Jump to content

Chris1this1

Members
  • Content Count

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

9 Followers

About Chris1this1

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Sounding amazing and rocking the party, this restored pair of AR6’s, donated from a fellow CSP member. These modern class D Bluetooth amps can take the place of components and sound great, at 40wpc. Residing in a friend of my’s basement bar, just want is needed.
  2. All right Harry, I’ll state what my current status would be. Right now, the AR3’s are back to location, after some minor tweaking of the 9’s UMR resistor (when in LSI mode.) that UMR was just too hot I’m my room, so I added a total of 4 ohms to attenuate it, which did balance it to my liking, but the tweeter seemed to overwhelm, so when I get back to it, I want to attenuate that now. Taking a step back, I thought why not just add a set of 10 ohm pots to the UMR and tweeter? easily allowing room tuning. But again, I strongly think, it’s just MY room and listening position not lending
  3. From a few more days of listening, I can say they are voiced very differently than what I’m used to hearing out of my AR3’s and LST’s. Even bypassing the preamp and having my DAC directly into the power amp as ar_pro Suggested, their voicing is still apparent. I’m not saying this is a bad thing, it’s just different than what I have been used to for a long time. Sometimes change is good, sometimes it’s good for a short period. We will see. For the dented mid domes. When the assembly was removed from the speaker, the sides of it were sealed with aluminum tape. I just poked a hole in th
  4. Roy, I’m using a calibrated Fluke 87v meter. Why I suspect degradation would be from prior experiences recapping older electronics. I’ve noticed the older caps tend to show higher values on this meter as they age. More importantly, on this meter, the new caps, both NPE and film varieties tend to measure very close to their specified values. Granted, Fluke isn’t specifying their test frequency, but I have made comparative measurements with another bench top meter at work, with selectable 1,10, and 100KHz frequencies and this fluke tends to match up with the 10K measurements. Note tha
  5. Mission accomplished. Each speaker has an LS/LSi switch, as well as an NPE/poly film cap switch. I’m still waiting on the foam for the bass chambers to arrive as well as one last quad of NPE’s. The speakers are up and running though. The original NPE’s mostly tested higher but still within their tolerance, but to me that is an early sign of degradation. Also there was a mix of three different brands, and also different brands in each speaker in similar locations. i’m pretty sure the speakers are too big for my room, but I must say the bass is extremely impressive, so clean a
  6. OK, revisiting with some clearer thoughts. I have 4 pole switches coming to use as an LS/LSi selector. Poles used as follows: one pole to switch in or out the 1.5 ohm LMR resistor, one pole to switch in or out the 2.5 ohm UMR resistor, and the the last two poles to reverse the tweeter polarity as well as bypass the 5uF cap when LSi is selected.
  7. I had a similar issue with a pair of AR91's. On those, the switches needed to be cleaned with contact cleaner spray and then I was able to hear differences when switched.
  8. Resurrecting this thread, since I am working 9LS speakers. I have some questions for the crossover experts. On the woofer and LMR shunt caps, there is a 0.5 ohm resistor. That small value in the scheme of things seems almost negligible, so what is its purpose? The next question, is not only are 1.5 ohm and 2.5 ohm resistors added in to attenuate the LMR and UMR, but the polarity of the tweeter is reversed, as well as the 5uF cap right before the tweeter + terminal (ls crossover) is eliminated. Why reverse the polarity on the improved, and why get rid of that cap? Im interested in f
  9. Stimpy, That is a really interesting observation about the new NPE's not sounding as good as the originals. So I was going to add a non-invasive switch to enable or disable the LSi mod, but now I'll add another switch, to switch between the series NPE's or series poly's. Both switches will be added to the connection cutout, over the input binding posts. I'll measure the values of the original caps when this work happens, and if they are still within tolerance, i'll leave the Unicons in place, and just have the pollys as switched option B. Harry, Currently in the room is a
  10. Well gentlemen, this is my first Teledyne era AR full venture, other than repairs on later drivers etc. Being tipped off down at least a three link chain of CSP folks, I didn’t want to miss out on this opportunity. When they arrived home, my first impressions, is that the woodwork is stunning. Very minor raised spots on the tops, which should be able to be ironed out flat, as well as those water rings should wipe right off with a good cleaner. it’s evident the veneer has been protected with a satin poly from the factory. I’m not too familiar with different wood types, so I wouldn’t
  11. Hello all, My personal experience with these mids has only been with the potted versions, and they all had a fiberglass disc under the grill, over the dome. I just purchased a large magnet AR3 mid, and this one did not have this fiberglass disk under the grill. The only issue with this, is the grill had fallen off at some point, and was taped on, so that means there’s a chance if there was fiberglass there, it could have been lost. The question is, are these larger magnet style mids supposed to have the fiberglass disc under the grill, or were they produced without it?
  12. Don’t forget to make sure the polarity is correct on the woofers. If one is accidentally wired backwards, these out of phase woofers will cancel each other’s bass out.
  13. I would choose to keep the speaker loaded with drivers it was originally intended to use. AR3a's came mainly with the ceramic woofer, and as you know, some early AR3a's had the alnico woofer. If i was in the market for a pair of AR3a's, I'd be more interested in the condition and originality of the pair for an unrestored pair. For a restored pair, the quality of the restoration is the most important thing. All that considered heavily before looking for a specific alnico loaded or ceramic loaded pair. On the other hand, if i came across an alnico pair met the above criteria, i woul
  14. In an application with a lower crossover point such as the AR3a or LST, I can confirm this since I have tried, there is not much of a difference in the audible low end of things. However, when the ceramic is used in a higher crossed over woofer application like the AR3, you can hear a very audible difference. To me, the Alnico, as it was intended to have more upper bass let through than the ceramic version, will blend seamlessly in the system, where when a ceramic woofer was installed in an AR3, it sticks out like a sore thumb with a certain ringing and harshness, not blending well with the mi
  15. Hey Glenn, I was about to ask you where you got the Saran from, you beat me to it, thanks. The mids have been taken care of, agreed, they were useless prior. Believe it or not, the LST’s are currently shelved, in the back room but still wired to the amp. They were removed from the main room due to the sheer size and non optimal placement, in a room much smaller then they were intended for. It made the room look crowded and having 3a’s take their place, and now 3’s, I do not feel I am missing anything due to the room constraints and it seems the smaller speakers compliment the room better aesth
×
×
  • Create New...