JKent

Hi Robin and welcome to CSP You may not get many answers. The Snell section here is not the most popular. I had to Google pictures of the Snell Type E/II and I saw they have 2 pair of terminals for bi-amping but if you look at the picture below it says "Bridge for normal operation" and there are wires connecting the 2 black terminals and the 2 red terminals. Those terminals are "5-way Binding Posts" and they will accept either double banana jacks or bare wires. Your Marantz receiver will have similar binding posts. To connect the receiver to the speakers use 2-conductor cable of at least 18 AWG. In other words, plain old lamp cord. Or you could get speaker wire like this https://www.parts-express.com/Audtek-SKRL-16-50-16-AWG-OFC-Speaker-Wire-50-ft.-100-016 18 or 16 is heavy enough unless you are going for very long runs, then you'd want thicker, like 14 AWG. You don't need fancy, expensive cables. You can strip the wires, twist the strands and insert through the hole in the SIDE of the terminal. Lamp cord has ridges along one side so just make sure you keep the polarity. "Speaker wire" will be color coded in some way. If you call the ridge side "black" connect that to the black post on both the speaker and the receiver. You only need to connect to one pair of posts on each Snell if the bridging wires are there. If you want to get fancy you can buy some double banana jacks like these https://www.parts-express.com/Gold-Plated-Dual-Banana-Plug-Black-090-467. Note that one side has a tab so you can maintain polarity. Usually tab = Black terminal. You can get double banana jack in Red for the Right channel and Black for the Left channel. Come back with any more questions. Enjoy the speakers! Kent

I’m using it with an old Technics CD changer in my stereo system, not a computer.

I have a Modi—the entry level DAC. It works fine. I needed tech support once and it was prompt and helpful. Kent

I have no experience with these so I don't know. Here's an ad https://worldradiohistory.com/hd2/IDX-Audio/Archive-Stereo-Review-IDX/IDX/80s/Stereo-Directory-1984-OCR-Page-0137.pdf. and I see a brochure for sale on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/133942669193 The speakers you posted need to be refoamed, so add that to your cost.

Not classic KLH. From the 1980s. I think Kyocera (Kyoto Ceramics) owned the KLH name then.

Hey Rich Welcome back. Other members may have good advice on how to tackle those woofers. If they were mine I think I'd send them to Bill LeGall http://www.millersound.net/contact-bill-legall-millersound.html Kent

Wow That can capacitor "may" be good. Check to see if it's a Sprague Compulytic. Also, see lARrybody's photo. He replaced the volume pot with an L-pad. Good idea. And please do post photos. Resize to about 100KB or so for best results. Kent

I don't know that Advent published wpc specs for radios and I'm guessing that as part of the Response series the 450s was considered to be a radio even though it was a compact music system. Whatever the case, here is the Advent section from the 1982 Stereo Directory & Buting Guide. It shows the 300 as having 15wpc and the "big" 350 with 50wpc. I could not find the wpc specs for the 400, 410, 420 or 450. Fred Pinkerton noted (above) that the Response Series had more output than the 400 but that still leaves us in the dark. My guess is the 450S which retailed for the same $300 price as the 300 but with the bonus of 2 speakers included would have had lower power than the 300. 5 - 10wpc? I dunno. I wouldn't try to drive AR-3a's with the 450S 😀 Kent

So, assuming you have the non-epoxied drivers, definitely yes--replace the 8uF. They have probably drifted to the point that they are no longer within spec. Also do the 3-finger woofer test to see if you need some of Roy's goo. My guess is you do. I was not aware of unfinished (plywood?) Sixes. Please post photos so we can take a look. Resize to about 100KB or so for best results.

Here's a link to the restoration I did: and here's a more recent restoration with fancier caps and new resistors by LorneG and a nice job by Brad1234 My local electronics shop has a pair in need of restoration for sale on consignment. A little pricey at $150 but if that's negotiable I'm tempted.....

Hi Stan Welcome to CSP! Not sure I understand your question. The Six crossover has two 2uF caps and one 8uF. The schematic I looked at says the 8uF is oil, in which case you could probably keep it but IIRC the pair I worked on had a paper cap for the 8uF. SO, if the 8 is paper, replace it. If it's an oil-filled can you may be better off leaving it. I think the PIO caps were only in the Sixes with epoxied-in drivers. The resistors are two 3ohm and one 7.5ohm. Unless they show physical damage they don't need to be replaced. Kent

Nice neat job. Are the new washers shoulder washers? Those screws have to be entirely insulated from the metal plate.

Personally I wouldn't bother but Roy "wrote the book" so let's see what he says. If I were doing it I'd use ~0.27 ohm, 20W but I didn't add resistors when I did mine and I think if you search through pictures of others' 3a's you'll find no one else did either. Kent

I agree. The 25uF would be fine and certainly within tolerance but if you can build up the exact value, why not? I don't know about those phenolic dome tweeters. Any that I've seen have been rather tired and often the domes pop off the foam blobs. I do agree regarding the mids so if you contact Roy about having them rebuilt I'd suggest asking him about the tweets. You can replace the pots with L-pads as described in the AR-3a restoration booklet. They work well and will last far longer than cleaned-up AE pots. If you want new heavy-duty pots send me a PM. Love the mahogany! I had some 2a's in that finish. I'd suggest stripping them. Try lacquer thinner--it can be time consuming but effective. Follow with block sanding. You may find those scratches disappear. If any are deep you can steam them out with a damp cloth and steam iron. Then spray with Minwax Gloss spray lacquer. Do it outside. It dries very fast and you can re-coat after 10-20 minutes. Do at least 4 coats, the more the better. You can block sand with very fine sandpaper if there are any runs but let it dry over night before doing that. After the final coat wait at least a day then buff it out with a white Scotch Guard pad for a softer look, or leave it glossy if you prefer. Kent

Try white Scotch Brite

GREAT progress! Wood looks beautiful. Just remember to put the rubber washers and shoulder washers back in place. I hate those aluminum plates

Good advice from RTally. I have a bag of oxalic acid here and that's what I meant by "wood bleach" (the chemical name had escaped me) but I did not know Bartender's Friend was the same thing. Will have to get some! I had forgotten the Sixes were oiled walnut. The Fives and some others have an impenetrable hard finish of some kind. Probably varnish. Here are some I did about 4 years ago. Pretty sure I used at least one coat of Mahogany Watco to get that warm tone. Grilles were re-covered in linen as you plan to do.

That Phillips driver is relatively rare. As far as the foam tape, it’s important to keep an acoustic seal. Parts Express sells nice foam tape but not worth buying an entire roll for one little driver. You can use a $5 brick of duct seal from Lowes or Home Despot. Roll a little “worm” to go around the perimeter.

Weather permitting I would try a chemical stripper like Citra-Safe or a soy-based. Assess when clean and dry then hand sand carefully. Those 3 dark spots look like the only possible challenge. You may have to use a wood bleach on those. Glen is the expert on patching veneer. I’d use brown epoxy such as Mohawk or JB Woodweld (+ Mixol 22). The big chunks are in inconspicuous spots. After all that assess and decide whether to stain. The new linen should be nice for the grilles. I no longer sell reproduction badges but eBay seller “audiotagsiowa” has what look to be nice ones for $10/pair. I don’t know if the Sixes originally had the flat aluminum or the cast badges with screw backs. I may have the cast ones.

You only need one tweeter. If you can’t find a 5/12/23 use a 6/17/20. Close enough until you find the correct one. Personally I would not fuss with custom face plates and xo mods for the PRT.

I’m away from home and can’t refer to my notes but I’m sure this has been discussed here before. Which model’s tweeters work in the Fives? The list in our Library doesn’t address this and the excellent chart on aphenos.net is a little vague on the tweeter question. Anybody have the answer?

Roy is the senior AR guru and an author of the AR-3a restoration book (be sure to download it). If you look at Aadams’s post he wrote contact @RoyC That’s a link. Click it and it will take you to a page with a little envelope. You can send him a message by clicking that. Kent

Nice find! Use ONLY RoyC’s goo on the surrounds. It makes a big difference on the Fives. Get it from eBay seller Vintage-AR or contact Roy. No need to replace the wires. But whatever floats your boat. Those aren’t pots they’re switches and they’re unobtainium. Kent

The included brush works fine. Apply sparingly.