Jump to content

Pete B

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Pete B

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Connecticut, NE USA
  • Interests
    Interest in Audio for over 30 years, got started early
    Electrical Engineer (see my web site link)

Recent Profile Visitors

18,936 profile views

Pete B's Achievements


Rookie (2/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Dedicated Rare

Recent Badges



  1. What model tweeter is in the XL, it is different from the non-XL version. Madisound might have a suggestion, they did for the non version.
  2. @brianw Did you ever get plates made for a replacement tweeter? Sorry, got distracted with other projects and never posted the AR9 tweeter measurements. Both of my tweeters measured fine with an ohm meter. The foam gaskets were hanging off the back and stuck to the face plate in a few spots. I pulled them off and now on tweeter measures open circuit, perhaps there was glue on the lead in wire - don't know for sure. Anyway, here's more on the 3D printer that I've been using:
  3. The YouTube person who complained about stringing got a lot of comments from other users who pointed out that one free "slicer" program works best with the Ender printers and that's what I use. No problems with stringing at all. I began to have trouble with the first layer sticking to the bed after about 50 prints. The Ender printers have a unique sandpaper like finish on the print bed, other people print on a smooth surface, some even use glass for flatness. One of the first things you'll learn when printing on smooth beds is that you need to help the first layer stick, many use glue stick, some use hair spray. I did not need anything for the first 50 prints or so and I've come to the conclusion that some of the rough surface has worn off so now I use glue stick and it works perfectly again.
  4. Ah okay, thanks Roy good to see you on here, all the best!
  5. Burnt FF causes diminished output and/or a rise in the moving systems resonant frequency. Where did you get that replacement center dome? I have a working NLA tweeter with a smashed dome. I agree that if you cut the dome off, you can certainly add the FF inside the VC, and if a tiny hole was cut into the VC former a needle injector could be used to put some FF on the outside where it is really needed. The other issue is how to remove the old FF? I wonder if those glued on center domes have the same response as the originals.
  6. Bump, has anyone removed a tweeter for transplant? Also, does anyone know if there were any changes to the shape from the early AR3a to the last version? Pete
  7. Pete B

    Sad news

    Very sorry to hear this, he helped me several times by pointing out literature in the library. He was far too young. RIP Robert Pete Basel
  8. I tried to open them up here without much success. Is there a materials person who might know how the paper could be treated to make it less brittle? Or was it designed to be stiff and brittle from the start? https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/disassembling-new-large-advent-nla-tweeters.953989/
  9. I'm a bit late here but very nice work. That is a very low Fc of 40.5 Hz with just the right Qtc. I documented the crossovers and listed the NLA woofer inductor with a much lower value than the OLA which has the powdered iron core inductor: http://baselaudiolab.com/ADVENT_LA_XO.html
  10. Hi Pete!  Do you have any White Supra Cable remaining?  Thanks, Steve

  11. @Giorgio AR Those are nice pictures of the woofers. Does anyone know the correct part number for the AR-6 woofer? There is mention on here that the Xmax was quite high, higher than the other 8" woofers: Also was there a ceramic magnet version of the AR-6 woofer?
  12. I would guess that it can be changed but it would not be an easy job. I have a blown NLA tweeter that I believe was driven so hard that the insulation broke down and the voice coil shorted, then the current went way up and the red donut part of the cone was burnt brown under the tinsel lead in wire. I want to take a look inside and the red paper lip at the outer edge is already lifted about 1/3 of the way around. Not sure what to use to release the rest of the glue. Acetone or MEK perhaps.
  13. This is in the library as multiple .jpg s, does anyone have it in .pdf? I seem to remember seeing it years ago. It mentions measuring the DC resistance of the tweeter and tweeter inductors to test for burnout.
  14. Pete B

    OLAs again

    Here's 18 TPI Irish Linen: https://www.123stitch.com/m/18-Count-Linen-style-Cross-Stitch-Fabric Discussed many years ago in this thread: https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/2884-advent-large-grillcloth-restorationreplacement/?tab=comments#comment-67500
  • Create New...