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  3. Aadams

    Tweeter static

    Not sure what you replaced but have you tried swapping the speaker wires to see if the problem moves to the opposite channel? If not be sure to perform the swap with the amp turned off.
  4. ROGIJ

    Tweeter static

    I have a pair of original Advents connected to a Luxman L80V amp. When turned onthere is a loud static from one tweeter only which diminishes over a few minutes but never goes away completely. Tried replacing with one purchased on ebay with same result. Any suggestions ?, Thanks
  5. ROGIJ

    Tweeter static

    I have a pair of Advents connected to a Luxman L80V amp. When turned on one speaker tweeter has a loud static that dimishes over a few minutes but never goes away entirely. Tried replacing with another tweeter from ebay, supposedly from reputable dealer but same result. Any suggestions? Thanks
  6. The original finish on classic era ARs was a penetrating oil with a drying additive. If your speakers were made in the UK or elsewhere in Europe, then they might have been finished with conversion varnish or catalyzed lacquer which were more common finishes there. My experience has been that matte finish topcoats have a tendency to cloud grain, especially if multiple coats are applied. If you decide to varnish, use a gloss finish for the first coat/s and either apply only the last coat as matte, or just abrade the last glossy coat for a satin finish. The grill cloth is flax linen, n
  7. Thanks for you input Kent. The one I had in the photo was not the worst cabinet, one had a lot of scratches on the top which is a shame. I might try and pair up the best two and the worst two and decide how much restoration is required on each set. There is not a big surface area to them so it won't be such a big job as the Naim's I did, (see picture). I was going to use matt varnish as that appears to be what they are but maybe just dirty! Will give one a buff with some finishing wax and see how the good ones come up. I'll check out SpeakerWorks to see what their pricing is like, from
  8. Welcome Frankie Re-foaming is very easy. I use foams from SpeakerWorks here in the US but maybe a member on your side of the pond can suggest a supplier in the UK. Be sure to use white glue, not the solvent-based stuff. I have not owned MSTs but it looks like the grilles are linen--not wool. Be very careful because it will shrink if you use water. How bad are the worst parts of the cabinets? That one close-up doesn't look bad at all. I think I'd try Howard Restor-a-Finish and if it looks good then follow up with some wax. If you do decide to sand and varnish my own preference is
  9. Hi All, I just finished restoring a pair of Naim SBL Speakers, big heavy monsters but lovely sounding. My brother in law has now given me 2 pairs of AR MSTs (3 tweeter versions) to restore. I can see that these are pretty rare speakers. Firstly the cabinets are in reasonable condition, but could do with some work to remove scratches, only one needs a lot of work but if I do one I will do them all so they match up. First question is whether people think its worth doing this? I was planning to do a very high grit sand and clear re-varnish (matt) so as not to lose the original
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  11. McIntosh , Dynaco, Karlson loaded with Knight 800A's. Most likily Early 60's jensens. Also have a pair of JBL C54 Trimline. Only made between 64 and 68. LE8 and a 8" radiator. Plus one Electrovoice Arisocrat with a 12" University 6201 duplex.
  12. Picked this up at an estate sale. On the cone is 2194 2, The closest I can tell on the frame is ST476 PM12H? C127.
  13. Hi All, I've stumbled upon a pair of 'barn-find' speakers: 80cm x 50cm x 40cm! Outside photos useless. Have got this one of the internals. The quality of the cabinets suggests DIY. Is this confirmed by the internals? Could drive for a hour, take photos and report back. Would rather take just the one trip. Asking €50. Last time I did this, I ended up with a beautiful pair of European Holophone Sopranos! Cheers for any advice.
  14. I dunno. If I were doing it I'd just recap the crossover from ebay. I believe it's exactly the same, just point-to-point instead of pcb If you found a really helpful rep at nsf maybe you could send them a dead switch and ask for a match but that seems highly unlikely
  15. I was recommended a site to look for some pots that may work. Any idea where to find the specs on these to try and match up? https://www.nsfcontrols.co.uk/products/switches/rotary-wafer-switches/
  16. I grabbed that in hopes it was a match, but it isn't. Two failed on same crossover. Pics below of board with two good pots, recapped board, broken pots on board, and broken pot closeup
  17. A couple of pairs have been rebuilt by a physics professor here and the one with the aftermarket tweeter I have tried but was not impressed. I'm still trying to find out if it is faithful to Roy C's design. I have one pair like that and one pair with the red and one pair with that has no tweeters where I will use the black. A gift from the professor, extremely rough cabinets and mismatched foam woofer types that need foam surrounds. I recently bought a pair of first iteration cloth woofers that I have not yet tested but intend to use those there. Obviously they are g
  18. I was so happy to learn the reason why I don't like the sound of my AR 3a's at all. One option for me would be to just add the resistors. But I cannot do the work. With an entire shoulder and humerus replaced, I can no longer even lift them. So they will be sent out for the work. The transportation and labor will be costly so I decided to have them made as original as possible. I want to hear the AR 3a's the way they sounded 50 years ago. To recap(actually the caps should be fine LOL): L-pads will be replaced with pots. the HiVi Q1R's will be replaced with Roy's or Chris' rebuilt tweeters.
  19. 'I have a pair with the older red domes, a pair with the Hi-Vi and two pair of the three quarter inch black domes'. Wow. That's great. Can you describe the differences that you hear ?
  20. The resistor makes the L-pad electrically act more like the original AR control. Not using it with the midrange affects its tonal balance (specifically, crossover points) with both the woofer and tweeter. "Overlap" with the tweeter is usually a greater issue. This is sometimes the reason the HiVi tweeter is thought to be too aggressive or harsh, when in fact the offending frequencies are in the upper range of the mid frequencies. The resistor can also be used with the HiVi tweeter's L-pad to tame it a bit. On the other hand, not using the resistor with the L-pad can help coax a bit more output
  21. I was delighted to find that these are repairable even to the extent that Chris can 3D print missing parts of the flanges. I have a pair with the older red domes, a pair with the Hi-Vi and two pair of the three quarter inch black domes.
  22. The AR-3 tweeters have fiberglass under the dome, so no problem in that regard. The dome's foam suspension material has also held up well for the most part. Don't send them to the dump! Roy
  23. PT Doug. "Had all drivers tested and built the crossovers to match each speaker, with a flat +/-1.5 db response. " Can you enlighten me with equipment used and how to match crossovers to each speaker? Don't the resistors fine tune? I was assuming most would say they reuse the inductors. Not a deal breaker. It looks much easier to build everything on the bench, instead of inside speaker.
  24. I used original drivers. Had all drivers tested and built the crossovers to match each speaker, with a flat +/-1.5 db response. Also took out the woofers and had them remounted to eliminate future rattle. Also remove the switches in the back and installed acoustic feet. In my opinion trying to keep old outdated parts isn't going to achieve the original sound of those speakers. The same speaker box with the same drivers matched with a flat crossover will give you the sound you are looking for. It worked for me. Built, installed, and tested professionally. MY Opinion,I HAVE THE
  25. Thanks to another member ,I have obtained original drivers to replace both non working upper midrange and 1 tweeter and 1 woofer. So, next step is crossover rebuild. I have a good background in electrical theory. There are so many choices on capacitors. NPE, film, poly, etc. I am just trying to make speakers sound as good as new, if not better. Does anyone have a cookbook recipe for AR 9 crossover update/upgrades? I realize not all size capacitors with exact uf are available. To obtain correct value multiple capacitors grouped together, in parallel, to obtain correct uf needed
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