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  1. Today
  2. Hi everyone this video just showed up on my YouTube channel this morning does anyone think Vox international would have any interest in a lawsuit
  3. Hi, In case anybody is still watching this thread.... I have a pair of AL-115s and stumbled on this site/thread when checking to see what the part number for the tweeter is, in case I need another in the future. I thought I had blown one of mine but managed to fix it. The problem wasn't down in the voice coil itself but, rather, the wires extending through the dome and to the solder points. It seems that the black, tar-like goo that they run through is corrosive and after so many years, the wire simply rusted open. Using my multi-meter, the tweeter measured as "open". The the wires looked kinda green where they went in and out of that black goo-covered channel that runs under the wire mesh cage. So I dug around the wire cage (same black goo), pried it off, dug out the wires and measured further in on both sides, where the wires protrude out of the dome. THAT measured fine (3.5 ohms, if I recall correctly). I clipped off the corroded parts and soldered in a half inch length of very thin magnet wire (single strand, varnish covered wired for motor windings) that I had laying around... scraping the varnish off both ends, of course. It works fine now!. It wasn't TOO difficult to fix but pretty tedious work. I've attached a picture of the repaired tweeter. If you look closely through the cage, you can see the "loop" of the old wires, soldered to the new length of magnet wire that I re-routed through the channel and sealed with RTV. I sure hope the RTV isn't corrosive, but if I get another 10 years out of them, I'll be more than happy. So... if you think your tweeter suddenly blew, and you haven't been abusing it with really loud music, maybe it's the same issue as with mine. It's definitely worth checking those lead wires. - Kayaker2001
  4. Yesterday
  5. Complete! And sounding great. Now to clean those albums I have been holding onto all these years... Thanks to everyone for the great help on this project. You all are a nice group and you have really helped me make this possible. Here are two boring shots of the finished speakers. I kinda don't mind the random hole in the fabric sock, or the water stains and wear on the tops. Keep on Rockin!
  6. I knew i would get some great answers from this, Nice! Once that AR bug gets you lol
  7. About 10 years ago we downsized for retirement. I sold off several pairs of speakers and consolidated the remaining ones into one multichannel HT system. With AR-3a as the front speakers, AR-2ax as the rears and AR-1ms as center channels I am now listening to all my remaining AR speakers at the same time.
  8. I have drivers and am working on installing them. Many thanks go out to DavidR for the replacement AR drivers. Besides doing a great job on packaging and working with me to get them delivered safely, he took the time to mark the color codes on the driver terminals. That has been a good reassurance and guide. Thanks! I thought it would be easy enough to reassemble... BUT... at some point someone hacked big holes in wood where the tweeters go. Ugh. I got big gaping holes around the tweeter and almost Nowhere to screw them down. I am doing some bondo work and some creative mounting to compensate. Also giving all the terminal connectors a good look over as i found one that was coming off.
  9. I believe some 3s had Masonite frames but be that as it may, there are 2 options for refreshing the grilles. One would be to use the Wichelt 18 count linen in "lambswool" color from 123 Stitch, as described in the AR-3a restoration guide. The other would be to use the original Mellotone plastic. It is still manufactured but to buy from Mellotone requires buying a large roll. IIRC there is an outfit in Canada that sells smaller pieces: https://qcomponents.ca/Mellotone/ It's a little tricky to work with. When I did my grilles I didn't get good tight creases around the edges--should have used a hair dryer. The linen is definitely easier to work with but not as authentic. Mellotone DF7022 is correct. I have some reproduction "3" and "AR" badges. Here is the 3 on Mellotone. PM me if interested. Kent
  10. I have ar-9, ar-90, ar-92, ar-6, ar-mst-1, ar-3A Improved, ar-LST Favorite for home listening is LST easily. Party Speaker ar-9
  11. Last week
  12. One mid/woofer and one tweeter left.
  13. It's difficult to put a value on them if they can't be auditioned. There's no way of telling if the ferrofluid in some of the drivers has dried up. Certainly the crossover components will need replacing but that's not a big deal.
  14. I have 2 pair of AR9, AR90, AR91, AR10PI and I gave my son a pair of TSW610 (they ain't no slouch, its the mids that lack the most.) The 9's get listened to more on my SS gear vs the 90's. The 91 and 10Pi get swapped frequently on my tube gear. Hoping my son will take the 90's some day. Then I still have a pair of Bose 901_II w/ a modified EQ that gets duty for movies and some Sunday morning music.
  15. I have AR9's, AR90's, AR915's and AR48's. I prefer the AR9's by a large margin. They are driven by 200 wpc Lexicon amps...I wouldn't consider anything less as these speakers seem to need to be played loud in order to flourish. Of course, when listening in surround sound I get to use the 9's, 90's and an 915 as well! Occasionally, I'll swivel the chair around and listen to just the AR90's. I haven't listened to the 48's in years.
  16. And the answer is 'Yes' and Vicious-Poodle has created THE SUNFIRE TRUE SUBWOOFER SIGNATURE 12 EARTHQUAKE SOUND HYBRID MONSTER!!!! MWAHAHAHAHAHAHAH (Lightning crackel and thunder crash!) So, about two weeks ago, I purchased on EBay, a used Sunfire 12 inch Signature with a bad amp plate for under $400 in piano black. I always wanted one and that price was a steal. When it arrived, I swapped in the plate from my 10 inch Sunfire Mk II. I was horrified to hear a terrible Death Rattle in the passive radiator. All my research showed no one sells a replacement and the odds of finding used body parts for the 12 incher are slim. I took out the PR and tried rubberized epoxy where the rubber meets the wood disk, glued around the center weight, tried everything, and still the Death Rattle. What to do. And I don't take no for an answer. While watching TV I had an epiphany: The Earthquake Sound Supernova 12 looks and works a lot like this Sunfire. Maybe that passive radiator can be bought and fit in? A search on Ebay showed that there is indeed an Earthquake Sound 12 inch passive radiator for sale. The one closest in size is the SLAPS M-12. Looking at the specs, the cut out needs to be about 1/8th inch larger. The SLAPS technology is better tech than the original passive radiator. There is no spider, glued on disk, heavy center weight that can rattle and cause issues. And it's very affordable! (The original seller on Ebay paid for it! How nice is that?) With a huge wood file in hand (see photo), I enlarged the opening enough for it to fit in snugly. Took about an hour w/ interruptions. The bolt pattern is identical to the original so no new drilling of holes is needed. All the hexagonal bolts were replaced and tightened (one bolt was stripped so I used a larger screw and nut in its place.) Everything was nice and tight so it was time to give it a try. I was beyond amazed! I did a frequency response sweep and there was huge output you feel at 20 HZ diminishing to an unbelievable 14 HZ. The SLAP-12 has like 3 or 4 inches of excursion. Where the Jurrasic World trailer would crash my Sunfire 10's, this monster had no issues. The bass was awesome. It could even do that 16HZ organ piece (Symphony No. 3 (Saint-Saëns). Since this is a better passive radiator than the original, I ordered a SLAPS M-10 for my MK II Sunfire. I think that might even fit in with less filing. I will let you know how that works and if it improves the performance. (Right now these 20+ year old subwoofers seem to easily get over-driven on new material. My theory is it's the passive radiator.) So, everyone, there is a replacement passive radiator for your Sunfire Signature 12. I will let you know in another week, if the same can be done for the 10 inch model. Best wishes and stay safe! V.P.
  17. My first choice is my pair of AR-9Lsi’s powered by a McIntosh MC7270 power amp. Both the amp and the speakers are over 30 years old, but as I have said in previous posts that there are few speakers on the market today that can compete with them. My wife on the other hand prefers listening to our AR-11’s that are in our small theater room. I think that her opinion is influenced buy the La-Z-Boy rocker centered between the speakers.
  18. I bet that sounds great! I've tried a 500C and other low powered tube amps with AR3's and 3a's and very much enjoyed the experience. I finally decided that for full time listening I preferred a bigger amp for my 3a's(which is the speaker I listen to the most, although I do enjoy my KLH Model Five's as well) so am using a a McIntosh MC2105. But I didn't want to give up tubes entirely so have a McIntosh C20 preamp driving the 2105, and the combination is just right for me.
  19. So these are 3a grills with the linen material. One of my sets has these, obviously replaced.. The 3 grills are a completely different material called Saran. It’s actually a plastic weave, and the frames are plastic.
  20. Send the mids to Roy. See what he says. Regarding the woofers, you will not find cloth surrounds in the wild. You need to get the complete woofers. The cabs finish And color is up to you, but natural color watcos is what I’ve used on all the restorations I’ve done, and sometimes I mix in medium or dark walnut color where color matching is required. Glenn
  21. I'm curious , this question is for multiple AR speaker owners. What do you find yourself listening to most? Maybe another way to put this is what combination power and AR speakers pleases you the most. For me it is a Fisher 400 and a set of AR 3's. There is certainly not enough power to bring out there full potential but there is something about that combination that pleases me to no end. Once the Fisher is good and warm after a half hour or so there is a warmth that comes through That I have come to love. I either play a old Pioneer elite pd-65 or a AR-ES1 turntable. Either way it leaves me satisfied every time. Funny that a 1966 Receiver and a 1965 speaker can sound that good. What about others?
  22. It takes more than just peroxide. It's a process called "retrobrighting". Google it and you'll find info. I used "40 Volume Creme Developer" and OxyClean, put it in a clear plastic bag out in the sun for days. The plastic got pretty white. I've read that the laundry brightener to use is TAED. Dunno whether that's in Oxy. Also don't know if there is a better product than the 40 Volume Creme Developer. But do a search. The black pebble finish is PlastiKote Truck Bed Liner https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041DK44O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  23. Hi Kent, I appreciate your follow up. After moving 2/3rds of the way across country last summer and some health issues this year I'm way behind on several projects. One of those being the Advent restoration. ButI want to complete that so I can use it in the kitchen while fixing meals. When I saw your photos I was going to ask about the black paint you apparently used on yours. That looks good. But then re-reading a couple of previous posts on applying peroxide suggests I should try that first. If not successful then the black paint would be my next choice. Either color will match where I'll place it. Now to get going on things! ;^)
  24. Here's another twist on my Advent 400 mods. One of my speakers was dead. Kaput. So I looked for a drop-in replacement. Found a guy on ebay selling a pair of Wharfedale 5.5" mids for a reasonable price and they fit the bolt pattern. They turned out to be nice drivers but a little dull for the radio. Probably really mid-woofers and not truly full-range. I happened to have one orphan "Apex Jr." tweeter left over from another project. They are no longer available but at a buck apiece I'd ordered a spare. Had to mount it behind the plastic baffle otherwise it would not clear the metal grille. I used a file to chamfer the edge of the plastic, sort of like a very thin wave guide. I considered running the mid/woofer full out and just adding a capacitor to the tweeter but Roy suggested a coil on the woofer. Sorted through the parts box and didn't find anything that seemed right so I got a generic 2-way crossover from PE. There were some nicer ones at a lower price on ebay but I didn't want to wait for shipping from China. The PE xo worked well. I did add a small paper-in-oil bypass cap just for fun. Have not done much A/B comparison with an original speaker because my Advent 400 radios are in the shop but I think this was successful. Kent
  25. Hello all, Over the last few months I have been noticing that my left speaker has been becoming dull. Initially blaming it on room acoustics and my ears, Ive decided to investigate the issue. It turns out that the left tweeter is "seized " and has very little movement compared to the other one. So I pulled out my spare tweeters(older) and discovered that one of them exhibits the same difference in movement. So I have used the "good ones" from the pair and used them for now. But I still hear a mild difference. As in the image sort of shift to the better tweeter especially in recording with female voices. Also the silver outer of the tweeter now don't match and the paper colour is slightly different and this is driving me nuts! So I want to go ahead and do an all out restoration on both the pair. What would you advice me to do? Turn it in to a professional ? Or try the DIY method? If there is professional who can do a great job on this, I don't mind shipping them to the US or UK (I'm from India). Theses speakers are very dear to me and hold a lot of sentimental value. So I don't mind spending some monies on them! Any pointer to the professional who can do this or a DIY kit would be highly appreciated ! Many Thanks, Sudhir
  26. Unfortunately, I am not aware of any. Roy
  27. Roy c I thought as much I remember the woofers were very soft and loose originally,so yes I think the spiders and surrounds are wrong if I’m unable to find AR 4x woofers is there a modern woofer that could be applicable?
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