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  2. Thanks ligs: The cap looks too new to be factory so they might have been added by the previous owner. Lonny
  3. the speaker with the woofer on the LHS has the replaced woofer - it's working fine. the speaker above, with woofer on the RHS, is the one that sounds like it's dragging. It sure looks like a cloth surround to me. I guess I could try rebuilding, but I'd be just as happy to simply replace it with a new one/ ok - new to me. aren't all the replacement surrounds foam? I guess I could try - since it isn't working now, all I'd be out is the cost of the surround. and yes - the 'new woofer' has the dome over voice coil. my original that is dragging does not have the voice coil dome.
  4. Today
  5. I would remove the 15 v caps, since you plan to use your own filters. BTW, from the KLH 5 crossover schematic, I did not see any 5 Mf 15V capacitor connected in the woofer circuit. Usually when a cap is used in a speaker crossover, the voltage rating is typically 50v or higher. George
  6. Reconing these old speakers is risky. In the wrong hands the speaker will change character. Correct surrounds are low risk and do not change the character. If you have new surrounds then you could hear rubbing because the voice coil was not centered when installed. It is also possible the voice coils were damaged before new surrounds were applied. Of course, if you had to remove staples to see the woofer it is unlikely these have ever been repaired and what appears as intact surround is actually quite weak and about to disintegrate. Are you inclined to do your on work? If so download and review the AR3a restoration guide. Much of it applies to the AR2ax. Photos of front and rear of each cab with grills off will be helpful.
  7. ok - I know you can add new surrounds. although I'm not sure I trust them to not change the character. I have some professionally reconed JBL E-120s - which are great nos, but these reconed ones are audibly different. I'll get you pictures. The woofer that's giving me grief now has a perfectly good surround - but the voice coil is dragging. If there's a fix for that, it's well beyond me. and thanks. appreciate your help - all of you
  8. DonQ

    PRO 31anyone?

    Yes, they are ported. I cant even remember when I got them, but owned forever. They are currently sitting on top of Snell Ds, and honestly sound great except obviously dont go as low. I guess I will open them up and what's inside, maybe recap if needed. But they are very clean sounding still. Amazed barely any pops with Google search. Cheers, RQ
  9. JKent

    PRO 31anyone?

    Welcome Don Nothing here because those are not "classic" KLH. The brand was started in the '50s, sold to Singer in the '70s, then to Kyocera, then I'm not sure. Maybe Jensen. Anyway, the classics were made in Cambridge MA and were acoustic suspension. Yours are post-Singer and I believe they're bass reflex (big hole in the back?) If you like them, enjoy them. But they're not Classic KLH. Kent
  10. Hello Speaker freaks: I received my KLH 5 woofers (and xo's) today, checked the VC's 4.1 ohms ,frequency sweep from 0 to 1000 sounded smooth . These speakers look new except for the sloppy re soldering job. These cones are the thickest and stiffest material I've seen. Looks like the cloth surround's and dust caps need to be resealed . Ok now for the questions, the speakers came with 5 Mf 15v caps soldered across the + - terminals, as I am not using the KLH 5 crossovers should I keep them or remove them ??? I will be using off the shelf lowpass filters 350 hz 12 dB slope. I had to drop my wood at a cabinet maker to get cut because I don't have the tools or room to cut a 4x8 sheet down, I should be able to pick it up next week. Till next time... Lonny
  11. DonQ

    PRO 31anyone?

    Cant's seem to find any info here on these...had them forever, wondering what's inside. The library list doesn't even have them...
  12. Yesterday
  13. hi - my friend (and doc of the last 20 years) had to move to southern cal and asked me to sell his advent speakers - the original model. They need new foam surrounds. I am a speaker guy (you can google mike klasco) and know the advent product well. By the way, the green vs. red color is due to the change in laquaer which also resulted in more highs - so your pair is not matched... it was a running change and not a model # change. Advent promoted "stacked advents" for bass extension - as over most of the range you would get about 2+ dB increase in sensitivity but at the last bottom half octave this increases to +5 dB (so instead of power they add in phase where the wavelengths are larger). With the avaialble pumping power and the sealed boxes you can really EQ the response down to below 20 Hz. also have the much later advent powered sub if interested make me an offer Mike mike@menloscientific.com
  14. Well, to my ears, the best switch setting is P Greco woofer (all on left), -6 mid and tweeter at -3 respectively. I think the sound is close to that of the AR3a, with better or higher high range output.
  15. Not too sure on value. They sound great to me, all original other than the fact that I have removed both grilles to glue woofer frame back on, Removed all of the staples and replaced with velcro. Also selling a Marantz 1070 stereo console amp. Would sell everything for $800 cash plus shipping or pickup in Dutchess County, NY. Open to offers I guess. Moved to a smaller space and no room to let these things run.
  16. Last week
  17. Vee, your 2ax speakers could have up to three different woofers. The early cloth surround woofer in the middle, the large frame transitional foam surround woofer to the left and the later small frame foam surround woofer to right. Lets identify what you have and go from there.
  18. For 4 ohm operation: Woofer 4Pi, Mid 0dB, T 0dB 8 ohm: Woofer - 2Pi, Mid -3db, T -3db 16 ohm: Woofer Pi, Mid -6dB, T -6dB
  19. There isn't a problem The manual says "4 to 16 ohms dependant on switch positions" I just like to know in what position to set the switches for 4, 8 or 16ohm
  20. You might want to slow down and post some pictures of your speakers with grills off. Are you aware that you yourself can easily repair woofers in most cases?
  21. thank you, Aadams. I had them connected to my NAD receiver - so when one channel died, after buzzing sounds, I assumed speaker. Eventually, swapping everything, I found that my NAD somehow, for some reason, lost the right channel. I swapped in a Jolida, and viola - it's working. More or less - the buzz is still there. Sounds like the voice coil on the woofer is dragging. No, I found these at a church sale; they had not been opened up before - I had a heck of a time getting the woofer unsealed to look inside. But anyway, I need a replacement woofer now. What's the best source, this side of ebay? Or - I can start a new thread. Either way, thanks
  22. I don't see the problem, the three switches still serve to attenuate the three speakers to make them uniform correctly to the environment and to the type of listening you prefer. They are not used to have a conformable speaker from 4 to 16 ohms, but to change the delivery and perception of sound. Then you can match an amplifier that works well with all the loads produced by the AR10PII. If with high power the better.
  23. A very late hit to an old thread, but for posterity (and future searchers just like me): I'm running stacked Advent NLA's using two identical amplifiers, B&K Reference 125.2. These are conservatively rated at 125 wpc. While one would probably handle the Advents in parallel if not driven too hard, and despite that these amps are high-current designs, the MOSFET finals are not really happy with speaker load impedance dipping down into the 2's, so I decided to use the additional amp. But when feeding two amps, phasing is important. If you use Y connectors from a preamp--no worries. But if you use two outputs from preamps that have multiple outputs, be aware that some are phase-delayed, especially if they are routed differently through things like tone controls. Also, it's best to run identical amps so that there are no subtle phase cancellations. I'm running one amp out of the "bypass" outputs on my Adcom GFP565 preamp, and the other out of the "lab" outputs. One of them runs through the tone controls and the other does not. The preamp has a tone defeat feature, and when the tone controls are defeated, everything stays in phase and the system sounds extremely good even with my suboptimal speaker placement. When the tone controls are not defeated, phase cancellation gives the same effect as one channel being wired backwards. When working on Advents, make SURE the drivers are wired in the same phase as they were originally. It's not always obvious. I used foam rolls from Midwest Speaker repair for all four woofers, and I did have to source three new NLA tweeters, including one for my original pair of utility cabinets which I bought in 1977. One woofer in the deluxe cabinet pair I bought more recently had been "refoamed" prior to purchase, but the voice coil was dragging at some frequencies, so be aware that the effects of home improvement are not uncommon with used Advents. I replaced all my crossover caps with Dayton Audio precision caps bought from Parts Express. I did not change values, and the BSC did not sound better to me. Rick "for posterity" Denney
  24. "4 to 16 ohms dependant on switch positions"
  25. I think that everyone is overthinking this. The 10π’s specs show that the its nominal impedance is between 4 ohms and 8 ohms (see full specs below). I couldn't see where 16 ohms is ever listed. It is possible that its impedance could peak to as high as 16 ohms, but it would still have a nominal impedance of between 4 ohms and 8 ohms. Almost every speaker’s impedance peaks above its nominal rating at multiple points over the audio spectrum. A case in point is my daughter’s AR-98Ls speakers. In January 1985 Audio Magazine reviewed the AR-98Ls. Their tests showed that for most of the audio spectrum the impedance of the 98Ls remained between 3 ohms and 5 ohms (confirming the nominal 4-ohm rating). It did, however, rise up above 5 ohms a few times with the highest peak being 12 ohms at 30hz. Her vintage Pioneer SA-7500 has no problem powering those speakers. The same would be true if it or any other well-made £500 or even $500 solid state or tube amp, rated at both 4-ohms & 8-ohms, was used to power the AR-10π. This would be true regardless of how the 10π’s switches are set. Again, I think you should set your 10π’s switches to give you the best listening experience. For the best bass response, the π switch setting should logically be based on the placement of the speaker in your room. For what it’s worth, I own the AR-11, which is basically an AR-10π without the π switch and the accompanying additional crossover circuitry. My speakers are placed in a 2π position. In my room, they sound the best to me with the midrange switch set to -3 db and the high range switch set to 0 db. My wife thinks that they are a little bright at this setting, but not unpleasantly so.
  26. What year manufacture? Have you owned this pair from new? If so is the first time they have ever been opened? Does the problem move when you swap the left/right channel speaker wires either at the amp or the speakers? Photos, grills off, of the speaker fronts and backs could be helpful. Adams
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