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Giorgio AR

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About Giorgio AR

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/29/1962

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    Trieste, Italy
  • Interests
    HiFi, Acoustic Research speakers,old motorcycles and cars

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  1. In my direct experience, that type of glue (the speakers should be the series assembled in England or Holland) was also on my AR3a imp. and on pair of AR18 it is almost impossible to remove without ruining the hidden components. In my case with considerable difficulty I had removed only the one that blocked the capacitors to be replaced and discovering the wires (as well as fine removal of the residues with strong thinner) in order to then be able to weld the new capacitors correctly. The glue used in the speakers made in the USA is much easier to remove and used in smaller quantities! I am attaching the photos of an AR3a crossover imp. before and after replacing capacitors (in the other speaker I have not replaced a 10uF capacitor, it was impossible to isolate the wire to solder the new one !!) I also have a switch from AR18 (England), removed from the masonite, not even here with the piece in my hands did I manage to remove the glue from the switch body itself, this penetrated the plastic of the switch ...
  2. Hello Brian, try this: https://www.ebay.it/itm/324155784808 It is an example, better to find a matched pair, it is not expensive, with little difficulty you can replace your non-working tweeters (it also happened to me with an AR78LS tweeter: the wire between the contact and the course on the magnet is interrupted by corrosion!), and you will be able to recover some of the money spent by reselling the mid. or all the rest. If you don't feel able to replace, there is a member who has this ability, Chris1this tries to contact him!
  3. Ra.ra, I confirm the switch with a plastic lever and also the 90 ° rotation of the crossover panel. The rear-wired tweeters have the same diameter magnet as the previous ones, subsequently they got the denomination 200005. Between the three couples, there are differences in the grilles frames (in the older couple the frame is in wooden strips, the other two have a masonite frame with different cut) and in the linen texture.
  4. Ra.ra below you can find photos of the third pair of AR7, recently purchased, is the second assembled in Holland, completely original and untouched, unlike the two previous couples it is a late model with vinyl coating (the other 2 couples are covered in wood ), this one as well as the others has consecutive numbers on the labels. The last photo shows the three AR7s together.
  5. Ra.ra, you are always helpful in your posts, today I finished and closed after the repairs of the cabinet and replacement of the capacitors (in the older AR4x pair a woofer still has small leaks in the seal, tomorrow even this small problem will be fixed ) both pairs. I checked my photographic archive and I attach the labels of the second pair of ar7, in which the letter H is written correctly, from a survey with my family, it should be an M prefix, I hope that over time they will be found other testimonies on the existence of this prefix (as previously written, from certain news, AR speakers were assembled in Italy in the 70s as well). In the attached thread I add the photos of my recent acquisition of the third pair of AR7!
  6. I purchased my second pair of AR4x, like the previous one, this too is of late production (the first pair is around the end of '69: the date imprinted on the woofers' magnets is 69-46 and 69-47, no other date 'interior of the cabinets; in these woofers there is a damping ring on the cone around the dustcaps), the new pair, has date on the magnets of woofers 71-01 and 71-08, in a cabinet there is a stamp with date 06-71. The veneers of both should be walnut, but darker than usual (the shades differ slightly, however dark). The strangest aspect for me are the progressive numbers on the back labels: the suffix indicating the model (FX usually) is preceded in both pairs by the letter M (MFX) and the progressive numbers are: 006195 / 0075xx the first couple 022415/022680 the second pair If they had been assembled in the USA, probably the number on the labels should have been around 300000/380000, the letter preceding the abbreviation identifying the model should indicate the country of assembly (e.g. H = Holland, E or EA = England, AU = Australia), I wonder if it is possible to establish where my two couples were assembled (perhaps in Italy? Here at us, from certain news numerous AR speakers have been assembled, including replicas in the 90s of the AR10PII of which I have a couple !). In addition, this numbering difference, I had already noticed in other AR speakers, as late specimens of AR3a and AR7, this in my opinion makes me think that more speakers have been produced than reported by the US numbering !! I hope to stimulate further research and information on AR speakers labels with different numbers compared to the normal USA chronology. In addition to the photos of the two couples, I also include photos of the original capacitors (wax box in the older AR4x pair, with values very out of specification , almost 40uF, the Sprague capacitors are still within tolerances, however I have replaced all the capacitors, all now very close to the 20uF of the project (these photos are to satisfy Ra.ra's knowledge, always very careful on the types and values of the original capacitors AR speakers !!). In both pairs, the woofer seat (the baffle is in chipboard) with sealant gasket, was cracked laterally and was restored by gluing the fractures with two-component glue to guarantee the original seal of the air suspension. Above the older couple '69 pair ù Up '71 pair '69 labels up, '71 down '69 capacitors '69 new capacitors '71 new capacitor '71 Sprague capacitors (values painted in black up) Date on '71 cabinet '69 woofers '71 woofers '
  7. If you lift the edge of the foam, and you can help yourself with a spatula, screwdriver, card or other atraumatic objects (take advantage to also check the foam nearby, even here continue the gluing), clean the metal and the portion of the ring, also put the glue that was discussed above, wait for the time of gluing and pressing occasionally the gluing area with the fingers to ensure excellent adhesion. The foam will return to adhere to the whole circumference as it was originally. Also check the other woofer and do the same job if necessary as the first one. Giorgio
  8. On left original AS-2a masonite panel Perform all the holes in the same position and diameter New panel with writings and mounted pots Back side AS-2a with original masonite AS-2a back side with reconstructed masonite
  9. Hi Teknofossil, DonT long ago published on my request the AR3-st scheme, under the photos You find the thread by typing: original AR paperwork I have! I also used AR-1MS to make a medium / high section only to the AR2 woofer (I still have to attenuate the small AR-1MS with appropriate resistances!), Find the thread in the Mods section (moved there by moderator Genek!) Under the title: AR-2t I hope I've been helpful Giorgio
  10. Another great piece to understand AR mids, this paper explains in a simple way the evolution, the "universality", the versatility and the greatness of this wonderful instrument, and also because, to date, in the form of a replica more or less equal to the original keeps its charm intact.
  11. P.S: regarding the use of the Midwest midrange, here are the photos of a good use that has been made of this component, the photos have been taken from the auction site.
  12. Hi ra.ra, first of all, in this mid, there is only the presence of the double paper adhesive on the outside of the flange, then if you look at the dome of the mid, after removing the plastic horn, around you see a glue ring transparent often with the shape of the inner ring of the plastic horn that pressed over it impressing the shape: at that point the plastic horn was not glued, adhered only (I think it was left to harden the glue until a certain time to thicken the dome fabric and then later flattened by the addition of the platic horn to perfectly seal the two flanges. Secondly, I have a wife who works in a dental office and brings me the tools that are no longer in use (because they are old or no longer perfectly functional for the original work), so old spatulas, hooks and special pliers. The beauty of these instruments is the fact that they end up slightly rounded, so they do not scratch or engrave metal, plastic or anything else. I am attaching photos of some spatulas (these are also very useful for refoaming both to remove the foam from the cone, and to remove it from the metal basket), the instrument below (and in particular) is a small retractor and is phenomenal for: removing the speakers from the baffle, special ones those with sealant like gaskets without ruining anything, and to remove the glued grilles (using the longest side), paired with other spatulas to help! Giorgio
  13. Done! First I heated the mid at around 40 ° C, then with the dentist's instrument, a small atraumatic spatula, I raised and unglued the double-sided adhesive frame that unites the plastic horn to the mid flange (I think it is the same type used on the AR10 late tweeter and AR11 with the upper foam ring!). I also measured the thickness of the paper which is 0.2 mm. Total time for removal (except the additional 20 min. For heating the mid) about 2/3 minutes. Thank you ra.ra, and I hope this work is useful to the enthusiasts! AR. Here below the sequence and details
  14. Ra.ra, rereading yours first answer, apart from the classification, the reported differences between the various types of mids useful to clarify the correct use in the speakers that need to replace mid units, I have thought about your statement that RoyC has removed from one of these mid the plastic horn! I could have done the same and then replaced the two types of plastic horns, it's too late, but now I am going to remove this detail from my 200044 with the broken magnet. Then I will publish the photos of the removal works and the separate components. Thanks for the great input Giorgio
  15. Thanks IARrybody, splendid work, thanks for the report on the comparison of the listening between 2 speakers similar but not equal (before / after changes simultaneously). I really appreciate the use you have made of quality bipolar electrolytic capacitors (up to now I used expensive and large polyester), I am more and more convinced to use this type of capacitors myself! Since you've handled both AR3a and AR11 lately, I renew to you the request to listen to your renewed and improved AR58 with mids and tweeters both at -6db and another step at -3db, I ask you this because you have the chance to soften the range medium high and the reason why I want to make the same change to my AR58 is to be able to make them sound similar to AR3a (certainly not the same for many reasons, but I want to bring all my 12" speakers closer to the AR3a specifications). Thanks to your help, I can first know the result that I can get with your change.
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