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JKent

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About JKent

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  • Birthday July 14

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    Male
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    Appalachian Mountains of NJ
  • Interests
    KLH Model Eight radios, classic American Hi-Fi, jazz, classic rock, C5 'vette

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  1. I wouldn't. The foam gasket tape creates a good seal but the woofer can be removed easily if needed. The duct seal is less convenient but still lets you remove the woofer. You tear off a chunk and roll it out to make a snake like you may have done with plasticene "modeling clay" as a kid. GE Silicone will hold it tight and make it difficult to remove.
  2. OK. A good introduction to speaker restoration is this: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/original_models_1954-1974/original_models_schematicss/restoring_the_ar-3a/ The AR-3a is bigger and more complex but some principles are common to all speakers of this era. Here's a thread on Seventeen restoration: https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/11067-another-seventeen-restoration/ You can also search through this forum for Model Seventeen (or the essentially identical Model Twenty) restoration. Your grilles are attached with Velcro, so they'll pull right off. Next remove the woofer by removing all the screws. There is putty sealing the woofer to the cabinet and it may have become rock hard so it could be tough to remove. Pull the woofer out and you'll see the 2 wires: red & black. These are connected with wire nuts. Remove the wire nuts. There is a piece of crinoline-like cloth behind the woofer. This keeps fiberglass out of the woofer. Remove that and set it aside. Next, wearing gloves, pull out the fiberglass and store it in a plastic bag. This will reveal the crossover. What you want to remove is the 2 black capacitors with red ends. One, the 8uF is a single and you can just the 2 wires and splice in the new cap. You can solder it or use crimp connectors. Now look at the double cap. It has a black wire coming out of one end and 2 red wires coming out of the other. Take your two 2uF caps and twist one lead from each together so you now have one lead at one end and two leads at the other. Use this to replace the double cap. Just make sure you locate the caps somewhere so the metal leads don't touch any other metal. Then put it all back together in reverse order. Make sure to get that crinoline in there to protect the woofer. And you will need a seal between the woofer and the cabinet (like the old putty). The best stuff is foam gasket from Parts Express. https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540 But you can also use duct seal, available from Lowes or Home Despot https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-16-oz-Duct-Seal/4595233?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-106-_-electricalaccessories-_-4595233-_-0&placeholder=null&&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAjwkoz7BRBPEiwAeKw3qyzqFfPAGbogQPlvT0WG693ZafxEHlZPiQxLfA5aaoc4s_6t4onK_RoC-_oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds The idea is to make the speaker air-tight. After it's finished you may want to use Roy's sealant on the woofer surround, but that can wait. Kent
  3. Each speaker takes one 8uF cap and two 2uF caps. Partsexpress.com has them: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-20-20uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-414 and https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-82-82uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-426 (8.2uF is close enough--well within tolerance) or if you want exactly 8.0uF, double up on these: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-40-40uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-421 These are modern film caps, so not original to the speaker. Film caps last virtually forever but non-polar electrolytics (NPEs) like the originals last a couple of decades. Parts Express does have NPEs but most of us here use film https://www.parts-express.com/cat/non-polarized-electrolytic-capacitors/1385 I should also mention, because it can be confusing, the 2uF caps in the original crossovers are double--two 2uF capacitors in a single case with one common (black) lead and 2 red leads. Just replace that with two 2uF caps. Also--don't worry about the voltage rating. I think the originals were 50VDC, modern caps will be higher. It's always good to go higher, never lower. There is a way to check the caps but new ones are so cheap it's not worth it. Below is a schematic and a picture of a Model Seventeen crossover with an exploded capacitor.
  4. Welcome keenone. Nice speakers. I can't give you an exact date but the Seventeens were manufactured 1965 - 1974. Considered to be among KLH's best 2-ways. I'd recommend replacing the crossover capacitors. If you haven't done it before, it's not hard but those old caps are notorious for going bad. Kent
  5. That's a tough one. Got me curious so I googled it. Some discussions on audiokarma, diyaudio etc. I did not find a modern equivalent. Options seem to be ebay (one recently went for $202) or have it rewound. I did not see anything about a modern equivalent. Good luck with the search.
  6. JKent

    CB-10 crossovers

    Yes--good hobby that provides fun and satisfaction. Good luck with the 442! Amp choices are endless. The original ads say these work fine with low power amps. Judging by your avatar I'm guessing you're in the Great White North. If I were there I might be looking for a nice used Bryston but that may be overkill. Kent
  7. JKent

    CB-10 crossovers

    I always like to see 5w resistors replaced with 10w although some members claim this is unnecessary. I've seen burned 5w resistors in KLH speakers so I take no chances. That yellow cap is mylar and probably good but the new Solen is nice.
  8. I'm sorry. You're absolutely right. But there are AC/AC adaptors available. On this side of the pond my landscape lights operate at 12V AC and use a 120V AC to 12V AC transformer. Laptop transformers may also be AC--I'm just not sure. That 3.5mm plug will be an issue but maybe you could find an electronics repair shop that could attach the correct plug for you. I actually had an Analog Bass Computer with wall wart until I sold it about a month ago. The ABC can accept 13 to 14V AC, 50 or 60Hz. Wish I had a picture of my wall wart--I don't think it was an original. This is a 115V AC/ 14 V AC adapter that would not be appropriate for 230V but it gives an idea of the kind of thing that "should" be available in Europe https://www.amazon.com/Accessory-USA-AC12V-Adapter-Vestax/dp/B07B8KRZ1L Or here's one that is rated 220/230/240V AC 50Hz in, 14V AC out. 1.8A - 2A. I believe a higher Amperage rating is fine (your original is 135mA, these are 1.8A or 1800mA). https://www.amazon.com/UpBright-New-Adapter-Replacement-Model/dp/B078X4XTN6 Sorry but when I Google "230V AC to 14VAC adapter" I only get North American results. Try it in Amsterdam and see what you find. Kent
  9. i believe you can use a universal wall wart as long as it meets the specs (14 vdc 135 mah) and the correct polarity
  10. the pat-4 has outs to two amps. connect one pair of speakers to each amp using a variac couldn’t hurt. if the amp has not been used in a while it will re-form the caps slowly but with something that old i recommend a real technician check it out
  11. wow. not really what most of us would call “rough”! did you get the amp too?
  12. Jim The ST-120 is, I believe only rated for 8 ohms. And it’s old. Good amp for one pair of speakers IF it has been checked out. Maybe add another ST-120? Kent
  13. I don't think it much matters which is on top, but the original is supposed to have better dispersion than the Hi-Vi so maybe factor that in.
  14. Very professional drawing AR55! The foam grilles look good. I was a little disappointed with the ones they made for my Cizek KA-1s. Maybe if I'd provided a drawing like yours, but I did send them a speaker to work from. L.T., if you're good with woodworking check out the frames lARrybody made for my AR-11 project: https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/11414-ar-11-restoration/page/2/ And a belated "welcome!" Kent
  15. JKent

    Cabinet refinnishing

    Lonny, I do have some but will probably be getting out of the KLH badge "business". PM me if you want info on availability and prices. Kent
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