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About JKent

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday July 14

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  • Location
    Appalachian Mountains of NJ
  • Interests
    KLH Model Eight radios, classic American Hi-Fi, jazz, classic rock, C5 'vette

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  1. Ah! Those things. I've encountered them on several speaker refoam jobs. They're basically decorative and not needed although they provide good protection against a slipping screwdriver. Nothing worse than jamming a screwdriver through the woofer cone! So Simply Speakers and others sell them. Also listed on Amazon as chip gaskets.
  2. I've never worked on AR-12 but they look like nice speakers but I have worked on the AR-17s from the same era (1975-78 ADD series). Are the 12s essentially modern 2ax's? So I don't have first-hand experience to draw from. At first I thought maybe they have an acoustic blanket, like the 9 series but the photos online don't show that. So I must conclude you are talking about the gasket that goes between the driver's frame and the speaker baffle. In that case the best stuff to use is this: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540 Kent
  3. JKent

    Advent 350 Receiver

    Right ar_pro. And projection TVs. It's my understanding Henry started Advent specifically to make projection TVs and added the audio products to support that endeavor. The audio products were built to a price point and that explains the assembly in Mexico. The Advent 400--a terrific radio--wholesaled for less than $20 more than it cost them to build. No wonder they went bankrupt. And if I'm not mistaken the first Advent Dolby cassette deck, which revolutionized the industry, was built on a Nakamichi model that was inferior and prone to break-down. They then switched to the bulletproof Wollensa
  4. JKent

    Advent 350 Receiver

    I see the resemblance. Makes sense--the Advent 300 had a Holman preamp, maybe the 350 does too?? Assembled in Mexico.
  5. The big brother to the 300. These are pretty rare. I picked this one up a few years ago and it was a basket case--bent faceplate and broken tuning capacitor. It was beyond my ability to fix so I took it to my friend Tim at Bristol Electronics here in NJ. Told him to take his time and although it took longer than usual he worked his magic. He even found a main board with an intact tuner cap! It also needed some screws, resistors, trim pot, speaker relay and odds & ends. Funny, the seller told be the only issue was one dead channel. This beast weighs in at about 22 pounds. It delivers 5
  6. Carbonneau made the mid/tweeters for the AR-2a and the drivers for the 1951 Baruch-Lange speakers Henry Kloss built in his Cambridge loft.
  7. Welcome Aldena You may not have noticed Carl's post was dated 2001. Sadly our friend Carl has since passed away. Kent
  8. Here's how: http://www.millersound.net/contact-bill-legall-millersound.html
  9. Thanks Kent for the Quick response. So from your reply I can use a cap with a higher voltage rating without any adverse effects to the sound. I appears that finding 50 v caps are out of the question , but installing ones with a higher voltage such as 100v or 250v will not have any appreciable effect on sound. Am I reading that right?

  10. Hi Andrew and welcome +/- 10% is fine for caps so you can, for example, use 8.2uF for 8 and 15uF for 16. Always go higher in voltage, never lower. Most of us use film caps because they lst "forever". Kent PS: Anything on this page will work for the 8uF https://www.parts-express.com/cat/metalized-polypropylene-crossover-capacitors/294?N=22074+4294967118+4294962385&Ne=10166&Nrpp=99999&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&PortalID=1 Any of these will do for the 16 https://www.parts-ex
  11. Welcome Alby I had never heard of those speakers but did a little google search and they seem to be big-bucks beauties. Saw this on usaudiomart: Asking Price: USD $20000.00 Retail Price: USD $40000.00 So, I'd suggest using a beautiful veneer to try to make them as original as possible. Of course Frank's advice makes a lot of sense too. Kent
  12. Welcome Nick I have no experience with the 8B but looking at your photo, the wires have Sta-Kon connectors that just push on to tabs on the woofer. Just pull them off. The photo below shows this. Ignore the black wire in the photo. Your woofer has just the 2 wires, like the red and blue in my pic. Those are 6.5" woofers and both need to be re-foamed. Easy enough and you can get help here. But that protruding cone leads me to believe there may be more going on. Maybe a detached spider and if that's the case the voice coil could be damaged. Maybe take a better pic behind the cone once
  13. Sorry if I muddied the waters. I did not see the flat cap--thought maybe the whole thing was missing, which would have been a problem.
  14. Well they look kinda cool. Any pics of the back? Or a close-up of the speaker badge? If they're real wood veneer and the price is right, might be good for a DIY project if nothing else. A few years ago I picked up some unknown speakers in fairly nice cabinets at the Sal. Took a design by Johnny Richards that he called "Rompicollo", based on some cheap closeout drivers from Parts Express. Had to make a new baffle, crossover and grille but they came out nicely. You could have some fun.
  15. Those are the old style, Alnico woofers with cloth surrounds. Many prefer those. You should not replace the cloth with foam and I doubt that would fix it. The only thing to do with cloth surrounds is to coat them with a thin coat of RoyC's goo. You said it does not have a VC dome (aka dust cap). If that's the case there could be dirt in there. If that's the case you could vacuum it out and put a dust cap on. Others here may have suggestions for a DIY fix. Otherwise send the bad woofer to Bill LeGall at Millersound in PA and he'll make it like new. Kent
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