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JKent

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About JKent

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  • Birthday July 14

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    Male
  • Location
    Appalachian Mountains of NJ
  • Interests
    KLH Model Eight radios, classic American Hi-Fi, jazz, classic rock, C5 'vette

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  1. Yeah--looks like just 3 electrolytics. 4 decades old. I'd ditch 'em.Lowest cost: Buy 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS1002-Two-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B011TI97VE/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=crown+xls&qid=1594674869&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-5 and 6 of these https://www.erseaudio.com/Products/NonPolarElectrolyticAll/ANP10-05-60-0-PB (put two 60uFs in parallel to make 120uF)
  2. I may be pilloried here but if those Nippon America woofers sound good to you for the side-firing woofs, leave 'em. If the crossovers seem OK, leave 'em (but I'd replace them if they were mine). I'd go with original tweeters but there are options. Once you put in Dayton or Vifa tweeters these will no longer be AR-93s but if they sound good to you, what the heck. OTOH, you won't KNOW they sound good until you buy the tweeters and install them. Then it's too late. DavidR's offer is a no-brainer. I bought a preamp from him and it was very nice, at a fair price. Why take chances with wrong tweets or ebay pig-in-a-poke? Those speakers probably like power. One option (of many) would be a Crown like this https://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS1002-Two-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B011TI97VE/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=crown+xls&qid=1594674869&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-5 Gobs of power, brand new, low price. There are similar amps from Behringer and QSC. For my 91s I use an Adcom 555 II and the aforementioned Adcom 565 but I had both checked out by a pro before putting them into service (both were fine btw) Kent
  3. JKent

    First Large Advents

    Welcome S.S. Those are Original Large Advents. The bullnose ones were the New Advents. Green tweeter is original, red one may be a replacement. Check out this useful thread: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/identifying-your-advent-loudspeakers.126376/ Also check out Pete Basel's Advent crossover info http://baselaudiolab.com/ADVENT_LA_XO.html What's the P.O.? You buy these at the Post Office? 😉 Kent
  4. nefertem, What are they? Are they the Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeters?
  5. Welcome isupreme You'll get plenty of help here. btw, do you still have the Kenwood mono amps? I'll be following this with interest. I've worked on the 91, 92 and 94 but never the 93. If you haven't found this page already, here are brochures and info for the 9 series: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/ar-9_series_1978-1981/ Based on what I see there, it looks like the 93 and 94 used the same 32mm/1.25" liquid cooled cone tweeter. Maybe some others used that tweeter. Hoping a member will come up with a part number. As for the 200mm/8" woofer I suspect that was common to many AR speakers and shouldn't be hard to find. As ar_pro said, take pics of the printed parts numbers on all the (original) drivers and that will help you find replacements. Did you replace the foam woofer & mid surrounds? They look OK in the pic. oops. Just lost my edit. The gist of it was; if you look at the 9 series brochures I "think" the tweeter was the same for the 93 and 94. Pic of a 94 tweet below. I think these are fairly common but I don't have the PN. There are a couple of AR-94 tweeters on ebay for about $40 each. If you are unable to get the correct tweeters, one CSP member recommended these: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc28f-8-1-1-8-silk-dome-tweeter--275-070 The 8" woofer and "mid" in the 94 are the same. AR part # 1210067-08 272TNG (the 272TNG indicates made by Tonegen). Kent
  6. Hi Ben Best advice on these speakers will be from Roy. You may have noticed he knew the coils were 18ga and not (as I had written) 17. Nevertheless, I'm going to throw in my 2 cents (2 pence?) again. Film caps may sound different. That may be due at least in part to having a different ESR than electrolytics. Is different necessarily better? One reason for using film is that they don't degrade, so if you plan to hand these down to your grandchildren film may be the way to go. Electrolytics will go out of spec eventually. How long? I dunno. I've seen 20 year old 'lytics that were off and 50 year old 'lytics that were spot on. btw, the spec on capacitors used to be -25%/+75% so the actual values could vary considerably. Ken Kantor (developer of the AR-303, co-author of "Restoring the AR-3a", founder of NHT, bon vivant) advocates replacing electrolytics with electrolytics. The speakers were designed with electrolytics. Although I have no experience with them, several members here speak highly of the Mundorf E-Caps you mentioned. I'm sure they would be a fine choice. The prevailing wisdom seems to be, as Roy suggested, to use film for small values and electrolytic for large values. Disclaimer: I have only used film caps in my 12" ARs (AR-3a, AR-91) and in other speakers. I have used electrolytics in some 12" KLH speakers (Five, Twelve) and they sounded very good but my septuagenarian ears are far from "golden". Hope these ramblings are helpful. Kent PS: I think 63v is fine for speaker caps.
  7. Welcome Al Well, this may be a rude greeting but I suspect the AS-2s are not "real" Advents. Henry Kloss started making Advent speakers to provide money for his then real passion, projection TV. The Advent speakers and other products (table radios, first Dolby Cassette deck) were excellent, affordable products. The speakers were all acoustic suspension designs like AR and KLH (Kloss's previous companies). In the late '80s Advent was sold to Jensen, who continued the acoustic suspension design but shortly later the company was sold to a Chinese company and they went downhill. I believe yours are ported Chinese speakers. I don't claim to be an Advent expert so I could be wrong. Hope other members will chime in. Nice receiver. Kent
  8. That may be a nice amp, I don't know. It's definitely NOT a Dynaco. It's a Dynavox Tube Amplifier VR-70 E-2. If you google it you'll find some discussion. I think 375 Euro is about half the recommended retail price but I don't know how much they really sell for. Kent
  9. Well, we're here to help and encourage. Since you are rebuilding the entire xo yes, it may be easier to work outside the cabinet. I can't find an AR-3a Improved crossover schematic but your speakers "may" have the needed resistors. In the AR-3a that resistor was a piece of nichrome wire. When I built an AR-3a crossover from scratch I used two 1-ohm 10w resistors in parallel. This yields a 0.5 Ohm 20w resistor, which should be fine. The 1st pic below shows an exceedingly neatly laid out crossover by CSP member xmas111. Notice the silver wire between the 2 coils on the bottom left part of the board. That's nichrome. The second, considerably less neat xo is mine. You can see the two 1 Ohm resistors in the middle of the board. Kent
  10. Use a block of wood and a hammer. Make new out of Masonite if necessary but I'd re-use the old. You can plug the switch hole and drill new holes for the L-pads. Re-use coils. Replace caps. For 150uF use NPE, they're cheap. 15w 100v minimum but anything over that is fine If you need new coils use 18ga. I believe the originals are 17ga. Re-use any originals you can. No offense intended but this is an ambitious project and you are a novice. You sure you want to do this? Kent
  11. Ah. Nice speakers and well worth the price. Many of us here are on AK as well but when it comes to "AR and its New England progeny" this is your best bet. RoyC is the go-to guy on all things AR and he cooked up the ONLY goo you should use on cloth surrounds. Robert (ra.ra.) has made it his mission to become the resident expert on all iterations of the AR-4. So you are sure to get good advice here, including whether or not to even bother resealing the woofer surrounds. I'll be very interested to see ra.ra's comments. the 4xa was "walnut grained" which means vinyl (ugh) but you mentioned refinishing so I assume you've found these to be wood veneer (?). Some 4xa's had foam-surround woofers but yours are cloth. As I understand it, the xa sort of evolved throughout its run, with some changes being made. I think your tweeters are the same as the ones in the AR-6 (or was it 7?). You have a few options: Find a matching tweeter, Find 2 AR-4x tweets and convert the pair to 4x, use phenolic ring tweeters (not original but cheap and easy). Maybe others. It will be interesting to see what capacitor you have. If it's a big blue Sprague can it "may" be OK. Otherwise you'll want to replace it. 10uF I think. Roy & Robert are also on AK but I hope you will continue to document your progress here on CSP. Kent
  12. Welcome Joe 3a's are pretty valuable. Working pairs have recently sold on ebay for $1,000 to $1,500. If you really want to sell them I'd suggest you list them, with pictures, in the For Sale section. https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/forum/10-for-sale-wanted/ Try to make the pictures about 100-200KB. OTOH, it sounds like you like these speakers and would like to keep them but the repair cost is prohibitive. If you have any skill with a soldering iron you can do the repair yourself for 1/10 what the shop wants. If you want to try DIY let us know and you'll get lots of help. You can download the AR-3a restoration booklet here: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/original_models_1954-1974/original_models_schematicss/restoring_the_ar-3a/ and buy 4 L-pads from Parts Express for about $6 each: https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-15w-mono-3-8-shaft-8-ohm--260-248 Good luck with whatever you decide. Kent
  13. Welcome Clugg Is it just me? I can't view any of your pics Kent
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