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DavidR

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About DavidR

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  • Birthday 06/21/1951

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  1. If you dribble a small of isopropyl rubbing alcohol on the old glue that holds down the caps and wait 5 to 10 mins. It will help release the caps. I used a small screw drive to get under the glue and pry it up. When you start replacing work from the left back and then right back and work forward. DO NOT BE IN A HURRY - TAKE YOUR TIME !!!!!!
  2. Yes, the Vishay do need to have longer leads soldered on. I bought a lot as they were a buck a piece. When they are used up that's it. I've used the Dayton F&F and they do the job quite well. I like the Cornell-Dublier 940C 0.01 and 0.1uF too but they cost a bit more.
  3. A little hint that may help soldering in new parts. The 10Pi crossover has lots of wires in the middle of the cabinet and the attach point is at the base of those wires. So if you recap with the boards in place like I prefer to do I found that when I snipped the leads of the old caps I ALWAYS left as much of the old lead as possible and attached the new cap lead to that old lead. I chose to go all electrolytic because I wanted them to be as designed with NPE caps. However, I did put a small polypropylene film cap (Vishay 1837 0.01uF ) in parallel with each series cap. I liked the results so much I did my AR90s the same way. But I only did the series caps this way.
  4. Yes, Madisound does carry a 1000uF electrolytic >>> https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/m.d.l.-electrolytic-capacitor-100vdc/mdl-1000-mfd-non-polar-electrolytic-capacitor-100v/ Meniscus is a crap shoot with what you will get for an electrolytic brand. The picture they use does not always equate to what you get. Sometimes they send a Black Beauty; the same brand Parts Express sells and you will pay a lot more to Meniscus.
  5. Usually they are still good and very close to stated value. However, the Mills are quieter. The 15 ohm was not easy to get to and solder. https://www.partsconnexion.com/MILLS-71917.html https://www.partsconnexion.com/MILLS-64055.html
  6. The 3 PVC black with red ends and the 2 metal can capacitors. 10uF, 20uF, 40uF, 100uF and 2500uF. The 2500 has a resistor across it that you should replace with a Mills brand. For the 2500uF you will need to solder 2x1000 + 1x500uF together in parallel. Madisound or Parts Connextion will have caps.
  7. Do we have any members down there that could help bb57 ?
  8. No, I have a Mk2. I googled AR10Pi and went to images. I found several with Sprague caps. Here's a pic before the recap >
  9. I thought some of the early versions had Sprague but not the MkII.
  10. I restored the crossover in my 10Pi and they sound wonderful. I did them with the crossovers in place. Some solder points were difficult due to all the wiring but I never scorched a wire sleeve. I'm in the metrowest area of MAsshole
  11. To help you with the capacitor selection I used NPE on my 10Pi and all film on my 91 speakers. There is very little difference if any at all. Perhaps a tad more detail with the film caps. However, on the 10Pi series caps (tweeter 10Uf and mid 40uF) I used a Vishay 0.01uF film cap in parallel. The 10Pi has Mundorf ECap and Bennic. The 91's have Clarity CSA 3.9uF with an AudioCap Theta 0.1uF bypass cap and on the midrange a Clarity 25uF CSA with a 0.01uF Cornell-Dublier 940C bypass cap. All the shunt caps are Dayton.
  12. I think film caps would be too large to fit and you'd have to bundle quite a few to get to the desired value. For Non Polar Electrolytic your choices are few. F&T who makes caps for Mundorf and Jantzen don't have the voltage rating in the large sizes - only 35VDC vs the 60VAC for the Callins originals. So from there you have to bundle Bennic, MDL or Parts Express/Black Beauty.
  13. It wasn't a link. It WAS an embedded picture. I'll see if I can fix it.
  14. How does the L-pad work (inside construction) vs. a pot ?
  15. Here's a pic of my 10Pi that I recapped. I used the Bennic 1000 x 2 + 500uF in parallel. MDL also makes these large NPE caps.
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