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Norman Nicolai

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About Norman Nicolai

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  • Birthday August 13

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    nnicola@verizon.net

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bloomfield, NJ
  • Interests
    Vintage Fisher, Sherwood, and Harman Kardon receivers, AR turntables, KLH, AR, Advent, EPI, and Paradigm loudspeakers.

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  1. Thanks, Roy. That clears it up for me. The photos online seem to match my my wiring scheme, but as a novice I didn't want to start putting things together and soldering without a clarification.
  2. I’m a little confused about something. In the L-pad wiring photos from both RoyC and IARrybody there is only one green wire coming off B/2, in addition to the resistor wire. Because of the wire colors I am assuming it’s the mid L-pot. My old Mid L-pot has 2 green wires coming off it, one to the (-) neg terminal on the midrange speaker, and a second wire going to the T terminal on the back of the cabinet. Did I miss something? Thanks.
  3. Thanks, JKent! The photo is very useful. I am hoping the replacement tweeters will be delivered in less than a week. Do you have an opinion about replacing the fiberglass batting inside the cabinets with newer, more modern fiberglass?
  4. I’ve discovered that both tweeters on the AR-2ax speakers I’m restoring are not working. I have been following another recent thread on this site so I ordered two HiVi Q1R tweeters along with two 0.05 mH inductor coils from PExpress as replacement tweeters. That purchase has led to a few more questions: 1. The replacement tweeters are wired to the back. Other than looking like original AR tweeters, is there any reason to have them front wired? 2. How is the inductor coil wired into the crossover or the new tweeter? 3. I thought I read on some other thread that you do not have to wire the 10W 25ohm resistor to the replacement tweeter L-pad if you replace the original tweeter with HiVi Q1R tweeter. Is that correct? Thanks, and please feel free to chime in if you have any other advice about using the HiVi Q1R tweeter.
  5. Got it, thanks. They did come with instructions from Vintage-AR.
  6. Norman Nicolai

    Epi M50

    Nice looking speakers Woofer_01. I’m sure they sound great too. You might want to consider changing the single 10 microfarad capacitor in the crossover since it’s at least 40 years old. I have a set of M100’s with walnut cabinets that I’m really thrilled with. They both look and sound terrific. I’ve been on the hunt for a set of M50’s online for about a year and would love to get a pair at a reasonable price someday. According to Huw Powell at the Human Speakers website, some of the early model EPI speakers were sometimes badged as Epicure and “...no one knows why.” Good luck with them and thanks for posting photos!
  7. Thanks to everyone for your help! I just ordered the resistors online and should have them by mid-week. If not for Aadams I would not have known about adding the resistor. IARrybody and RoyC’s photos helped too. (BTW, love your goo, RoyC...I assume that’s your stuff I use on my speaker surrounds. I have 4 sets of vintage KLH speakers and they wouldn’t sound as good as they do if not for your famous concoction!) I completed re-foaming the woofers a few days ago, so this project is tracking nicely. I’ll post again after the L-pads are installed and everything is reassembled. I’ve also decided to do a more extensive refinishing on the cabinets even though they are in pretty decent shape, so it may be awhile before I’m back with the next report. I just can’t help myself when it comes to the cabinets. I started down this road initially working on speaker cabinets. Pulling speakers and working on the electronics inside the cabinets is a more recent venture, as evidenced by my lack of knowledge. Again, I appreciate all the help. As this is my first AR speaker project, I’m psyched and looking forward to actually listening to them!
  8. I guess I need to go to the Parts Express website and order additional material... Do you have a link to a schematic that shows where to wire the resistors in? Again, thanks for your help!
  9. They’re called “Level Controls” by the same vendor that sells Roy’s Goo online. I assumed they were considered L-pads. Is there a difference and should I have gotten a different product? Thanks for your help!
  10. I am in the middle of replacing my speakersL-pad. The L-pad I am removing has a wire (looks like speaker wire) connecting the #1 and #B terminals. I don’t see it on the schematic I am using. (With my limited electronic reading skills, I should add...) I’m assuming that the previous owner had problems with the existing L-pad and wired them in the “full on” position, rendering them useless. Is that a correct reading, and should I not replace that wire? Thanks!
  11. Just curious if the AR power recommendations could have been IHF ratings and not RMS? Prior to 1974 when the FTC intervened, most HiFi manufacturers rated their their amps using IHF guidelines which were not nearly as demanding as the RMS ratings. Once the FTC guidelines took effect, everyone's power ratings dropped around 40%. The dates above are 1954-1974. Do you think the AR instructions could refer to IHF power ratings? If so, 30 WPC might actually be closer to 20 WPC.
  12. Interesting question! I purchased my first pair of AR speakers last week, coincidentally a pair of AR-2Ax speakers. I've re-foamed the woofers and ordered new capacitors and L-caps. They should arrive this week so I'm hoping to to have everything assembled and ready for use by the weekend. So, here's my question, which should be right on-topic and help with the discussion by adding some specific choices. Which of my receivers/amps will pair best with a pair of AR-2ax's? Fisher 500C Fisher 500B Fisher 400 Sherwood S8000IV Monobloc Heathkit W5M's w/Advent 300 used as preamp Sansui 8010 receiver (Solid State 40 WPC) Harman Kardon HK3490 (SS 120 WPC) BTW, in answer to the Jim Pierce question, I've always assumed that the tweeters should be positioned on the inside, closer together, and woofers on the outside, further apart. My rationale has always been that the lower frequencies need more separation to give a stereo effect, while less distance/separation is needed for stereo with higher frequencies.
  13. I just finished restoring my second set of KLH Model 17 speakers. I refinished the cabinets, replaced the capacitors and speaker wiring, sealed the woofers with Roy’s Goo, and replaced the binding posts using rubber grommets to isolate the posts from the metal back of the cabinet (Hat tip to JKent). I did not replace the fabric on the grills. They were in pretty good shape and keeping them seemed to augment the vintage look. Some before and after photos:
  14. I just finished restoring my second set of KLH Model 17 speakers. I refinished the cabinets, replaced the capacitors and speaker wiring, sealed the woofers with Roy’s Goo, and replaced the binding posts using rubber grommets to isolate the posts from the metal back of the cabinet (Hat tip to JKent). I did not replace the fabric on the grills. They were in pretty good shape and keeping them seemed to augment the vintage look. Some before and after photos:
  15. Thanks for the welcome to the AR Forum, Aadams, and thanks for your input on the L-pads. Yeah, the cabinets are in great shape and even the grills are perfect. They are not the Holy Grail of AR-3a's or Ar-11's, but I'm not sure any of my receivers have enough power to handle the demands of a power hungry 4 ohm speaker anyway. Most of my stuff is tube in the 25-35 wpc range. I've read that early AR's work better with higher power SS equipment and I have one Harman Kardon SS receiver that cranks out 120 wpc. I'll probably pair the AR-2ax's with that. Thanks, and I hope to post my progress as I rebuild them.
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