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About ar_pro

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  1. Congratulations on your new speakers! The face of the AR-9 is veneered top-to-bottom, and the unpainted surface around the midrange driver is unusual, but of no real consequence. The early version of the AR-9 did not have the foam inserts for the upper mid and tweeter. The inserts are subject to deterioration, although I have seen examples in the past few years of intact, but still-fragile AR-9 inserts. Some guys have fabricated replacements, but you probably shouldn't lose any sleep over their absence. As Lance G pointed out, the 8" lower mids will need to be re-foamed, as wi
  2. As I recall, the original Advent deck wasn't around very long before being replaced by the significantly more robust Wollensak platform. In those ancient times, I came very close to buying one or the other deck, but never did. It was only years later when I came across a used Advent for about $20 that I got to play with one. The Japanese manufacturers had a wildly different philosophy of user interface for their top decks than did Advent/Wollensak, which relied upon rugged, manually-engaged mechanisms instead of logic-controlled solenoid switching. I remember Sound Reproduction, as well
  3. Right - I remember that the Model 300 was assembled in Mexico, which was pretty unusual for the time. When Advent is mentioned, most people rightly think of their famous speaker, but the company had some very clever electronic products, like the receivers, radios, equalizer, and their digital delay component. Not to mention their cassette decks and Dolby systems.
  4. I've never seen one of these, Kent. It reminds me a little of the old Apt preamplifier. Does it say where was it assembled?
  5. Well, that's beautiful, Jeff - congratulations! Museum quality. On another note, how many loudspeakers have come with an actual WARNING label?
  6. A lot of iron in those amplifiers, boys. Hafta' be in shape to own a Mac! Sam, that's just a great vintage system with the C20 preamp and MC2250 with AR-3a speakers. I can recall an article from maybe some time in the '90s that suggested the most effective way to employ vacuum tubes in a system would be to choose a tube preamp, and a powerful solid-state amplifier.
  7. Very nice, Sam...congratulations! The MC2250 is a couple of generations newer than your MC2105, and is a solid & reliable design. It's also dead quiet, and enough amplifier to drive any AR system; it should sound superb with your AR-3a.
  8. In its time, the AR-2ax was very commonly used with kit & factory-assembled tube amplifiers from Dynaco, Eico, and Heathkit, who were direct competition for each other in the American market; and it wasn't unusual to find the AR-2ax connected to a pricier McIntosh or Harman-Kardon Citation amplifier, although certainly not to the same extent as the less expensive types. When higher-powered solid state amplifiers became available, the market for popularly-priced tube amplifiers declined dramatically, and then pretty much disappeared. Many people who run vintage-based audio systems
  9. Same drivers, essentially the same internal volume once the AR-91's plinth and oddly-shaped top are factored into the measurements, and the same crossover, minus the AR-91 level controls, associated resistors, and spaghetti. The AR-91 had a mini "acoustic blanket", and (sometimes) foam inserts, which made a slightly audible difference with close-in listening, but not so much in larger spaces. And of course, the 91 had the mid & tweeter level switches for 0 dB and -3 and -6 dB settings. Differences in sound could be related to variation in the type & amount of stuffing used
  10. Unless I'm misremembering, the original Absolute Sound article was about vertically stacking Large Advent speakers, tweeter-to-tweeter. This turned out to be the best alignment. A stock Dynaco Stereo 120 isn't comfortable with low-impedance loads, especially when trying to reproduce a low frequency signal at volume; running 4 AR-2ax speakers from a single ST-120 could be a problem for the amplifier.
  11. Try describing your problems to this bunch - be sure to include the relevant info, and that you're a stone's throw from an AM transmitter: https://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=2 or https://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=13
  12. You simply need to isolate the problem with your electronics: power amplifier, preamplifier, source. Connect the Crown amplifier to your speakers by itself, without the preamplifier. Can you hear any buzzing? Move the Crown level controls through their full range to be certain. If no buzzing is heard, connect your preamplifier to the Crown, and repeat the test of listening for noise at different volume settings of both the Crown and your preamplifier. If no buzzing is heard, connect a line level source like a CD player to your preamplifier, and repeat the test. This should
  13. Beautiful - that's a great-looking speaker!
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