dynamics. Which I really disliked. As a test, and since I was already using Mundorf poly caps on my 90's, I bought ClarityCaps for the 58's. Clarity CSA's the the 4uF tweeter cap, and a 24 for the dome mid. I left the NPE's on the parallel stunts.
  8. It was a series of events, that lead to my downfall...! First, I wanted to move back to a 2 channel set up, to better support my soon to be completed 90's. That meant no longer using my Yamaha AVR, and hooking up separates again. So, off I went to grab an amp from my equipment closet. I hooked it up, and hum? I try another amp, and hum again! A 3rd and final amp, and still hum. I could only assume that either my once new amps were now too vintage (like me) to use, or I was getting ground loop hum from the incoming cable. Next, I found a recapped amp, to test the vintage the
  9. Yes, I know. Too slow. The 90s have been refoamed, the crossovers recapped, and the cabinets stripped for refinishing. But, that's where I'm stuck. I'm good at electrical and mechanical, and not so good at furniture refinishing. I'm still doing that part. One day soon, I'll do it, as I'm getting impatient to finish. Now that I'm at that point, I know it'll get done. Thankfully.
  10. I'm rebuilding my AR90s, but it feels like I've been working on them since 2004...! 🙃
  11. It's awesome to hear you acquired these Chris. A perfect fit, considering what needs to be done. And even more impressive, how much you've already accomplished. Also, my AR58S speakers had Unicon capacitors, like your 9LS speakers. For stock, they still sounded very good. In fact, better than the new M.D.L. electrolytics I tried, in a recap. I had to go to poly caps, for all the series values, in order to hear an improvement. Good luck.
  12. "Acceptable tolerance for capacitors is -20% to +80%"...? That seems too broad of an acceptable tolerance. A tweeter or midrange capacitor at +80% could lead to damage of a driver. Happily, many modern electrolytic capacitors are sold with a -/+10% tolerance, even tighter. Most poly caps are -/+5% or tighter. Even Parts Express sells the inexpensive Dayton -/+1% film capacitors. The Mundorf caps I use are -/+3%. On removing paint, I've had good luck with Citri-Strip Gel Stripper. Rub it on, let it sit, and wipe it away. It does a great job on removing paint and lacquer. I al
  13. I guess that's not too bad, considering the speakers will be tested and tweaked as needed. But, for $450, I'd want high quality capacitors. While good, the often recommended Solen can be bettered. ClarityCap, Mundorf, Jantzen, Audyn or similar at least. Also, I agree with some of the older posts in this thread; I wouldn't replace the crossover inductors, just the caps and resistors. The inductors were already very good, and unless damaged in some way, don't need replacing. That would allow more of the budget to be allocated to the capacitors too.
  14. The 210 tweeter, that David referenced, is different that my 410s. And we had 110s and 210s at work, and they had tweeters that matched my 410s as well. So, it would appear that AR developed another TSW tweeter, for their entry level models. As such, I'd continue to search for 410, 510, 610 and 710 tweeters, to find a correct match. Also, the Holographic tweeter is a cloth dome, and not a TSW metal dome. It uses a metal coating vapor deposited over the dome, to give it the sheen look. But, I doubt it would be compatible with a 510. Be patient, and the correct tweeter will show up on
  15. The 810 and 910 used a unique tweeter manufactured by MB Quart. All the other tweeters are compatible with one another, so it shouldn't be too hard to pick up a spare via eBay.
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