meta_noia_fot

Great info. Thanks so much @AR55

Yes, thank you @fedeleluigi! So to me it appears the 1-2100450B is the Tonegen version of AR 200045 and the Tonegen version has a factory seam split (I wonder why).

Here’s a couple more photos including the seam from the back. Unlike the foam surrounds, the seam seems competently done. Nothing about the spider seems disturbed either.

I see the AR part no for the Lsi LMR is 200045. Would that be related to this driver, the 1-2100450B? I ask because all of the woofers in my pair are Tonegen-made and have the longer, alternate part no. Could the English factory have been using Tonegen drivers instead of regular AR parts?

A pair of English-made AR-9Lsi’s came my way today. The previous owner had a terrible refoam job done on the midrange and 12” woofers (but forgot the 10” woofers). They also used a brittle glue so the foam is separating easily from the cone. Before I refoam these, does anyone know if this midrange cone is correct? There is a seam split on the cone which I’ve never seen on an AR. The owner said they had been reconed but I think he meant refoamed. edit to add: The driver appears to be correct but is the cone correct? Tonegen part no. 1-2100450B

I saw that auction @frankmarsi and put in a losing bid. I was hoping to pair them with AR-2’s I’m working on but that wasn’t meant to be.

So after removing some walnut veneer from an old 3a cabinet, it didn’t match well. I decided the cleanest way to do this patch would be to buy new veneer. I got a sample pack that contains Cherry, Mahogany, Maple, Red Oak, Walnut, and White Oak. Of course they aren’t labeled so I’ve been trying to figure out which is which. Could anyone confirm I have this correct? Photo is of the 6 samples laid on top of the AR-2. I arranged them in what I believe to be the order above from left to right. The veneer on the left is the one that most closely matches the cabinet in both grain and color.

I’m also one of your “lurkers and monitors.” What engagement did you want with last night’s post? Was I supposed to ask what toppings you got on your pizza pie?

That looks great @JKent. I still need to make permanent cables for mine and I’ll think I’ll pursue your route. Nice job.

Price reduced: Now $700 if you pick up from me; $800 including delivery to Boston.

@genekHow do you apply your NGR? I read spraying is the best method but I’ve also seen a retarder can be added to extend drying time to allow brush/wipe on.

Thank you @genek. I have some tung oil and solvent on hand. I’ll look into NGR stain and reducer.

Thanks @genek. I think I would prefer a cherry stain personally. I decided that I’m going to stain these, but I haven’t done that before (Danish Oil is what I’m most familiar working with). I saw another poster in an archived thread had some really nice results with a gel stain and poly over it. I’m still early in my research on this. Do you have any recommendations? In the meantime I need to replace the caps and clean the pots. No luck on oil caps for me; they were wax blocks in mine. Tomorrow I’m going to try to replace a small missing piece of veneer on a top cabinet edge. I recently saw one of Glenn’s threads and how neat his repairs are cutting out spare pieces of veneer. I have a busted pair of Classic-era walnut cabinets I can steal a little veneer from.

Thanks. The lacquer on these cabinets is certainly going to complicate each step of this.