Lucky Pierre

I too, missed the news of Robert's passing. I was fortunate to have met Robert on more than a few occasions. I was always happy and honored to be in the AR fanboy group with him, whether in person on on the forums. Robert is missed. Peter

They are beautiful! I tried my hand at lacquering speakers last summer. Never again for me!

Very interesting, Tom. And the mystery continues...

Hi Tom, I have no doubt that a pair of ARs properly lacquered are a thing of beauty. I know the fine lacquer finish of which you speak. I have contemplated sending my AR3 cabinets to a furniture maker to have them properly re-finished. I am not sure I want the expense, though. Like I mentioned earlier, the scars on mine tell a tale. It is a tale I think I will be happy have in the collection. I just might try your suggestion on Old English Scratch Cover. On the bottom, of course, to see the results. Peter

Hi Tom, I stripped and oiled these a couple of years ago. I picked them up for $20 with rotted woofer surrounds. Peter

Greetings! I am reaching out to the font of knowledge found here as CSP. Does anyone know anything about carillon amps/systems? I am picking up this week what I think is a very rare system in exceptional condition. I have been unable to find out anything about it, other than the manufacturer was a custom chime maker from NJ in the 1940s. Any info you might have is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Peter

Hi all, Upon more research, I think I might be wrong about these being mahogany. The grain on walnut is much tighter--it looks closer to freek's earlier pictures. @FreekYou can use paint stripper and a soft brass brush to try to get as much of the paint out of the grain. If you are oiling, I recommend using something like Watco Danish Oil in either medium or dark walnut. After stripping again, I would sand from 120 to 180 grit, vacuum off all dust then clean with mineral spirits. Let dry 30-60 minutes, then apply the oil with 180 grit sandpaper for the first coat, let sit for 20-30 minutes, then wipe dry. Next day, if you still have grain to fill, apply the second coat of oil, apply with 220 grit sandpaper, wipe dry after 15-20 minutes. If you are happy with the grain after the first application, simply apply the second coat of oil with a cloth, then wipe dry after 15-20 minutes. Let oil dry for 24-48 hours. Longer is better, usually. The 220 grit can serve as you final sanding. You can go to 320 grit for the second application of oil if you want a smoother finish. After 2-3 days, apply a quality wax, then buff out. I am a fan of Howard's Feed-n-Wax. It is easy to apply, and it is easy to reapply after 12-16 months. One or two coats should suffice. BTW, when you sand the veneer without oil, collect the sanding dust you generate in a small jar. If you ever have to touch up walnut, you can mix the dust with your oil to fill defects. Peter

Hi Roy, It was in a very well ventilated garage! And I won't do it again! The key to a good lacquer refinishing job is extensive prep. Not just stripping and sanding, but thorough cleaning as well. Any remnants of anything with silicone will ruin the finish. You also have to be very patient and very exacting if you try to do this outside a climate controlled spray booth. Temp and humidity have to be just right. Sealing and sanding between coats has to be just right. The working time is really short. I feel lacquering something as large as the AR3 takes a lot of practice. I find lacquer to be a beautiful finish on the right piece. Not ARs, though. 🙂 Peter

Roy, I am curious--have you tried what I call the drench and soak method of stripping lacquer? I did this on a pair of cabinets from the 50s. I first lightly sanded the cabinets, then I laid old towels on one side and drenched the towel with lacquer thinner. I then wrapped it all in plastic wrap to keep the thinner from evaporating. After about 15-20 minutes, the old lacquer pretty much wiped off. It still required a fair amount of sanding after, though. Peter

Hi Freek, Can you wipe an area of the veneer with mineral spirits and take a picture while wet? The grain appears to be open. I still maintain that these are mahogany. In that case, if you want to maintain originality, they should be stained and lacquered. According to the Finishes document I posted, the original stain was a filler/stain from Lawrence/McFadden, #23998. The company is still around, but they seem to only sell to instrument makers and the like. I tried numerous times to reach them to see if that stain was still produced. My calls and emails were never returned. If it is mahogany, you will have to fill the grain as well as stain. There are many ways to fill grain. Lot's of tutorials on the web. Lacquering, as I have stated, is not my forte. Especially on something as large as the AR3s. Small items can easily be rattle-canned. To do a good job on these will require a HVLP spray gun and the appropriate spray booth. Sprayed lacquer is exceptionally flammable. If you choose to oil rather than stain, you can apply liberally two coats of oil with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper. This has the effect of filling the gain with the sanding dust mixed with oil. Peter

My AR-7 are mahogany

@lakecat Seems there was no stain. Just sand and lacquer. Peter

I have been considering just cleaning and waxing them and enjoying as is. I am also considering sanding well, then oiling and waxing. I have a pair of AR7 that were lacquered mahogany. Those I refinished with an oil finish. They are beautiful.