GD70

Unfortunately, your pics are not visible.

Thanks David!

Yeah!

Tough call. They are difficult to find, and expensive. I would personally hold onto it as a backup. The tweeters are much easier to get, so save up for their rebuild.

Far better than before. Nice work.

I found the easiest way to remove the woofers in AR speakers is to remove all the sealer putty around the basket edges and cab gap. Then you can get a wide blade screw driver under the basket edge and start prying it upward. Use a putty knife between the baffle and screw driver to protect the baffle from the screw driver as you pry the woofer loose. Once you break that seal, it will lift out easily. Notice that greenish color on the magnet? Don't touch it, or breath any dust from it. I would wipe it with wet paper towels before removing it from the cabinet. Glenn

If those were mine, I'd completely, carefully sand the cab to the veneer surface. Then apply Watcos Danish natural color oil. The vintage veneer will darken, and usually will absorb 5 wipe on applications, I never paint it on, but wipe it on with cut up cotton t-shirts or an old sock. The veneer will absorb the first two applications almost immediately. Allow each application 24 hours to dry, then hand sand with 600 grit. I do this between each application. Good luck, Glenn

Beautiful 3s you have there! Someone did a pretty sloppy job trying to bridge the leads. I'd remove the added wires and replace them with a single strand. You could use copper strands from untwisted speaker wire, pull a couple strands for your repair. Give yourself plenty extra to work with. When you join the copper and aluminum lead, be very careful as the aluminum is very fragile. Carefully make a little hook at the end of the aluminum wire, and a hook with the copper wire that has extra to wrap around the aluminum wire. You can try to solver it together, but definitely wrap with electrical tape. Then solder the other end of the copper wire to the terminal strip. Just heat up the old aluminum solder and remove before resoldering the copper wire with traditional solder.

Thanks Kent, and I'm sure yours will look great when you're finished. Glenn

Yup, that's why I went with pine. Easy to cut, easy to staple into, and still plenty strong.

I was after the original look. What ever style, and cut that's decided on, leave at least 1/8th clearance all sides to account for the grill cloth.

Hey Kent! Pics are in my thread here on CSP. I used 1 inch square pine, cut the 45 degree bevel cut, leaving a 1/4 inch top and side surfaces remaining. Fabric from PE. Cheers, Glenn

Watcos doesn't dry glossy unless you apply many wet coats beyond what the veneer can absorb. All my cab restorations have used Watcos, and all have a nice matt/satin finish. Usually five applications is all the veneer will absorb. When I apply the oil, I wipe it on with an old sock, or cut up t-shirt. I never apply so much that I need to wipe away extra each application.

Impressive work! Great to see and read your process, and success!

When I replaced the surrounds, I removed as much of the original glue as possible with a small plastic putty knife. As I slowly, and gently scrape the glue from the surface, I have a finger on the underside of the cone to support it as I scrape. I do not attempt to completely remove it, so I don't damage the cone edges. After I removed the glue with the scraper, I use my fingers to rub off more if possible, and to smooth the cone surface so the new surround will have a smooth surface to glue to. It's ok if there's a bit of the original glue remaining on the cone surface. Glenn

Hi Kent! Nice work on the cabs! Don't be daunted by the grill frames and new fabric. I would make them like I did on my 12s, if you're after the original look with the beveled edges. The grills took me two days to complete. Cheers, Glenn

I hope you're successful! Member Chris1this1 is rebuilding these tweeters with great success. When I got my LST-2's, all 6 tweeters were dead. No one was repairing them at that time. I replaced them with the HiVi Q1Rs recommended by Roy C. With some minor crossover mods, they sound fabulous! Good luck, and keep us posted as you progress.

Hi All, Heres the link to the next Audio Blue Mountain Lodge meet. Hope some of you in the area can attend. The last gathering was terrific. Cheers, Glenn https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/spring-2020-peekskill-ny-blue-mountain-lodge-audio-fest-saturday-may-16th.897666/

Hi Chris, Glad to hear you plan to come to the next Lodge meet! If you decide to bring your 3's, I'll bring mine. I've compared mine to other 3as, and always preferred the 3's. My other set need Roys attention on the mids, and pots cleaned again. The LSTs are imposing. In a room like yours the 3's definitely seem better suited. If you're free, try to make Frankenfest as well. It's at a new venue this time. Glenn Glenn

There's been mids needing new surrounds on fleabay. Several pair in fact. When I replaced the surrounds on my mids, the ferro fluid seemed to be in good condition due to the fact the cones had plenty of easy movement. I left them as is, just replaced the surrounds, and face plate foam to look original. Glenn

The bit of extra glue won't have any effect on the sound, just your eyes! I wouldn't worry about it, but check the surrounds lip by the screws. Glenn

Nice score and getting them back in shape Chris. Fabulous speakers. Also sequencial serial numbers! The one thing I'll suggest is having Roy rebuild the mids. Made a huge difference in mine. You can get the correct Saran grill material from QComponents in Canada, if you're wanting to get them looking completely original. How do they compare to your LSTs? Hope to see you at either Frankenfest in March, or Peekskill in May, and maybe bring the 3's to demo! Cheers, Glenn

Fingers crossed Peter!

I'm glad the thread is helpful, that was the intent! I'm in agreement with you regarding the grills. It wasn't intensional, but I like that they are slightly sheer, revealing hints of the drivers. Enjoy your 12's, they're special speakers.

Thanks, much appreciated! You got a great deal on yours! Yes, yours are original, except the surrounding foam trim is gone, and the basket was painted black. The foam surrounds are original, clearly repaired with what looks like a thin application of silicone. They won't last much longer. I would do a recap as well. Those black caps are crap and out of spec by now. Cheers, Glenn