JKent

I dunno but they're really cool looking in that MCM setting. Bet they sound great. They won't take much to power them so a vintage tube amp would do the trick. Hope you get some answers.

There are a couple of Allison experts here so maybe ask on the Allison section of the forum but I "think" using an 8" woofer from another 2-way Allison (like the 110) should be OK. I've worked on the Four, Five and Six and pretty sure they all used the same 8" woofer.

Thanks again Jessi. I would just add that you should ALWAYS replace those black and red caps. CSP friend Professor John O'Hanlon explained years ago why they are especially prone to leakage: The black is PVC and the red ends are something else and they expand and contract at different rates and temps. They are often out of spec, usually waaay out. Sometimes shorted and I've seen more than a couple that had completely exploded.

Probably not. btw, Roy and I have been discussing, for years, whether the 5w resistors should be replaced. The latest consensus is this: The 5 ohm/ 5 watt resistor in the woofer circuit is a critical design flaw. I have been replacing all of the 5w resistors with 10w but Roy analyzed the circuit and concluded it's best to replace it with TWO 10 ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel, giving you a 20 watt 5 ohm resistor. That gets crowded on the PCB version especially but the good news is Roy says you don't have to replace the others UNLESS they are Rockwood brand. If you want to be real safe you can replace the 15 ohm resistor in the mid circuit. I'm thinking 10w is enough. Hoping Roy will comment on this. Kent

Yes, it does look that way and I don't have a reference board here either. But I have lots of pictures. I think I've only done 3 or 4 pair of Fives with the PCB XO but all of them were lined up as I described: 16 on the outside, then 3 then 4. Actually I don't really understand the question so Mot, maybe you can chime in here. I'm pretty sure the 5uF and 4uF leads are marked as such, so just use that as your guide. Kent

Hey Mot The double capacitor as you said has a single lead at one end and 2 leads at the other. You "make" a new one by combining one 3uF and one 4uF as you described. I assume your question is "which lead is 3 and which lead is 4?" Below is a photo of a stripped board where I marked all the values. It's rotated compared to yours but on yours, from left to right the first cap is the 16uF, then the 3uF, then the 4uF. Kent PS: That full-size pic may be a little hard to read. 2nd one is a close-up with values clearly marked

You linked something on Amazon. Will Amazon ship to you? This is the stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Repair-Adhesive-Strength-MI-3035/dp/B00L8A9YTO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmPSSBhCNARIsAH3cYgasp3Q1-1Dm4QD6AlH7FCCX8JtjpJMZcIhRJFFXQo5cs8d0V0wTC7oaAseBEALw_wcB&hvadid=313671925378&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003579&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5383178709710481192&hvtargid=kwd-328626965884&hydadcr=18915_9698718&keywords=speaker+cone+repair+glue&qid=1650300073&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQjhMOEI0MkNZSUJTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjk2OTMzMVc5QUQ4RlRGNzdLRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTczNTY2MkNIQjZLM1lXVU5FWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Did you try these guys? https://www.springfieldspeakerrepair.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=NRC I suspect this 3M product "may" work https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069393/ Here's a Canadian seller on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/293601606906?hash=item445c04fcfa:g:BRUAAOSwpDdVHv~t Another ebay seller https://www.ebay.com/itm/133503684403?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1f15708f33:g:~1oAAOSwcqxfRrnc&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA8LTkuy7pd9Vcyu6HWPdqfjlufFSr8OPNlzyMxRgoWwoNIRSgpiwf0VsGy4WYm3W%2B7FGbK43VeuhthSsRPx1VvWMANGrAV9f0cEJLuOD8RbY4fXm%2FHyZsV48%2B8ZeThAlUoeev7N08699m72v0CKwlD4pXaQkjz%2BHMCfrHpbuTnqwB3WGBp1vAC5hTHe5FtnGWiCsDLYA4fy%2BfUwjH5jyLHXkLpIIXnaOuwuyZPpDn57G2E4molusSkxOSYtA%2FcJIb6FBVH2Lzd0p0yvd0%2FfNZ6vC%2B%2BnIWrYTQdpijpNKtieIUeE9YqT2HytjK1u9YBPimJg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM0KPy2Ydg

What country?

I'm not familiar with those speakers but if they have plastic or plastic-coated cones and the surrounds are rubber, you should use the nitrile-base adhesive sold by many speaker surround suppliers. Ask whoever you bought the surrounds from. For FOAM surrounds on PAPER cones, white glue like this is the thing to use: https://www.speakerworks.com/Speaker-Repair-Adhesive-Latex-p/l100.htm Aleene's Tacky Glue is essentially the same thing and I've never heard of it drying "hard like super glue". White glues are PVA and are meant for porous surfaces. For rubber surrounds and/or plastic cones, use the nitrile based glue https://www.speakerworks.com/Speaker-Repair-Adhesive-p/nr100.htm Using other glues that were not meant for speaker repair (e.g. e6000) is IMHO a mistake.

Welcome to CSP You have options: If you can get the silicone off without damaging the paper the right way to patch a tear is to tear a piece of coffee filter paper or lens cleaning paper and glue it to the back of the cone using Aleene's Tacky Glue (or other white glue). Ebay usually has used parts. You could send the woofer to Bill LeGall at Millersound in PA to have it reconed. In that case best bet would be to send him both woofers and have him recone and refoam both. Other members may have other suggestions. Those are the European version of the 2ax and if you're on the other side of the pond your options may be limited. Kent

They're Baaack! UPS tells me they will be delivered today, April 6, 2022. Please PM me with your needs and I'll communicate further by email so the in-box doesn't fill up. Figured out how to use a lock washer to prevent rotation so those are included as well. Keeping the price at $30/pair for CSP and AK members, plus shipping. Kent

Sorry. It’s gone. An excellent amp though. My tech is a Mac service center and when I asked about a Mac amp in his shop he said the Adcom sounds better.

Yeah. Live & learn. Years ago I bought a pair of 3s very cheap from CSP member toastedalmond (sadly George is no longer with us). Turned out they had one bad mid and one bad tweet. I only discovered that after the recap and I remember the good speaker sounding great. At the time those parts were scarce and no one was rebuilding them so I "upgraded" the pair to 3a's. Roy provided some AR-11 mids (identical to 3a but with silver screens) and I used the Hi-Vi tweets. The speakers were good but I never loved them. Recently I bought a pair of Chris's rebuilt tweeters and now they're pretty authentic 3a's, with those nice early aluminum frame woofers. Frankenspeakers? AR detractors often cite the kind of criticism found in the CR piece regarding the 3a: "thick and heavy" and "distant". In this case the upgrade was not necessarily an improvement. btw, those original mids and tweets were ridiculously heavy monsters with stupidly thin and fragile leads. IIRC the mid was about 5 pounds and the tweeter was nearly as heavy!

I would use Aleene's Tacky Glue. Have used on paper labels on speakers and old KLH radios. Easy to use, does the job, cleans up with water.

$30/pair + postage

Yup Any classic ARs that have A-P pots

Thanks Aadams. L-pads work perfectly well if installed according to the AR-3a restoration guide. I've already responded to Jeff's PM but for others who are interested I ordered another 200 pots from the manufacturer in China and hope to have them within a month, maybe sooner. Interested members should check my ad in the For Sale section but I'll mention a couple of things: I'm including red crimps (instead of blue), which are more appropriate for the 18 AWG wire typically used in the crossovers. Now including a large stainless steel lock washer Price should remain the same Kent

That will be an interesting comparison. The Fives were KLH's answer to the 3a. I really liked the Five's AFTER sealing the surrounds but sold them before getting the 3a's so never had a chance to compare them myself. btw, I totally agree re the scrim.

Pay up

Welcome Sophie Well, they're not "classic New England loudspeakers" so you probably won't find much here. According to Wikipedia Diatone was a high-end brand made by Mitsubishi. I found one thread on AudioKarma that said the S92 is similar to the smaller S62, which is an interesting-looking horn speaker https://www.hifido.co.jp/sold/09-45010-20443-00.html?LNG=E Found a number of Diatone speakers, amps & preamps on ebay but not the S92. Searching Google images finds various Diatone speakers in Japan, Russia and former Soviet republics Apparently not big sellers in the US. So how do they sound?

The pics above, the first had no SN but its mate was SN 12470. The 2nd pic is SN 06845. Do they resemble the 1st or 2nd?

Hi Woofer and welcome The thread isn't dead, it's just that Avids are little-known gems. A burned resistor is a bad thing. The only time I've seen that is in KLH Five and Twelve, where they used 5w resistors. I'm not familiar with the M102 but if the resistors are 5w I'd put in 10 w. Regular sand cast wirewound from Erse or Parts Express will be fine. My 100s have film capacitors so I assume the 102s do as well. Should be no need to replace those. A picture is worth a thousand words. Resize your jpeg pic to about 100 - 200 KB and drag it to the area below where you type or click where it says "choose files" and navigate to where your pics are.(see the little paper clip?) Kent

Good tip from Roy about that chamber. I now realize I've worked on about a dozen sets of Five xo's but only one pair of cabinets! Here are the only backside pics I could find

Jessi, I regret (for many reasons) I no longer have my Fives so I can't check whether that's a single chamber for the mids or 2 separate chambers. I don't suspect it's a problem. I will refer you to the KLH Service Bulletin in our Library that says both the woofers AND the "Twelve point five" drivers (i.e. the mids) should be re-doped. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/klh/other/klh_schematicsservice/klh_service_bulletin_60.pdf I'm afraid I don't know the answer to your coil question. As for the caps, that's very controversial but I'll say a couple of things: The PCB xo is tighter than the point-to-point so the physical size of the caps becomes an issue. In the photos below, the first xo has all yellow mylar caps--a mix of Carli (no longer available) and Erse. These fit pretty well. https://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PEx The second shot shows all poly--Dayton in this case but Erse has similar caps. https://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PulseX You can see fitting the 25uF is quite a challenge so I pulled that out and went with stacked parallel mylars as shown in the third shot. Mylars tend to be closer to the original NPEs in ESR You could use all NPEs or a combination of film for the smaller values and NPE for the larger. A couple of members here have praised Mundorf E-Caps, available from Parts Conexxion https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-ele-mundorf-e-cap-ac-series.html I have long been a proponent of replacing the resistors. Originals are 5w and I've seen burned ones. Standard sand cast wirewound 10w resistors work fine and they're dirt cheap from Erse. A little bit of a challenge to shoehorn them in though https://www.erseaudio.com/Products/WireWoundResistors10w You "could" use Mills resistors. I seriously doubt they "sound" any better but they are smaller and easy to work with. Last I checked they were about $7 each from Parts Express but less from Parts Cpnexxion https://www.partsconnexion.com/mills-mra-12-resistors.html Kent

Send RoyC a PM through the forum, He'll sell it to you directly. I forget whether it's 1 or 2 chambers but yes--they are sealed from the larger chamber. I wouldn't be concerned unless there is obvious damage. I've never seen that but I suppose it could be a very sloppy original. Have you listened to the mids to see how they sound? And, not that you asked, but these speakers will really benefit from new caps and resistors. Kent