LouB

Hi all, It has been a while since I posted anything. Hope all of you are doing well. I just got an AR AU amplifier. I plan to use this with the AR-2ax pair in the living room. It's got a bit of hummmmmm and scratchy controls. Appears to be unmolested. I downloaded the service manual but am hoping someone here has opened one of these up before. The perforated cabinet material appears to have been attached with expansion rivets to the center of heat sinks. Is there a trick to opening this up that isn't mentioned in the manual? Thanks! Lou

They appeared to be identical, measured the same, and sound great. ps: I blew the original using only a 60 watt per channel Dynaco ST-120. These tweets are a little more sensitive to high wattage than one may imagine.

The 2Ax pair had been moved up to the den after the KLH 23's kicked 'em out earlier this year. It's a small room and they're being powered by an 80's Yamaha RX-730 receiver. Being a near field listening environment I noticed that the phenolic dome tweets were no longer producing much output. Whenever I have doubts about the frequency range above 8K I enlist better ears than mine to confirm. The boss listened and agreed that they had little or nothing of the sparkling high register like the 3a's in the family room. I looked and yes, PartsExpress still has the HiVi Q1R and so I procured a pair for these boxes. I tried using a .07 uh inductor as I did with the 3a's but the independent testing lab that I called up to do a mono A/B between the two with and without the inductor had the no inductor box winning out. They're back in the den, sounding great again. One of these days I'll want to repair the crunched top rear corner on the one...

Tweeter no longer needed, found a pair of 17's locally for poco dineros.

hi all, it’s been a while. At one time I had a pair of 2x. They were given to a buddy who treated them poorly and then dumped them. Last week I found a pair of AR-2 at the thrift ( originally I had stated 2a, these are 2’s ) that someone had pulled the tweeters and direct wired a piezo tweeter mounted to a plywood board to replace the plastic AR-2 tweeter holder after yanking the crossover components. Gee, for some reason these sound super bright (!) The woofers are cloth surround and both work. I re-glued the Masonite spider and cone rings since they were starting to come loose and rattle. They also got the treatment with the butyl goop from Vintage AR. I have a pair of fiberglass pad and cage mids originally from 2ax which I believe were also used in the original 2X as tweeters. if anyone knows for sure whether these actually were the same please let me know. My intention is to recreate these as 2x but I’ll need to know what the crossover specs for the 2X were in order to cobble together another pair… The existing pots were corroded to the point where it wasn’t possible to tease them back to life. I have some 25 ohm 25 watt ohmite rheostats I can substitute. thanks! Lou

I blew the tweeter in one of my KLH 23. I need to find a replacement if anyone has one. I have a pair of AR 2ax mid range if anyone would want to swap and of course a purchase would be fine too.

I saw that there is a pair being offered ( no affiliation ) of AR-2ax in Fenton MI for anyone who's interested... The price is irresistible.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/353574477914?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D233244%26meid%3Dfd39fe447b154228bfe36c532c754400%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D353574477914%26itm%3D353574477914%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778%26brand%3DAR&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

I recently came into a pair of EV Aristocrats loaded with Knight KN612HC triaxial speakers. The cloth surrounds are a bit stiff. What would be the best goop for restoring pliability to the surrounds and the spiders that appear to be made of the same doped and formed material? What little info I have been able to glean suggests that these may have been made under contract by EV and used the same cone / suspension as the 12TRXB although the cast frame is different.

Masonite is also not the best to staple into. I use 1/4” ply, works great!

Thanks for the compliment on the case. The reason I went with solid oak was that it was so darn light without the case I couldn't push in the pushbuttons without pushing the whole thing back. The case weighs a lot more than the preamp does!

Ohmahgawd!!! When I was a teen those were just the holy grail for me. I still haven't found one in reasonable condition ( with working transformer, everything else can be fixed ) for a decent price.

That's a really attractive Crown preamp. So different in appearance from the IC-150. I really wasn't diminishing the quality of the IC-150, it's just that after recapping it I wasn't overwhelmed by it. I also had come across a D-75a at a hamfest for spare change that was a decent low power single space rackmount but the torroidal power transformer in it had a fit when an incandescent dimmer was in use on the same branch. Really bizarre mechanical hum that disappeared when the DC spikes from the dimmer weren't present. If I run into one of the above mentioned amps at a hamfest or other occasion that doesn't involve shipping one of those lead bricks I'll have to check it out.

If you do remove the cap you'll be able to visualize whether the coil is centered if you do have to re-glue the masonite ring.. There are different techniques people have for centering it if necessary, maybe the others here would like to share their personal favorites.

I like the separate power supply design of the DB. If the Dynaco had one for the PAT-4 the inductive hum issue wouldn't have been a problem.

Crap! you're right, that's the Phase linear. The Crown was resold, the Phase linear won out. ( it won the WAF anyway ) There was just something about the Crown that was a little too early solid-statey for me but everyone's tastes are different. Ahhh, A Simpson 260. I have a few. From a series 3 through an 8. Bulletproof.