scottie munoz

Thank you for the response. If you would t mind, I'm not familiar with ferro powder. Would you provide some more product info, ( how does it compare to fluid?) lastly , specific brand, where might you purchase the mixture you mentioned You do seem to be the resident tweeter guy, ( a complenent). What is your methodology for a) removing old fluid and b) how to best determine the correct amount to replace. Many retailers of magnetic fluid sell individual "dose " packets that are based on the size of the tweeters vc. i.e. a .75" dome tweeter would get amount "x" amount. A 1.5" dome tweeter would get 2 x "x" amount for example. Is this best practice? Thanks Scottie

This a new thread in response to an old one, which can be seen here: https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/20113-aged-ferro-fluid-in-hf-drivers-possibilities-of-ways-to-test/ And commented on here.... https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/20113-aged-ferro-fluid-in-hf-drivers-possibilities-of-ways-to-test/#findComment-149500 _____________________ Firstly, I'm curious which if the various methods you used to remove the old fluid? My first inclination to attempt to answer your question about the variances in impedance before and after fluid replacement would be the fluid itself and it's specific characteristics relative to the fluid AR used and tested then, are what's giving the impedance differences. Very much related- as it has been explained to me by Ken Kantor, not all "magnetic fluid is created equal." I know the specific spec'd fluid for the NHT towers he designed, but still looking for 303 series , or any othr AR for that matter. I have no learned basis for my possible answer, other than on more than a few occasions, my having a set of NOS drivers AB tested versus a set of the same driver with fluid that has been replaced. I also got wildly and not consistent results between various types of drivers and impedance differences. ______________ Further deduction in solving for "fluid issues"...we do know from design notes....that because the 9/90 required the 1.5" dome mid to only go down to 1200 Hertz as opposed to the very similar AR 91/92/58S mid having a 700hz low end spec. The use of fluid on either side of the coil is apparently the means of affecting the limits of the drivers freq. response. I have to believe this factor would play into the answer to your queries. That differences between the set of drivers with replaced fluid and the AR published spec's impedance curve- thus overall spl of driver ( correct me if I'm off here) ... Which is an even bigger beast than I would think relatively minor audible "sound" outside of spl....I would conclude these impedance differences you report are not insignificant at all. I spent I spent a lot of time thinking about this an it makes me wonder if fluid cooled drivers could ever be refurbished to oem status. That is unless somebody knows that exact spec of the fluid AR used in these various drivers and/or "time machine invention", haha! So if your goal is returning the driver to its original OEM sound ( that's mine. (If that is not your restoration goal, that's fine. See post script below). I've used drivers replaced with fluid you can buy from any number of places. But, considering I was 8-years-old when the ar-9 was released...) ***I have no idea if various spec'd fluids and amount used ( and how precise must this amount be?)... changes the acoustic characteristics of the driver to the point of audible difference or not.*** Highest on my personal list of knowledge I wish I had.... what specific fluid was used in the case of the AR12 mid. This super unique- ostensibly cone driver- whose VC floated in mag. fluid. No spider required. "The magical mid" aka " the one year wonder") aka ("third favorite AR three way to my ears.") ... Very often has gunked up fluid that needs to be replaced. Having refurbished three sets of 12's and with three more sets in my inventory, and being an originalist refurbisher...I would like to truly know that I'm replacing the fluid with what AR originally used or closest to. I'd also like to be able to state that my refurbs are fully oem in parts and sound. I cannot do this with my ar-12 refurbs due to this fact. Any professional or hobbyist comments on the magnetic fluid spec affecting the acoustic characteristics of the driver? And to what degree? Because the ar-12 mid needs so much fluid, In my mind the wrong fluid or amount would make the most audible difference, away from the OEM sound signature. This is going to become a fairly larger issue in the coming years as even more fluid cooled tweeters "age out". ( See 10pi enthusiasts preference for the original creme/yellow domed no fluid cooled tweets vs more recent but fluid cooled black fabric domed tweets.) Lastly, anyone with a list of each fluid cooled AR tweet and amount of fluid required? ***(As it was explained to me by Ken.. "ferro-fluid" was just a brand of magnetic fluid early on that "won". ( See " history is written by the victors...") Sorta how in the south , all carbonated beverages are "Coke"....) (Thanks for straightening me out Ken. One more thing.. sub bass cannot accurately be described as being, "fast" or "speedy" everyone. Thanks again Ken.) -Scottie Napier-Munoz

I have a couple sets , yes.

I'd love to take a crack on these Allison woofers. "Reconing means different things to different folks? Do they just sound bad? Surrounds) spider been replaced? Actual cones got any rips tears? If your offering. Tell me wear I could send shipping cost to. Id like them please. Scottie

I never had a direct conversation with Steve. However when I joined 4 years ago, through extensive readings of past threads, I'd count Steve as one of a half dozen or so members who I owe a great deal of appreciation and respect for what he's done for me. I regret never having a direct conversation with your father. Please accept my condolences and know your father was a massive benefit to my life. You and your family will be in my prayers. - Scottie Napier-Muñoz

I'm gonna jump in here. I saw this topic some time ago and recently, I removed the grills off a couple sets of 2AX mid tweeters ( soaking any cage whether it's an AR-3A or 2AX mid-sweeter and methyl echyl (sp) solvent removes that epoxy like nothing else. I then use a reasonable amount of clear epoxy theory attached and a lot better But that's besides the point. Long story short I had a NOS 4x tweeter sitting next to me. And without the cage and insulation of the 2AX mids here I was able to see the diameters for what they were and their identical. The 2ax mid/tweeter is also used as the tweet in the AR-2X. Could this be a possible replacement? Impedance are the same. They're both cones and as far as fit in the hole would be a drop in replacement. *** I just went back and saw that recently "reliablebillI" ( who seems to know his stuff but damn it, learn to play well with others man) I guess he didn't have his 4x's yet ( which makes me wonder what the point of this was to begin with If you didn't have a set of 4x's why were you looking for a replacement tweeter for the 4x, and or getting everybody rolled up with the PRT situation anyways) yet so he was using a 2AX with the Super Tweeter disabled to see if the PRT would work blah blah blah, when is it was sort of on the nose that the next response was mine having not read that suggesting the use of the 2AX mid-tweeter as an actual replacement. which is sort of on the nose considering I'm suggesting actually using that mid tweeter as a replacement itself? I do recognize I don't believe that mid-tweeter would go up much further... It def. doesn't go up to 20K. somebody else probably knows the answer. There's a ton of them around and their cheap as well curious anybody else's thoughts as a 4x replacement. Second thing is like I said I have a single NOS 4X Tweeter, (You know that I think about it I actually own a set of Nos 2ax mid tweeters as well) still in the shipping container If anybody wants to use that as a reference in this project as opposed to these degraded 4x tweeters, I'd be willing to let someone use it to test. Scottie

That's what I was hoping for. Thanks Roy, been a while!

This was The only picture and the other information given it even cuts off the "3" pin. And by the way when looking at it through the wet Facebook marketplace website or app it looks even smaller than this. As it turns oh is a fellow works for a moving company. He says they give him this kinda stuff so often, his bosses can't won't let him keep it and they can't get rid of fast enough. He also doesn't know what it is he was old. He told me the listing was up for 3 hours until I saw that was the first person to call and the next 8 hours he said he got 115 phone calls. T that night I went to bed with him saying he was going to decide the next day. 7:00 a.m. next morning he texted me and said he wanted to sell them to me. No I didn't pay $50, obviously. When I talked to him at noon is when he said he would cut it off.It was up to a $1500 offer to ship, I sold them to me for $700! I leveled with him a bit regarding their value...okay the number I through out was maybe 2/3ds the value of this set it 3s in general, but who would have even done that? I know, rationalizing bad behavior...haha! With the unobtanium fabric grill. Both "3" pins. And cabinets... I've been doing this for a little while. I probably seen three or four dozen 3 or 3a sets in my short career. These are by far the best looking cabinets I've seen before refurbishment of either 3A or 3 I've ever seen, I and these are early 3's. The guy said the owner told him they sat for 40 years. Each speaker reads 2.4 ohms dcr at the terminals. One mid 2.3, the other 2.8... Tweeter question? The DCR of the tweet outside the system is roughly 2.4 on my 3 like tweets But both tweets measure 1.8 ohms. Because they're exact it makes me wonder if the DCR is affected because it's a part of the system when measurrd. is there any of validity to that? So I put a small signal through. Each driver makes sound, I haven't pushed it passed a couple dbs to know if output is low on mids and tweets. I've never seen any that weren't however. Just a set with no open circuit drivers is a good day. Consecutive serial numbers, even better! ( I think, look at 2nd from last digit on either? What do you think?). It's close. Not bragging, just wanted to share the bit of luck with y'all I don't normally get. ( No idea how I got them? Or recognized that pic. Imagine seeing an image held that big? Could you pick that out?

No, I'm not sure they're original. Only that badging on the inside of the doors appears to be. That would answer a lot of questions actually. I never realized the doors would be solid. Great suggestion. Thanks!

I attempted to do just this in a different post but I was not very Tell me with the pictures or terribly clear about what else looking for help with. 1) Yes it's clear I've done incredible amount of research and they only came in Walnut doors 2) so the previous owner revenired them with zebra wood and this it's a good job that it's hard to tell that they were reveneered. 3) The biggest question is could have been here over this or what other options would I have? 4). What would be a process to try to get the doors the new veneer on the doors to match the existing Walnut? 5). How would you go about fixing the hinge holes that are sort of come apart. Thanks for your time. Scottie Ps... Anybody have a picture of the original brown foam grills I've got black foam but these are early version and another brown.

I have quite a few. Say $30 for one? I'll send pics.

Thanks John. I appreciate that. Your a good man

These are perfectly functioning tweeters. But I understand the sentiment. It's a strange world... Csp or other forums. As a youngester in comparison, I spend most of my time reading back posts. Ra.ra has been here all doing through his posts. And I missed , if there was one. A statement of his passing. Forgive. Me, I grieved a little in that moment. Going all the way back at the archives go. I'm not always hip to what's current. MY KNEE JERK REACTION when You SIMPLY MADE A GREAT POST remembering a friend by, I take it as an " Announcement.". My apologizes. Scottie There should really be a separate area for current passing's. I know at 42, y'all got me beat by a decade or 5. I consider reading your posts the last 20 plus years...something. I don't know what, but I try not cynical, and to say that times learning from you in the past was " nothing". Would define "cynical." fro I gotta think of a man I've spent reading their posts the last 20 so years of their life, even if I never had a direct word with you, at least an acquaintance. I always have a special place in my memory, my heart for anyone , friend, foe or acquaintance.... That taught me a skill. A skill or piece of information or wisdom that I can pass along to my sons, which includes 2-3 dozen of you. You've given me, a chance to live when I didn't think I could when I came home from my second tour in Iraq snd quickly realized I was not ok....an verly dramatic story for amother overwrought post. I suppose.A few of you know anyhow.

I'm terribly sorry. I didn't have many direct conversations with him. But I did purchase a set of ar25's recently, thinking of I post a refurb of them, id be sure to get a comment from him. I had that thought as I was paying for them. Can I ask, did he pass some time ago and I missed it. Recently? To the OP: I'll send you a set of ar-7 nos tweets gratis, they're rear wired , but I'll modify that if you prefer to keep the front. Be good brother. I'm sorry. I pride myself on knowing this. But.. at anyway. 20005's or 200014-3, whichever the first ar-7 tweet was. They are yours. A gift. Scottie https://photos.app.goo.gl/4i464EK789EF7R4i8