GD70

Nice 10 TT's. Enjoy them for many yeRs to come.

Tom, Youre a wealth of information, and always enjoy reading your educational comments! Interesting history, and owning a set of 12's is even better with this bit of historical knowledge. Glenn

Kent, You are correct. First, let the ZPoxy seep into the gap. I dribble it in with a small flat blade screw driver tip. Keep adding it for 10-15 minutes or so. Wipe away any ZPoxy that is on the surrounding veneer surfaces. You want as little as possible on the veneer because you don't want it preventing the Danish oil from being absorbed when finishing the cabs. Mix enough ZPoxy so you can mix in in the sanding dust with the remaining Zpoxy in your cup and make a nice thick paste and smush it into the gaps to fill it. Place the flooded wax paper along the joint to create a mold for the corner edge joint. This is shown in the linked thread. Glenn

Take a look at my thread on AK when you get a chance. This was a restoration project for a set of 1967 3a's. They wer pretty beat up, but the end results were pretty good, and the client was very happy. BTW, Chris rebuilt the tweeters for this project. Post#7 shows the wax paper being used to help make a mold for the corners. I'd post the pics here, but I've use up all my space here with pics in other threads. Cheers, Glenn https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/new-ar-3a-restoration-project.795357/

That was a great and a fine thing to do Jeff! Cheers to all!

Couldn't agree more! Roy has assisted me on many restoration projects, from advice, crossover wiring diagrams, to sending me parts to repairing woofers, and rebuilding the mids for my 3's. One of the nicest gents you'll ever meet. Glenn

Once you have the pots removed and opened up, post pics. Then clean them up and post pics. The contact disks and pot wipers condition will determine if they are salvageable or need replacing. Closely inspect the disk surfaces for pits and missing material, very common from the corrosion. The wipers often have holes from sera of the spinning frictions against the coils. Sometimes this is repairable with a blob of solder if the hole is small. If most of the tip is gone, a replacement is necessary. As an alternative, there's a gent selling new replacement pots on eBay for 30 bucks each. They look great and a few have installed them with great results. The 3a's tweeters are the weak spot. If their output is low once the pots are back in place, Chris can rebuild them to sounding new again. He did a set for me on a set I restored and they sounded great. Regarding the woofers, check the Masonite rings the surrounds are glued to, and the spiders are glued to, make sure they are not loosing from the basket. Glenn

Two weeks to go! Hope to see some CSP members there! Cheers, Glenn

Hi Peter, My mids output was not great, somewhat muted. The issue is the white original flexible sealer around the domes bases had hardened greatly diminishing the domes movement to non existent. Roy removes it, adds some type of silicone dabs to support the dome, which allows the movement it should have. Trust me, you think they sound good now, rebuild the mids and you'll be astonished like I was! Glenn

Chris stated earlier it's his recipe, and cannot tell!

If they really bug you, you can send them to Richard So for restoration. Richard use to work at ADS and bought up all the parts inventory when they closed the doors. His work is top quality, uses all factory correct parts and they will be new and last another 30 years. Nice speakers, but I have to say, once you're bitten by the ADS bug, you'll be looking for more, especially the larger models space allowing. Glenn

Hi Peter, Please post pics as you progress. The 3's are really special speakers. You'll do a great job on them and rewarded for years to come. Consider sending the mids to Roy for rebuilding. He did a set of mine, and the improvement was astonishing, like new sound. Glenn

Thanks Kent! Hey swayzee! Kents advice is very good. The key is to remove a lot of the swelled particle board allowing the joints to be brought back together. This is not for the faint of heart. You'll need a small, thin bladed hand saw, and an Exacto knive and #11 blades. The saw is used to remove the bulk of the swelled material. You may need to go down to the lowest point of the joints. Once you've removed a sufficient amount, test with the clamps and see of the corners can be brought back together. It may take more material removal to achieve this. If you get to a point where you can get the corners almost together and no further, then it's time to start gluing. With this type of repair, I use ZPoxy finishing resin. It's a very thin 2 part epoxy that's easily absorbed by the particle board. I apply it into the gap with a flat blade screw driver, letting it drip into the gap. After 15-20 minutes, I add walnut sanding dust to add some color, it will be darker than the veneer, fold a piece of wax paper to make a square edge to form the corner. Clamp and have paper towels handy to immediately wipe way any epoxy that squeezes out when tightening the clamps. Place the folded wax paper and press down along the joint. Once cured, unclamp and remove the wax paper. Carefully block sand the corner smooth with 320 grit and be careful to not sand through the veneer along the joint. Repeat the process for the other separated joints. Glenn

Hey all! I want to let you all know about this AK gathering. Kent, who attended the last event, and several others had suggested I post this here as well so more of us audio heads on CSP would be aware of the gathering. Letting you know about it now gives plenty of time to put the dates on your calendars. These two dates will be the 3rd and 4th gatherings at the lodge. There's plenty of space for sales and demo setups. The location is pretty easy to get to, the building and surrounding Blue Mountain reservation park land is beautiful. For the first time at the last event, we extended the rental so we could have a dance party that evening. We had a great time with about 22 or so. There is a kitchen with a large fridge, so no problem to keep your beverage of choice cold, and of course, feel free to bring food and snacks if you like. Admission is 20.00, and this covers the rental cost for the day and ordering in pizzas. If you, decide to stay and dance the night away, that's an additional 10.00 to cover the extended night rental fee that I've already paid to secure the dates. There is a parking fee, for the day because it's a state park. Cheers and hope to see you then. Map link. https://search.yahoo.com/local/s;_y...5&fr=yhs-Lkry-SF01&hspart=Lkry&hsimp=yhs-SF01 Glenn

Parts are readily available, either on fleabay, or Richard So. Richard repairs or rebuilds virtually every driver and crossover. He use to work at ADS, and bought up all their parts inventory when they were closing their doors. I sent Richard my mids and tweeters from my 910's for rebuilding, and they are basically brand new drivers, good for another 30 plus years. Theres plenty of testimonials regarding Richards top quality work, so you have no worries buying any ADS speaker. Glenn

Hey David! Those came out great! The bypass cap discussion is interesting and something I had not seen before.I have no plans to go back into mine, but may fool around with the idea down the road. Glenn

Hi Robert, I brought the 12's as a last minute decision, one because they are seldom heard, and two, easier to transport than the Angelica's, which I was originally going to bring. I also had a feeling you would be attending and wanted you to hear them. It was good to see you again. Glenn

Great, and interesting info as always gents!

Hey all! I want to let you all know about this AK gathering. Kent, who attended the last event, and several others had suggested I post this here as well so more of us audio heads on CSP would be aware of the gathering. Letting you know about it now gives plenty of time to put the dates on your calendars. These two dates will be the 3rd and 4th gatherings at the lodge. There's plenty of space for sales and demo setups. The location is pretty easy to get to, the building and surrounding Blue Mountain reservation park land is beautiful. For the first time at the last event, we extended the rental so we could have a dance party that evening. We had a great time with about 22 or so. There is a kitchen with a large fridge, so no problem to keep your beveredge of choice cold, and of course, feel free to bring food and snacks if you like. Admission is 20.00, and this covers the rental cost for the day and ordering in pizzas. If you, decide to stay and dance the night away, that's an additional 10.00 to cover the extended night rental fee that I've already paid to secure the dates. There is a parking fee, for the day because it's a state park. I'll start a for sale thread about 6 weeks prior to the event. Cheers and hope to see you then. Glenn

Glad to hear you're liking them Peter! Cheers, Glenn

If you're in a must use Lacquer on these frame of mind, Lacquer is very easy to work with, but must be done out in an open garage. I re-veneered the JVC M-7050 & P-L10 pre amp cabs you saw at Frankenfest. I first brushed on around 20 coats of Lacquer to fill the grain, then block wet sanded them smooth. Then used rattle can spray Lacquer for the finish. Sprayed maybe 8-10 coats. It was a lot of work but worth it. With the 3 cabs, I would strongly suggest going with a Danish oil. It's far easier, needing at most 5 hand wiped applications before the veneer will not absorb any more. Sand with 600 grit after 24 hours for each application. You will get a finish like Lakecats. Glenn

Oh man, gorgeous! Love the veneer on those. Just had to add an additional comment! Cheers, Glenn

Fabulous! Great examples! My one frame on my 2nd set of 3's was bent and cracked. I had to make new frames from 1/4 MDF. Glenn G

QComponents is the Canadian seller. https://qcomponents.ca/ Glenn

Gorgeous veneer and rebound! Now they are keepers!