lARrybody

This is a drawing I made of my AR4x recap. Here is the finished version. One set of my 4x's has smooth cones, another set has ribbed cones like yours. My Ar4's have the cross hatch pattern on the woofers. They all have cloth surrounds.

These are the same 5 in. drivers used in the 1952 Baruch-Lang Speaker that Henry Kloss assembled and sold via mail order in his loft/workshop in Cambridge MA. It was not his design, but that of some fellow MIT students. Not my images but from Audiokarma. Henry must of loved these little speakers because they were later used as the dual midranges in the AR 2 and AR 2a's. Here is a pair that I bought to convert some AR2a's with 2ax upgraded midranges back to their original configuration. I determined they were not the condition I wanted and found another pair. They have a DCR of 3.2 ohms and the speakers are wired in parallel measuring 1.8 ohms. Notice the fiberglass behind the paperthin cones and in the enclosures. I found some modern 4 1/2 in drivers with the same bolt pattern and fit except the magnet structure is too large and the backs would have to be cut open to allow a portion of the magnet to stick out. They are 8 ohm GRS Pioneer type full ranges and wired in parallel should yield 4 ohm loads. I have not found a project for them yet. Those Danish AR's look interesting and probably very rare.

Those are some nice AR4's. Two years ago I was lucky enough to acquire a set to add to my AR4x's and AR4xa's. Compared to 4x's these are relatively rare. Someone here on this form would probably be delighted to have them. Here are some pictures of mine. What are your serial numbers? The grills are held on with quite a few staples that have to be carefully removed to not damage the cloth.

I would use AR 91/58S drivers and crossovers and place them centered in line.

Just wondering. How would you go about replacing the front baffle? Is it just glued to the back of the inner cabinet spacer or would the front beveled trim have to come off? No I am not even considering getting them, just trying to understand what would be involved.

Add says, "Feel free to ask questions" Ahh Why?

Those are beautiful. The foam inserts around the tweeters and mid ranges never survive. Not that critical. Re foam those woofers and listen to them. Not that hard to do if your are patient enough. These are the type of speakers us AR guys like to see. One owner untouched with great cabinets. Good Luck.

Welcome to CSP Yes they are worth having. You don't see many for sale because they are sought after. Excellent three way speakers. If you are talking about Millersound in Lansdale you are on the right track. Bill LeGall can make them like new again. There is a ton of information about 91's here.

They look good to me. How do the grills look? Are the badges black rectangles that say AR9 or just silver AR emblems? The grill sockets are recessed in the cabinets like mine. If you get them you won't be disappointed. Remember that they like a lot of clean power, at least 200 watts per channel.

Do you have a picture of that woofer after Bill got through with them? I recently used the fast tack white craft glue from Aleene's and was quite pleased with the results.

Check with Rick. rcobb@tampabay.rr.com AKA looneytune2001

My AR 4X's are 19in. high, 10 in. wide and 9 in. deep. Wish I had some AR3's to measure.

Welcome to CSP Mat That is a Tonegen A7 replacement woofer probably made in Taiwan. Not a bad woofer. Your other 20003 woofer could have a round or square magnet. There is information on the different woofers used in the AR3a restoration guide found here in the library section. They look very well cared for. Could you show the back switches and binding post.

I found these reviews. http://www.audioreview.com/product/speakers/bookshelf-speakers/acoustic-research/ar17.html

Your Euro AR5's are looking good. I have two sets of these. My first set came to me fully restored. They have the early woofers. The resisters were to tone down an L-pad and have subsequently been removed when 15 ohm 25 watt rheostats were installed. The second set were a different story. They came with the wrong HiVi tweeters and backwired AR 3a midrenges. They have been converted back to front wired original drivers. The tweeters measured 6.6 ohms and 6.8 ohms respectively. The midranges both were 5.9 ohms. The reason I mention this is have you measured your Midranges? Get the gaskets sealed on those drivers and enjoy these excellent speakers.

I vote on using filled fillet type surrounds for your woofers.Rick Cobb has them and you can reach him outside of ebay at rcobb@tampabay.rr.com. I have cut new flat dust caps out of a organic egg carton (the old fashioned paper kind) with a Martha Stewart circle cutter from Michaels. You can get some Aleene's Tacky glue there too.

Nice looking pair of 9's. I don't know why people put engraved numbers on equipment. Maybe for insurance purposes. At least they are on the back. Who is going to pick up speakers weighing 130 lbs each and take off with them. I used a heavy duty hand truck to get mine inside the house. I have seen several pictures of 9's with the 200043-0 tweeters on the internet. Just like in my AR58S speakers. Mine came with 200011 tweeters like you would see in AR 11's. I stole the 200029-1 tweeters from my AR91's to replace them. As far as I know they are all pretty close in performance if not identical. Since then I have managed to snag extras when they are a good deal. Best part is that the spares sometime come with the foam inserts which were missing from my 9's also. No luck on the foams for the upper midranges yet, they are special on the 9's and 90 or 91 inserts won't fit. Will probably have to make some. Like I said AFAIK they are identical performance wise, just different cosmetically.

You sure do pretty work. That can't be your first re-foam job. Professional looking all the way. I personally use the Aleene's Tacky Glue. Like RaRa says (no fumes). It takes 15-20 minutes for the glue to set. Lots of time for adjustment. But you have to keep going over the glue seal. Recently I have tried the Fast Tack Aleene's. It grabs right away but you still have a couple of minutes for adjustment. Looking forward to seeing them together and what your thoughts are on the performance.

Toluene was the solvent used in the original surround treatment. I used some to condition and clean some AR3a cloth surrounds before I applied some of Roy’s formula. In fact I had a jar that had dried up a bit and I used Toluene to reconstitute it. Had to buy a 1 gallon can, thus a lifetime supply.

Very nice speakers indeed. The black woofer is definitely a original A4 driver. The silver woofer could be A5 out of the MK2 series. Then again it could be out of a AR9/91 speaker. If it has a square magnet it could be from a AR 58S. The only way to know is to see the backside of the woofer. Those look so nice all you may need to do is identify the odd woofer and re-foam. I am a big fan of Parts Express, but when it comes to surrounds Rick Cobb is my goto guy to make sure I get the correct compliant parts. I have a pair of AR 11in.replacement foams from Simply Speakers that I chose not to use after comparing them to the surrounds Rick sent me. Let us see the backside of that woofer.

Fedeleluigi, that turn of the century multimeter was wonkey. It has been replaced with a new one. Searching the internet I found images of the original yellow dome tweeters. I have MK1 AR 11's, AR 12's and and these 10pi's, all with black dome tweeters. Not sure when AR switched to the black ferrofluid examples. My MK2 AR 11's definitely have the 2000011 tweeters. I just received some replacement used woofes from a auction. I thought they would be A5 woofers because the outside baskets are silver and not black like the original ones currently in the 10pi's. To my surprise I think they are actually A4 woofers because of the dust caps. The seller also included the original screws, gaskets and fiberglass sheets from the AR 11 they came from. The screws are philips heads and the dust caps have lips. if they were A5's they should of had square drive screws and flush dust caps. Also the dates of the fourth week of 1976,( the originals have a date of the 51st week if 1975) lead me to believe they are A4's. I couldn't be happier and after they are refoamed they are going in the 10pi's. BGRoss Welcome to the CSP. Those sound like some really special AR10pi's. I wish I had those original tweeters. Post some pictures of your woofers and let us try to identify them. I have been around here several years and learn new things almost every week. You found the right spot for information you can take as the truth.

Is that peg from a AR9? Parts Express sells the almost exact replacement ones. Just grab it with pliers and rip it out. on the other hand you could try probing around the insert with a needle and maybe inject a small amount of MEK with a hypo. And try to nudge it out with a claw hammer.

Nothing better than AR's in the backseat headed home.Especially rare ones like those. Congratulations. That was a very informative thread about removing stain from pine cabinets. Laundry bleach and scraping with utility razor blades, whoknew? I hope it is OK to post a link to your post because it may be relevant to the present discussion.

I have been looking for a set of 10pi speakers for a while now. Yesterday I went up to Chicago to help my son wall mount a TV and set up his home theater. I came home with a set of MK1 10pi's. You might have seen them listed on the auctions site. They were in my watch list for over two months with no takers. Tuesday I finally contacted the seller and ask what his bottom line was on them. I explained that I did not want to insult him with too low a offer. He replied that they were not his and he was selling them for a friend. He said I should make a offer and he would pass it on to the owner. They are by no means pristine, more of a project set. The woofers did not look quite right with large dust caps. I made him a substantially lower offer and to my surprise it was accepted. Here they are today sitting on my patio table. I pulled one of the woofers to see what they were. They are actually the original A4 woofers that someone has refoamed and added oversize dust caps and painted the cones with some paint/glue type mixture. They really slopped it on there thick. My question is what type of solvent or paint striper and what technique should I try to clean them up without damaging the cone too much. Maybe the answer is to get different woofers. Here are some close up pictures. ++