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  3. The veneer used on US-made walnut ARs was American, aka, Eastern, black walnut (Juglans nigra). None of the AR drawings we have actually specify what walnut to use, so likely the choice was simply based on the fact that this is the most common and therefore the least expensive walnut available in the US. If European-made ARs used domestic walnut, it would probably be English/French Juglans regia. However, American black walnut was and still is exported worldwide and is more common, so it's entirely possible that a cabinet made outside the US might still have used it. Either way, your chances of finding a perfect match for 40-year-old walnut in new wood are pretty low. Your best bet might be to use the most grain-light piece you can find and then use a graining pen to feather it into the old wood.
  4. Sorry, I forgot to reply to your second question regarding the colored Danish oil. I would try it out on the bottom surface of one of your speakers to see how it looks. If it looks good, finish the rest of the speaker with it. If it doesn't, no real harm done since few are likely to see it. You can then consider another option, such as linseed oil. I have never worked with it, but I know that others on the forum have had success with it.
  5. My USA made A-11A's & my USA made AR-11B's have an American walnut veneer. Since your pair were made in England, my guess is that they used European walnut. That being said, even if you get the correct veneer you may have to stain it to get it match the existing veneer. In my case, I had to re-veneered the bottom faces of a pair of AR-11A's. The top and sides of the speakers had a American walnut veneer, but when I sanded it down I discovered that it was slightly redder in color than the new Walnut veneer. Since it was the bottom of the cabinet, and would be seldom seen, I didn't bother trying to precisely match the color. I later experimented a leftover piece of the new veneer and found that I could very closely match the color of the existing veneer, if I applied a light cherry stain to the new veneer before applying Danish oil finish.
  6. They wisely played the words here, but leads the customer to wrong conclusion. I would not buy them solely because of this misleading sentence: uses acoustic suspension design principles made famous by founder Henry Kloss
  7. I got those speakers like almost 10 years a go, but somehow they never managed to get their turn. The previous owner did not loved them enough it seams. The cabinets are lousily stained and the drivers were fixed/sealed with a silicone glue!!! - while removing the drivers parts of the material chipped off: And finally today I began with sanding. It's a real pain to remove the stain, even with a sander. Uncovered is now the reason for staining I believe: Tomorrow I will get some veneer, so the main issue I have now is what type of veneer is this? American Walnut? European Walnut? Here's some better pictures after sanding: The drivers were also in pretty bad shape, the masonite ring was lost on the bass driver, the tweeter was destroyed because of overtightening... it's all now fixed and they are just waiting for the cabinets (and maybe caps replacement also): One bass driver fixed: Both fixed: Applying the armature and layers of plastic on the broken tweeters: And this is the result: I apologize for posting so many pictures, I hope you guys don't mind... In case you missed my question, could you please tell me what is the type of veneer used on AR-11B's (those were Made in England). Thank you all! p.s. One more thing - I only have Colron's Danish Oil in Jacobean Dark Oak color. Here, where I am, it's impossible to find Danish Oil and I also had in Neutral color but not anymore. Am I going to ruin them with this colored Danish Oil?
  8. Thanks, I'll give it a try, just the mental barrier of paying more for the postage than the item. Any thoughts on the type of cloth to use? Polyester was my guess so that it doesn't age too quickly.
  9. The first cartridge I used in the XA was an Empire 999VE. Sounded harsh….just couldn’t get it right. Then to the Stanton….Like night and day. I recall the Shure V15 was the popular choice back in the day. I don’t recall what prompted me to the Stanton. Interesting note about the monies….The cartridge was equal money to the turntable 75.00 each. Then of course I bit the bullet twice on the cartridges!
  10. Where can I get parts for the PWB panel inside the S112P subwoofer?
  11. Man that's a lot of tweeters! I don't know much about Bozaks but your post piqued my interest. Found a thread with an email address for Pat Tobin, who is apparently "probably the greatest expert on Bozak speakers". The thread's from 2006 but maybe the email is still valid: https://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/tobin-mods-to-bozak-302a-urban-speakers-definitely-worth-it.75950/ Good luck! Kent
  12. A hardened surround is more painful. Roy's sealant is tried and tested and works.
  13. Last week
  14. The tweeters are another story…. the two way tweeters are cooled with ferrofluid and the three ways with silicone grease and should not be interchanged Bill
  15. Hi Chris, The Allison dome midrange can be used in A1, A2, A3, A8,Cd8,A9 And IC20 (I think I got All of them!) Depending upon the vintage, some modifications are needed to accommodate the leads. That depends on internal or external with those old brass pins.
  16. Yes that original arm was prone to hum and resonance issues. After years of storage my XA did not fair well and was negated to last years trash pile. I did however, rescue the Stanton 681EEE-S that was on board and turned it over to an electrical engineer professor friend of mine who in turn, transplanted the thing into his player. Turns out by checking out EBAY that cartridge still has good value and quite a following. It sure as hell looks sweeter in his machine than it did in mine!
  17. Thanks!!! I was minutes away from buying the Permatex. I'll have a look at the Vintage-AR sealant but unfortunately I'm in Europe so the shipping is bound to be painful.
  18. I've heard that you can use the mids and tweeters regardless of model between the Allison Models 1, 2 and 3. How about other models? Could I use the mids and tweeters from a CD-8 in an Allison 2? Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions! Chris
  19. I've heard that you can use the mids and tweeters regardless of model between the Allison Models 1, 2 and 3. How about other models? Could I use the mids and tweeters from a CD-8 in an Allison 2? Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions! Chris
  20. NO!!!! Permatex will eventually harden and ruin the speaker. That recommendation slipped through the editing process before it was thoroughly tested over the long term. The only thing to use is RoyC’s goo, sold on eBay by “Vintage AR”
  21. I had the mods done ... I got the table stock from my Dad with a Shure M44 cartridge. I had hum issues with the stock arm and was going to have to rewire the arm. At that time, I didn't have the experience to do a rewire, and I was encouraged to consider a new arm. Found a steal on a used "bad wire" Rega arm and had it sent to Johnnie at Audio Origami for a wire and other custom stuff like the brass stub and counterweight ... I wanted that as a nod to the original counterweight. As for the darker wood being the original wood color ... I know there are a few ways I can approach the finish, but I'll choose the best solution to achieve originality. My normal finishes include shellac (hand mix blonde flakes), lacquer, danish oil, or in some cases Howard's Feed N Wax works wonders.
  22. That dark circle gives you a pretty good idea of what the original tone of the cabinets was, in case your restoration plans include any wood refinishing work. For not being an "audio guy," your dad seems to have made quite an investment in a modded AR turntable.
  23. There is nothing I can think of regarding the 2ax that someone here doesn’t have an answer for. I’m sure you’ll find out what you need in short order. It’s a little scary when I think how long it’s been since I let the 2ax go! 44 years! To put that into perspective I had problems with those potentiometers only around a year or two after getting them brand new. So my hats off to guys who are handy and knowledgeable to fix here in the 21st century. I never knew what the drivers looked like behind those stapled grills until I got involved here! Bill
  24. I'm curious about the mid's ... all I see is a "sponge", and I don't hear about people discussing those. I'll look around the forum to see if I can find threads that are helpful, but feel free to post links.
  25. Haha, well, yes. I stopped using the weight and removed the poly/cork mat to go for a thinner rubber/cork mat from Pathewings. These pics are from different iterations. I installed a Merrill motor in it using the wall wart, and it runs nice. I have installed the new Hurst 3001-001 motor and it works just dandy.
  26. That turntable looks “futuristic” compared to my 1969 XA! I think that weight on your platter would have been heavy enough to stop that little midget motor that drove mine! LOL
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