JKent

Here are Henry's radios and their progeny. The 21/II, 21 FM, 21 AM/FM and the 21 CL are Singer era products. Late in his career Kloss designed the Tivoli One, with obvious KLH roots. The AM/FM wasn't in the collage, so the 2nd pic shows that model. Looks just like the 21-FM.

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it 😉 otoh the 2000uF power supply cap is easily accessible and a cause of hum so I always replace those. ere are pics of a bad 2k cap, much smaller 2200uF replacement and a labeled pic of the audio board (just because I hd it). If you want a pdf copy of the Service Manual PM me with your email address.

Yeah. Kind of a conceit I guess. "Vanity plates" 😉 Kent (not Jeff)

There are 2 contour boxes on ebay today.

You can see from left to right the connections for woofer, mid and tweet. The caps are probably OK but why not go with new? The woofer cap is 100uF electrolytic. Replace with a new bipolar 'lytic of 50V or more. The mid has a 4.7 and a 15uF. I'd use film but they will be bigger. If you get mylar film caps from Erse they will be smaller than the Dayton polys from PE. http://erseaudio.com The thing is, the Erse electrolytics aren't great so great. PE or Madisound has 100uF 'lytics. Your tweeter has a yellow cap I assume is mylar. Looks like 5.0/5% which I assume is 5uF but check all the writing on there. It "should" still be good but if those speakers are burning up tweeters I think I'd replace it just to be on the safe side. 4.7uF is OK if you can't get 5.o. Others with more expertise in xo work may offer other opinions.

Some good leads here. Gene, I'd like to know if you've made any more progress in your quest. zcon's looks good too. he Cork 20-count from England looks too white to me although it could be tea dyed. Speaking of tea dyed, I've used this https://www.michaels.com/charles-craft-28ct-irish-linen-needlework-fabric/10357706.html It's inexpensive. Michael's used to have 40% off coupons routinely but now they're just 20% Even so, inexpensive. It's 28 count but very light weight. Called "Irish Linen" and although it used to be made in Ireland or Northern Ireland it's now imported from Poland. There can be a lot of variability in the color so it's best to go to the store and look at several packages. I've used it on a couple of different speakers. To give an idea, here are some examples: AR-4x AR-7 KLH 33 Rectilinear Mini III Rompicollo (a DIY designed by Johnny Richards that I wanted to look like a classic KLH speaker)

Searched my parts box and I have exactly 16. I believe they are 3/4" #10-24 Philips head machine screws. If you're putting them in a home-built cabinet you'll also need T-nuts like these https://www.parts-express.com/10-24-T-Nuts-50-Pcs.-081-1073 I have just 10 if you want them. I have your email address so will be in touch. Kent

It was salvaged from some other speakers

That original plastic grille was 2-tone white and sort of cream. It shrinks and I've tried stretching it without success. What I have done is a cut & paste job that works OK or I found some vinyl placemats that looked pretty close. 1st pic below shows the placemat on top, original on the bottom. The 2nd and 3rd photos show the jigsaw puzzle I did with the original grille material. btw, looking through some old photos I see I did replace the scrim on the back of the masonite (3rd pic).

KLH actually made FIVE different radios, all called the “Twenty-One” (always spelled out). In chronological order: The original Twenty-One replaced the tube Model Eight around 1965. It was all transistor with a walnut veneer cabinet, beige knobs and a beige/white plastic grille. The Twenty-One/II came out around 1969 after Singer bought KLH. It was essentially identical to the original but had a black cloth grille, black/silver knobs and the “Waller” tuner. The Twenty-One FM came out in the early ‘70s. It was larger, had a vinyl clad cabinet and a foam grille (that always disintegrated). The Twenty-One AM/FM. Same thing, with AM. The Twenty-One CL. Clock radio. The largest of the three later Twenty-Ones, had a flip-type clock that had about a 99% failure rate. The AM/FM is missing from this picture but it just like the 21-FM (3rd from top) except it has AM on the dial along with the FM., like the CL on the bottom.

I think it's called scrim but I'd skip it.

I no longer have AR-7s so I can’t check. Do you know what size screws you need? And are they machine screws (bolts) or wood screws? What kind of head? I’ll help if I can

and unfortunately I don't have any Model Twelve boxes to look at. I sold mine and have restored some for others but I have none here. Model Five crossovers "should" work but they won' give the flexibility of the Contour boxes (or an EQ). Good luck. Kent

They're Back again! 😀 Please email me (PM box here is getting kinda full) Use my screen name at P T D [dot] net. $30/pair with DakaWare knobs or $28/pair without, plus postage from NJ. They weigh 4 oz. each. JKent

Oh dear! Great speakers but your friend made a mess. I've worked on a lot of these contour boxes and they are very complex. I've never found a schematic and I'm afraid you will never be able to re-wire everything correctly. You could watch ebay to see if some contour boxes come up for sale. That happens once in a great while. In the meantime the only thing I could suggest is that you try using a separate equalizer. Kent

I see that same seller has the 200044 listed also.

https://stereonomono.blogspot.com/2010/06/rcf-br-45.html Looked at their website. They've been around since 1949. Lots of forums in Italian discussing the speakers but little authoritative info. Enjoy the music!

Huw Powell at Human Speakers in NH has a good reputation and is primarily known for his work on Genesis and EPI speakers but he does repair Allison. Probably worth giving him a call https://www.humanspeakers.com/o/brands.htm He also sells replacement drivers. 8" 4 ohm classic style woofers are hard to find. Dayton has a "classic" series but the 8" is 8 ohms. Here's a 4 ohm but I don't know about the fit or the sound. You could contact tech support there https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-RS225P-4A-8-Reference-Paper-Woofer-4-Ohm-295-567 Here's one by ScanSpeak, a very well regarded brand but again I don't know how well it would fit or work in your Allisons. You could contact Madisound with questions https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/scanspeak-22w/4534g-discovery-8-woofer-4-ohm/#tab-1 I think Human Speakers is your best bet. Kent

Sorry, I was unaware of that. I'm not an Allison expert. I owned a pair of Fours for years and loved them. Have also refurbished other Fours and Sixes (not CD6). I think member newandold is the resident Allison expert so I hope he'll chime in. If you go with a replacement you first need to be sure it will fit in the hole. Not all 8" woofers are truly the same diameter. Next, it has to be 4 ohms. There are other technical specs you don't list so I suppose a woofer that is designed for acoustic suspension use (not ported) is the next important criterion. I'll do a little looking but again, I'm no expert.

Fit? Maybe. Sound the same? No.

You would have to get original Allison woofers. Not an easy task. I’d call Bill LeGall at Millersound. If anyone can fix them he can.

Welcome Are you sure? What’s the problem? If it’s just the surrounds have crumbled, no problem. Easy fix.

I don't know. I'm no Bozak expert and don't know which Audax was used but here are some thoughts: First check the tweeter to see if it's OK. As Garfield wrote, use an ohmmeter. You can also hook the tweeter up directly to a music source at low volume. The Vifa DT25G is no longer made. I see one on ebay for $55 + $25 s/h but I wouldn't spend $80 for a used tweeter for that speaker. I believe the Vifa line somehow morphed into Peerless byTymphany. I'd check the dimensions of the original and look for a matching Tymphany. This one is 6 ohms and may work. Get a pair and sell the Vifa https://www.parts-express.com/Peerless-D27TG-35-06-1-Silk-Dome-Tweeter-264-1022 If the ones you are buying are the "A" version, those had an Audax tweeter but Bozak Mike did not give the model number. The Audax TW025A0 1" Textile Dome Tweeter was/is very popular and "may" be a good choice. It come in 4 ohm and 8 ohm. I suspect that either the Tymphany or the Audax would work fine IF they fit the hole. Both are silk dome. The 250A is an 8 ohm system and I think either the 6 ohm or 8 ohm tweeter would be fine. And there's a volume pot for the tweeter (on the A) so you can make fine adjustments. Hope this is helpful. Kent

If you're lucky it's just the tweeter pot. I had the 250. The 250A is different. The 250 had Vifa 25G 6 ohm tweeters. BozekMike (above) says the 250 has Audax tweets.

Do this test: Push the woofer in. It should come back slowly, indicating a good seal. If it springs right back you have an air leak and the most likely culprit is a porous cloth surround. I use Roy’s goo and it can make a tremendous difference