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  2. For NPE caps YES. I recapped my AR90s that had been sounding dull. Most of the upper range caps tested well within the +/- 10%. The ESR was quite high. The change was remarkable.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Hi Kent & Rick, Thanks for your answers.Kent what do you mean by a light thin cloth ?Ihear that baking paper could give good results...
  5. Been there done that 🤨 I would suggest a very small patch of light thin cloth applied to the back of the cloth surround using Roy's surround sealant. Then apply a light coating of the sealant to both surrounds. It's available on ebay from seller Vintage-AR. If you don't want to do that, a very small glob of some kind of glue, as Rick suggested, may do. Put it on the back. Something like Goop or Shoe Goo or E6000 would work. Maybe rubber cement. I'm not sure about white glue. It's water based and "may" harden and come loose with all that flexing. Or it may work. Kent
  6. There are two parameters of importance for capacitors. The obvious one is capacitance value. The other is equivalent series resistance (ESR). A change in capacitance value will impact the crossover frequency. For a first order filter, it takes a large capacitance value change to create an audible null or peak in the frequency response. A change in ESR will attenuate the tweeter volume for a high pass filter. Generally, changes in ESR will be more audible than capacitance value changes. Too high of an ESR causes the speaker to sound muffled, as if a blanket is thrown over the speaker. If ESR is to be tested, the test meter must use a frequency in the audio range for the test to be meaningful. To answer your question, it is possible to have a cap that test within spec for capacitance value but out of spec for ESR. Such a cap needs to be replaced. To test a cap, it needs to be removed from the circuit first. At that point, why waste time testing except for intellectual curiosity. Once the cap is removed from the circuit, you might just as well put in a new one. If you want to test, a better test is done with a real time analyzer (RTA) to check the FR of the speaker. I play noise and use a phone app to check the FR of my speakers. For simple checks, the phone app is fine, but a proper RTA and mic would be best. Using a phone or RTA is a simple, objective way to determine if there are any unusual nulls or peaks or attenuation. It also allows for easy verification of operation of any switches or pots in the crossover circuit.
  7. You should get several answers to this question. If small enough a small “glop” of white wood glue might be enough. Please wait for more answers.
  8. Hi Everybody, i was finishing the recap of my klh 6 speakers when unfortunately i made a hole of a screwdriver size on the woofer,the hole is very very small so i was asking if that needs to be repaired and how? You can see the damage in the picture. Thanks for your answers ,Manel
  9. I have a pair of Allison LC110s from the late 80s. One tweeter died (no sound, although it looks fine), while the other is slightly crushed in the dome, but still works. I did find a replacement from said “major auction site” for one, which works great. I have since found a replacement for the other from an automotive audio company, the same as what Stubotny posted, the ACD-2. This has the grill. When hooked up, it hardly produces any sound. I suspect this model is incompatible with the LC110, perhaps because it is for an automotive system? Thank you in advance for your help. Chris
  10. Thank you Adams. Good recommendation. Also thanks to AR55. I'm trying to find a good gasket tape here in Germany. Your recommendation to reduce the roughness of the cabinet recess is good
  11. Be careful. The tweeters have plastic flanges and maybe these mids also. If they have never been removed the hardened sealant can make driver removal difficult and damage from too much force is easy. If all you are concerned about is leaks, you can push in a bead of duct seal around the circumference of the mids and tweeters. Deal with the woofer seal and stuffing first. You probably don't have leaks around the other drivers. I recommend not removing them unless there is a good reason, in which case it is definitely better to use gasket tape for re installation. Adams
  12. Thank you all for your replies. Regarding the tightness check JKent, I tried the check pushing the caps with the well working speakers and the problem speakers and did not notice a big difference between them. But I will pay more attention to the stuffing and the tightness of the cabinets and sealing surface between the woofer and the cabinet. Your recommendations about reducing air leakage make sense and I'm happy to hear that the woofer itself are not the root cause. I will change to the foam tape to seal all the drivers, check the contact surface of the cabinets and try to get new stuffing to refill the cabinets. Thanks a lot for your support, we stay in contact
  13. Your speakers are indeed the original Advent speaker, now referred to as OLAs. The naked tweeters, no cage, along with the low serial numbers show that these are early production. The foam woofer surrounds look intact and most likely they have been replaced as the originals would almost certainly have disintegrated by now. It raises the question as to whether the crossovers may have been recapped at the same time the woofer surrounds were replaced. You will need to remove a woofer from the cabinet to access the crossover. If the original electrolytic capacitors are still in place replacing them would be a very good idea. These are a great find, enjoy.
  14. Please excuse the cross-post with AudioKarma > Speakers. Wanted to get an audience of Advent folks to have a look, and much appreciated! From my father-in-law who was the original owner. Kept in his living room (same house) all of their lives.Roughly 25" tall x 11.5" deep x 14 1/4 wide with a beveled edge finish around the front / speaker grille. Serial numbers 6835 and 8482 with switch on metal plate in back. Foam is in amazing shape around the 10" speaker and I am pretty sure he never had these in the shop. I am going to do a mild facelift on these and plug them in (not in that order...).
  15. I have an AR-2ax from 1971 with the wider 11” diameter frame, 6 screws and a foam surround. The bass response is reasonably good. About the same as my AR-14. I noticed in your photo that the particle board in the cabinet recess looks pretty rough. When I removed the woofer from my 2ax to replace the surround, the sealing putty that AR used pulled some of particle board with it, leaving a pitted surface. Before I reinstalled the woofer, I patched (DAP plastic wood) and sanded the particle board in the recess to give me a fairly non-pitted surface. Also, I made sure all residue was removed from the back of the woofer frame, before I applied the foam tape. I got my foam tape from Parts Express (https://www.parts-express.com/speaker gasketing tape).
  16. Last week
  17. There is no practical difference in the bass performance and the cap is not part of this problem. Assuming you have compared the bass of this pair with your other 2ax pairs in the same position, it could be the surrounds but I would be thinking first about the gasket seal around the woofer and your stuffing. You seem to have a blend of glass fiber and polyfil. They are interchangeable but not ounce for ounce and if you have too much of either it will overdamp the bass. As I recall from a RoyC post, you should have around 22 ounces of glass fiber or 16 ounces of polyfil in the 2ax. There is no rule of thumb for blending the two materials in the same cabinet. If your seal around any of the drivers is not air tight it can degrade bass performance. It looks like you have scrapped away most of the sealant around the woofer hole. Try using foam sealing tape if you can obtain it, otherwise the duct seal material works just as well but less forgiving to remove and replace especially with chipboard baffles. Check the other drivers for air leaks around the edges when you do the push test on the woofer after it is intalled. The only leaks in the cabinet should be around the pot stems. Adams
  18. Well couple of questions. What kind of cap and how and what did you use to test them?
  19. Thanks for your feedback JKent and Aadams. I'm happy to be part of this AR community The woofers are the 10'' with bigger outer diameter and 6 holes, but no cloth surrounds. And yes the surrounds were replaced before I bought the speakers, and I guess the foam used is too hard so that the travel of the woofer is somehow limited. You are right with the capacitor, they are original and should be replaced after so many years...but this seems not to be the root cause for the different bass sound. The other 2ax I have have also the original capacitor and sound much different. Do you know if these early woofers with the 6 holes sound different than the later 10'' with 4 holes?
  20. Is there any reason to change a capacitor when it's value it still within 10%.
  21. Oh. Those pictures are new. Obviously not cloth surrounds. btw, that old wax capacitor should be replaced.
  22. Did you mean to say the cloth surrounds have been replaced on the problem woofers?
  23. Welcome Jose The early 2ax woofer was the cast aluminum frame/cloth surround type. The sealant on the cloth surround may have become dry and as a result the surrounds may be porous. If they are, the speaker is no longer air-tight and the bass response will suffer. Try this: Put your thumb and 2 fingers around the dust cap, like a tripod, and push the woofer cone in. Let go and the cone should return slowly. If it pops right back ut, you have a leak and it may be the surrounds. Are you in this country? There is only one sealant that is right for these surrounds. It's made by Classic Speaker Pages member RoyC and sold by ebay seller Vintage-AR. Try the test and let us know what happens. Kent
  24. I'm new in this site and hope this topic was not discussed already. If so, please give me a hint in which thread. Thanks!! I am very pleased to be part of the community worldwide enjoying the same affinity for these exceptional speakers. Sorry if my English is not good, I hope good enough to communicate with you and understand each other well I have three pairs of 2ax, two of them working and sounding very well. They are become important to me, I spend hours every week enjoying music with this great speakers The third 2ax pair on speakers is an early model, I guess 1969-1970 with a 6 hole 10'' woofer (bigger outer diameter circa 11'') The cabinets of this third pair are in very good condition, and so the drivers. All drivers are basically working but the warm, deep and very pleasent to hear topical AR bass is missing in these speakers. If I compare the bass response of them with the others with the 10'' woofers and 4 holes, they are by far not so good. I checked the crossover, everything looks original and fine. Potentiometers are not the originals but look and work fine. I did not checked the weight of the stuffing and maybe some of it is missing. I believe though these speakers should forgive some misalignment of the original manufacturing specs. But anywayI the sound quality of these speakers is not good at all. I bought them refoamed from a private ebaY seller and I guess the foam used might be too hard i.e too stiff for the 2ax original acoustic design. Any ideas where the problem might be would be very appreciated Thanks in advance!
  25. This is a pretty late response but speakers I have owned in this genre: ADS L500, L7e, L700 (L710 early version), L880, L1590 and a pair of Canton Karat 300's. I prefer the Karats to all of the ADS bookshelf speakers and performed A/B comparisons. Granted this is to MY ears, the opinions of others may differ and are valid. 1. Canton is more efficient. 2. Canton has more 'air' and sparkle without being harsh. 3. Despite being brighter the tweeter has less glare/grit than a hair, it's extremely smooth. That's one guy's take on it.
  26. Hi, Any other options for NLA surrounds other than the ubiquitous foam ones? I got my pair of NLAs back in 2007. Original surrounds were toast by then. Installed a pair and they lasted maybe a dozen years. Here we are again with cracked/rotted surrounds... I don't know how many refoams my cones can take. It's difficult cleaning off the old surround and glue residue with each refoaming. I figure in my life at the current rate I have at least 3 more refoams left. 😁 I know rubber or cloth would likely change the characteristics of the speaker but I don't think it would significantly... I'd be willing to try. Midwest Speaker sells rubber ones but the inner lip is angled and would be difficult to install as the cone lip is flat. Where could I purchase rubber or cloth surrounds with flat inner lips? Or are all of you NLA owners running the same foam surrounds? Cheers!
  27. Gotta love the internet! Just found a supplier of the ERO MKT1813 6,0uF (+/-5%) caps! UK based and as you can imagine, not going to break the bank. Getting the smaller 0,33uF's is no problem. Sorted, as the younger generation say.
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