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lARrybody

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About lARrybody

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  1. The 100uf Callins caps in my AR91's tested close like your 80's. The 24uf were way off. Interesting to see they are rated 50VDC. I went back with Mundorf E-Cap Plain. I would guess the 82uf and 22uf + 2.2uf in parallel might work. No problems with the lower voltage of these caps so far. I have never herd the 92's but yours are going to be exceptional with the wood veneer. Great acquisition.
  2. Briodo, you have turned those cabinets into a silk purse. They are looking excellent. How did you attach the crossover boards? Get those drivers installed and hook them up.
  3. If the tweeters and mid-range show DC resistance I would sell them separately. More value in parts than the whole speaker and much easier to ship. The cabinets, well maybe somebody in Indiana might want them.
  4. These always seem to have a problem with the venere on the backs. I need to replace the back venere on mine. I wonder if there is a special treatment after the venere is removed and backs sanded. Maybe some kind of shellac sealer?
  5. That is a fine looking AR 11 speaker pictured. I am glad you are enjoying them. I never get tired of listening to mine. The badge on yours appears to be from a AR11A model. The differences between the AR 11A and AR 11B were slight. Different woofers, tweeters and midranges. Different crossovers and different badges and stickers. Again the changes were very small. Sometimes AR had transitional examples because they used up existing parts during a model change. The AR 11B model had a silver screen over the midrange and a model sticker with serial numbers on the front baffle and plastic badges instead of brass badges. Also the crossover switches were in a slightly different layout. That's the easiest way for me to identify them.
  6. As far as the plain E caps verses the raw etched version I don't know the answer. The raw caps are physically smaller, cost less and have a higher voltage rating. I just go by the assumption that if it cost more it probably is better. A Lexus is going to drive better than a Hyundai. Maybe? Maybe not. Anything you use is probably going to be better than original caps. And as Kent has said earlier the lower voltage of the plain caps is probably sufficient. I have used all kinds of caps. I really like the Daytons (5% and 1%), Erse PluseX and other affordable caps. For some reason I am not a big fan of the Solen PB caps. I used Jantzen Superior 2.7uf and 3.3uf paralleled on the tweeter circuit of some 1969 AR3a's. Some Mundorf Supreme caps in AR2ax crossovers. That combination is probably crazy. Maybe I should of saved my money and went with Daytons, but I plan on keeping those speakers. You wont get your money back if planning on selling them. Currently I am on the Clarity CSA bandwagon. I have read that the CSA have a ESR that is closer to the original electrolytes. Also the mylar caps like the Carli are closer, but they are getting hard to find. Unless there is a big problem such as sibilance most caps will work fine. I have these CSA caps waiting to go into a set of AR3's as soon as I figure out what to do about the midranges. They have been matched by Parts Connexion. Someone suggested to me that they may be more relaxed than other caps. That is what I would want for some AR3's. Also I read that Clarity is one of the few manufactures that make their own capacitors. If you plan on going the CSA route I would either parallel two 2uf caps or a single 3.9uf with a 0.1 bypass cap. I personally would use a film cap on a tweeter circuit over a electrolytic. Hope this answers your questions. You really can't go wrong as long as the new caps are close to each other. In my opinion the condition of the drivers are going to make a bigger difference than any cap.
  7. I have used the Jantzen Audio Premium Elko Electrolytic 33uf and 6.8 uf caps wired in parallel for the 40uf cap. You can also use the Mundorf Ecap MLytic 70 in the same sizes. In fact they are the same caps manufactured in the same place. I also include a .01uf film and foil by-pas cap, but that is up to the individual user.
  8. I was driving to the grocery store two Saturdays ago and I pass a garage sale sign. In the spirit of social distancing I slowly pass by looking up the driveway I see two floorstanding speakers that appear to be Advent Prodigy's. Parking and putting on my mask I walk up to take a closer look. They weren't Advents at all, but had AR emblems. They were TSW 510 in relative nice shape. The homeowner said they were inherited from a uncle and there were two smaller bookshelf speakers (TSW 100) to go with them. This was the first pair of TSW speakers I have encountered in person. I knew they were from later on (1989), but they did say Teledyne Acoustic Research on them. Upon negotiation and after a major reduction in the asking price I loaded them into my SUV. Here they are back home. One of the small 100's is missing the Acoustic blanket around the tweeter. One of the woofers on the 510's is different, not a poly cone. I hooked them up to a sacrificial Lepai T-amp and Sony Walkman and they sounded pretty good. The paper coned woofer turned out to be a AB tech replacement. It had a DCR of 7.7 ohms. There was no gasket sealing the woofer in the cabinet. I removed the poly cone woofer and it had a DCR of 3.7 making it a 4 ohm driver. The TSW 510 is rated at 4 ohms. After re-installing the woofers with gasket tape and doing some listening I could not detect any differences in sound or volume from either woofer. How big of difference should a 4 ohm and 8 ohm speaker have? What will this mean to a amplifier? Should I look for the correct woofer? Thanks Larry
  9. Have you seen this thread dealing with ferrofluid replacement?
  10. I attempted to use those same Vishay 1837 bypass caps on a recap project but found the leads to be way to short. I wound up using the Parts Express Film and Foil bypass caps which have longer leads. I ordered some 20 AWG tinned copper wire from Remington Industries and plan on using it to extend the Vishay leads on my next recap project.
  11. Once you get the cabinets sanded I would use the Natural Watco Danish Finish. Be careful with the sanding especially at the edges. The venere is very thin and easy to sand thru. I would start with a 120 grit with light pressure and then go to a 180 or 240 grit. Here are some pictures of some AR2ax walnut speakers with five applications of Watco Natural finish.
  12. Welcome Mike123. Your grandfather left you some quiet desirable AR speakers. As far as I know foam surrounds were not used in AR speakers until 1968 with the introduction of the AR 5. AR 3 woofers used cloth surrounds and usually don't need replaced. Post some pictures of your woofers and someone can help identify them. And yes the caps are located inside the speaker box and probably should be replaced.
  13. Some original pots I cleaned up five years ago for some AR2ax's. After three plus years they started getting drop-outs. Subsequently they have been replaced with L-pads. L-pad installed in a AR4x crossover. This is not my picture or work. You can get these from suppliers like Parts Express and Madisound. On the left is a Ohmite RHS15 R and some ceramic potentiometers currently available on ebay and from others. They are electrically identical to the original aetna-pollack pots but far superior in construction and function. The AR3a restoration guide covers this subject in great detail. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/original_models_1954-1974/original_models_schematicss/restoring_the_ar-3a/
  14. I have used a Dremel tool with a small round brass brush. Over time I also came to the conclusion that I was wasting my time. There is not much you can do about pitted out disk and wipers. The L-pad or replacement pots are the way to go. Years ago I saw some solid state pots using small resisters and a rotary switch. Does anyone have information about these?
  15. Welcome Ableburger, Here are some related threads that may provide you information on your AR 6 speakers. Pictures of your speakers would be interesting to many of the members here.
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