lARrybody

I would use Aleene's Tacky Glue on the surrounds definitely. As far as reattaching the spider maybe some form of epoxy may be in order. People that recone speakers would know the correct adhesive. I have a pair with front wired midranges and a pair with rear wired midranges which I believe came later. Could we see a picture of the back side of your woofers and especially the id tag. The 18 count lambswool linen from 123stitch would be perfect for your speakers.

Hey Peter, I am thru using these aetna-pollak pots anymore. Send me a PM with your address and I will drop a good wiper in the mail tomorrow.

These 25's are how I acquired the near perfect foam grills for my AR 15's. With a 1982 date stamped inside the cabinets, the 25's must of bridged the time gap between the ADD series and the AR9 series bookshelf speakers. To bad they did not have the wood veneer of the AR 15 and 17.

I misspoke about the spring loaded speaker clips, mine had or have the same screw post as Richards and Bens. I just like banana plugs on my speaker wires. Neither of mine have or had the toggle attenuation switches like your guys. I have AR 18 speaker examples with and without the switches. Ben, your stuffing appears to be fiberglass. I have European manufactured AR speakers with a blue grey polyester acoustic stuffing. AR used all three types. The AR 25 used the 004 tweeter which I find to be a little bright, thus the addition of the lpad. The 038 tweeter used in the AR18S and characterized by the s shaped leads is basically the same with a little higher output. The original woofer (20001-1)is a little hard to find, but the (200037-0) woofer used in the AR18S and 18B are far more prevalent and are very close in specifications. On the left is a original AR25 woofer and on the right are two AR18S woofers that I have refoamed and changed to the doubble dust cap configuration of the previous.

Sorry it took me a extra day to get back to you. This is from a pair I found last summer at a garage sale. The woofers are not original, but everything else looks right. There was no gasket between the baffle and the replacement woofer. Two pieces of poly fill. Weighs 180 grams (6.3 ounces) I am sure there are different densities of poly fill, but this looks like the stuff you can get a a fabric store. Typical red end black electrolite I see in most all ADD speakers. Notice the 1982 date. Got to love those uncomplicated crossovers. The 25 fits somewhere in between the ADD series and the S series. On my restored pair I used a 6uf Erse PluseX cap and added a lpad on the tweeter. Also replaced the spring loaded clips with some binding post. Great sounding speakers. I listen to them a lot.

Tonight when I get home from work I will pull out a extra pair of25's I have and weigh the amount of poly fill. The little dent in the tweeter dust cap won't affect its performance.

We all will be interested in what you find when you get them in your possession. As far as the bigger house, many of my empty nester friends are always talking about downsizing and simplifying their lives. To me a bigger house would mean more room for more stuff, especially AR speakers.

The jury is still out on the bypass caps. Some members swear by them, while others say that bypassing Metalized Polypropylene Caps has little or no effect. Some say they take the harshness out of Electrolytic Caps. I just don't know. My 12's sounded good with the original electrolytes, which were not that far out of spec. I A-B them before the second speaker was recapped and the new caps did have more midrange and treble presence and detail. Maybe a bit more crisp, but the originals sounded pretty darn good to me. Some pictures of your 12's wood be cool. Enjoy them as everybody that has them only has good things to say. Currently working on a pair of nice original 48S speakers and I can't wait to compare them.

Hey David, just make something like this and leave the binding post original. Which version do you have? Mine are the early ones with the brass name plates. I too used Dayton capacitors with film and foil bypass capps.

You can make them work front wired.

Does the difference between a 4 ohm and 8 ohm midrange have something to do with the windings of the voice coil?

I use Shoe Goo to hold down capacitors and resistors to crossover boards.

If you are looking for AR 91 crossovers for your 58S's check that they are actually 91 boards. AR used the same Masonite boards for the AR 91 and AR92, although the components are different. Some online sellers don't realize this and advertise them incorrectly. I did not realize this till Stimpy (I think) set me straight. I was lucky and got the correct 91 boards.

It is the same one I have. Probably got it from you. I wonder why the 6th 20 ohm resister is not listed?

A lot of people use these as AR4X replacement tweeters. Had a set with one bad tweeter so I bought these, but eventually found a original which I used instead. Don't know how they perform, but they have good reviews. https://www.parts-express.com/grs-prt-8-phenolic-ring-tweeter-replacement-for-ar-4x-cts-marantz-and-more-8-ohm--270-252 I will eventually find a project to use them on.

I too recently found some AR 12s. They also have replacement non AR woofers,but the correct and fully functional tweeters and mids. I can't believe how good they sound,even with replacement woofers. I believe mine are also UK built. Do yours have the speckled paint on the backs? Peaked at the crossovers and they appear original, yet they sound awesome.

Try these two alternative sources. http://shopping.na3.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.650256/it.A/id.621/.f?sc=15&category=766 https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/wirewound-25-watt/25-ohm-25-watt-wirewound-resistor/ Or I can send you a couple of the Parts Express resisters. PM me.

Good idea Air is not much of an issue. You can attach them with an adhesive like Goop. Avoid hot melt wax--the high heat is bad for the caps. One neat way is to use ny-ties and a mounting block. 18 AWG. Tinned wire (aka marine grade) is best. A lot of people here are aware of how I like to hide the new caps inside the wax box, but not always. Here is a picture of some 2a's where I left the original cap box and mounted the new caps to the side. The nylon mounting blocks can be found here. https://www.parts-express.com/cable-wire-tie-adhesive-1-mount-50-lb-tensile-10-pcs-black--080-518 I have used the adhesive ones and also with short screws. Just make sure the material you are going into is thick enough for the screw length. I have also seen these mounting blocks at Home Depot. As far as the wire gauge, Kent is right about using 18 gauge. I am of the philosophy that bigger is always better so in the picture above I use 16 gauge and wind up splitting the conductor filaments to get them thru the tiny tab holes in the potentiometers. The idea of replacing the disk is interesting. I have a bag full of originals with pitted and missing metal on the disk edges. Believe it or not most of the wipers are in good shape.

Here is what a google search turned out. http://www.randolphproducts.com/products/industrial-coatings/#ecl It is definitely not a flat black. Not really a black black. It does have a slight luster. I recently used some chalkboard black on some AR 6 baffles. Now that is a black black. If the paint doesn't match perfectly it would not be too hard to do the entire back and base. I was just going to use a sharpie on the little rub on one of my backs.

Howards RAF comes in 9 colors. My cabinets were in such good condition I used a very light application of the walnut and immediately wiped it off. I did not notice that it darkened the veneer very much. They do have a neutral shade that may be a good choice. What I did notice is that the veneer had a slight color variation where to side woofer covers are. Probably due to years of sunlight. I does not bother me with the covers installed. Forget about the Pledge. The Howards Feed and Wax is a excellent product and makes a big difference. We use it on our Cherry veneer kitchen cabinets with great results.

Welcome to the AR 9 club. A nice set of 10pi's to boot. You must have a large vehicle to haul all that. I used a 5' hand truck to move my 9's into the house. Here are the products I used to clean and spruce up the cabinets. There is a lot of information and opinions on restoring and recapping the 9's. I just had to sort thru it and decide what direction I wanted to go. It will keep you busy for a while. Congratulations again on your double find.

Congratulations on a job well done. Those 4x's are really nice. Did not realize till near the end of this thread that you are obviously a vintage stereo guy. I like your choices on the turntables. Those German idler drive turntables are really nice, especially when you get the balance between the lubrication and the friction correct. On the receiver I also like the Realistic receiver. I have a real nice STA-860 my nephew recently gave back to me because he wanted something with a remote control. What does he know? Almost any vintage 20-40 watt receiver is going to sound good with those speakers. Some that come to mind are the Marantz 2230, Harman Kardon 630 and Pioneer 780. Good luck with those turntables.

Yes he was involved. A lot of those tweeters were in fact designed by Mr. Allison. My favorite cone tweeter.

The crossover drawing I posted does have one flaw in the labeling of the terminals, although the wiring is correct. The 1-2-3 was meant to relate to the original pot terminals and should be labeled 1-B-2 instead. I will correct the sketch. The knob supplied with the l-pads does not evan look like it belongs with the 4X speakers. I used these which are about 3/4 in tall and 1/2 in in diameter. They have a set screw so you don't have to push them on and it is easy to align with the shaft travel. https://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-z408601-basic-amplifier-knob-black--240-208 If you really want to get authentic you can see if JKent has any of the original reproductions left. I don't think 4X's originally came with knobs, but it is a nice touch. When it comes to the finish here is my opinion. Get a small can of the Watco Natural Danish oil finish and apply at least 2-3 coates. Its not real danish oil, but it makes a fantastic finish. I try to stay away from anything with any color added. Just my opinion.Here are some 2ax's with that finish.

Use the L-pads. Make the crossover like this. Easy Peasy