dna

I'm sorry I missed this post, very informative! Thanks to all!

Thanks for the valuable info! Would they be of recent or current vintage?

Where could I get the tweeters repaired if needs be? The owner indicated they were overhauled at some shop in Seattle 6 years ago. The foams look pretty good, too good not to be of recent vintage.... My getaway is 12' X 16' with 8' walls and a 4' peak, I have a Pioneer SX 780 tuner and the AR 5, 58, and 17s towered with a pair of Pioneer S? 100 that I'm not (they need re-capped) using right now. It makes for a pretty good listening room....:) I saw 2 blue and 1 orange cap, that orange on sure is large. The leads from them are so short I can't rotate them to see the brand or rating.

Picked up this pair of AR 5s today S/Ns 35194 and 35186. I have seen other ARs with the wires traveling across the front panel; they are covered over with electrical tape. is this typical? They sure are in nice shape, heavy too! From the pics on line some had these wires across the panel and other (prolly later editions?) had the wires inside. I'm thinking AR coated the exposed wires with a non-conductive coating would any one know what would work for that today do I want to do that or leave well enough alone? I will get inside tomorrow to check out the caps, The seller said they were gone over 6 years ago by a pro shop in Seattle (I live in the Puget Sound area) I imagine they re-foamed and re-capped them but I'll know fersure tomorrow. It's been a long day, 2 hour ride to the location and 2 hours back as well, funny how that works...

I just got 2 sets of caps for my AR 58s, I forgot the voltage was 50, I got 100s... they are BP and VENT brands. Def. electrolytics... should I have got something different?

"OTOH"? Please forgive my ignorance... ADD? does that mean anything? My dogs ((at the time) ripped the cones and the foam out right down to the voice coils. They did a job on the foam grilles too! When I attempted to re-foam the driver(s) I used those curved wire brushes that are a lot like a tooth brush (I'm a mechanic by trade and training though I am OFFICIALLY RETIRED as of March 30 2020!) to hold the cone away from the frame while I applied solvent to the cone and then attach the foam; I'm not sure that was the best thing to use but it's what I had on hand at the time. If this is what you mean when you say "shim the cone"....... I'll add pics of my re-coning efforts tomorrow.... I forgot to take the pics!

@ 50 Volts... Bi Polar of course?

5"(?) AR speaker with beautiful foam and cone available for sale or trade. Check out the photos, I have ONE. Looking for a tweeter from a AR 58s or a woofer (P/N 200001-1) from the AR 17.

Here Here's the pics of my AR 17 stuff. I still have a set of AR 58s as well. The original AR 17 woofers were tossed in to the trash back in 2001, after (back in 1982-3) my dogs ripped the cones out. Back to 2001; thinking I could buy new ones from AR, (thus avoiding shoddy re-cone & foam job; boy, was I in for a surprise!) The people I called that said they had AR (genuine) replacements, they didn't have genuine replacements at all, what they had were a direct fit dimension wise but not performance wise. They are still using this advert pitch I am sure you all know of whom I speak! So, now I have 1210037-2As installed in the cabs and these 2 spares, one of which needs to be re-foamed along with the AR 25 8" woofer which is (I'm told) the same model # as originally used in the ADD editions of the AR 17 (P/N 200000-1); I am also told that P/N 200029 was used in the ADD AR 17. Some say I could use them as well and the 200037 (from the AR 18) with good results.Aas it turns out these original P/Ns are either not out there (on Ebay) or those that are selling them (on Ebay) want more $$$ than I am willing to pay. If anyone knows of another resource for genuine AR drivers I would certainly shop there as well. There was a seller on Ebay that offered an AR 17 woofer with a poly cone in it (it was smaller than 8" diameter), it also didn't have the 200001-1 P/N on it either, I bought it before I realized what it was; I and contacted the guy and he allowed me to cancel my order. I have an odd ball AR speaker here for sale or trade P/N 1210122-0A. Pls. PM me if interested.

Tom; What is the current status of your project? BTW I think many conventional expenses of self publishing could be reduced or eliminated if you self- publish the book on Amazon, in a electronic form; (no actual book, no actual printing, binding, physical distribution, boxes, shipping) this may be the answer your looking for. On another subject; would it be possible to post all the appropriate archives to the AR library here?

no.

No, sadly it is broken! Does anyone one know if they can be repaired and if so could contact information be posted?

Amen on the confusion when translating schematics into a real-life circuit! I understand diagrams much better than a schematic!

I bought a pair (ser. #s are sequential) at Hickam AFB Base Exchange in late 1978. I still have them even though my dogs ripped the foam and cones out years ago. Long story short a few weeks ago I sanded them with a Milwaukee orbital sander and 320 paper, put tung oil on them and they look just about new. The walnut had taken some abuse but anyone would buy them as they are now. I remember AR describes the enclosures as hand rubbed oiled walnut. I searched for new 8" drivers, using the 20001 P/N. I have ONE that needs to be re-coned again as I tried and screwed it up, it buzzes when played. Anyway I would sure like to find a schematic for the crossovers. I see one on Ebay but it doesn't look the the one picture on this page on Ebay. Any light any one can shed on this for me would be appreciated very much! The pic on the top is onEebay right now and the bottom I found on in our forum here.

Must be free....😀

Still available?

I have (P/N 1-2109300-B) and I was wondering if any one knew what model it was used in. I checked the history link here and did not see this P/N listed there.

Thank you and all the forum members for your invaluable support!

Thank you! You guys are most helpful!

Thank you very much for the info! So the in this case the voltage doesn't matter so long as it's above the rate on the original cap, interesting... Another question: so far as I know capacitance is capacitance regardless of material, axial, radial, those wafer (flat disks) shaped ones, I mean materials used isn't an issue, it's the value of capacitance and voltage is what the circuit sees right? What function do the coils of copper wire in the crossover perform? What is accepted practice for repair? I suppose it could be hand wrapped so long as the same gauge wire and the amount of turns is the same....

No, I checked the resistance with my digital VOM and there is no continuity. Currently, there are original replacements on E-bay. The tweeter isn't the real issue, no signal is being sent to the tweeter proof of that is the working tweeter emits no sound when connected.

I have a pair of 58s speakers, one tweeter is dead and when the tweeter from the other speaker is connected to the first there is no sound. I was told this could be a capacitor, or I'm thinking one of those mysterious coils in the cross over. The capacitors are axial electrolytic. They have the values as follows: All are 50V bi-polar, all are mfd. 4, 8, 24, 40, 100 I don't know if it's true but I was told that when running capacitors in series the value of each increases the capacitance factor by it's rating. For example 3 mfd wired in series with another 3mfd gives you 6mfd. I'm assuming that so long as the voltage is the same for each capacitor that factor doesn't change. If this is true I could put a few together to get the proper capacitance yes? Maybe some one here knows where I can get the correct capacitors, all the ones I find on the internet are not the same size physically (does that make a difference?) but as I just need 2 of each some sellers on E-bay offer one of the ones cited but you got to buy a whole lot of them. I have tried Amazon, E-bay, and Google too. Of course, I get hits for everything but the thing I asked for....

This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping to get! I found a site (of course I thought I saved it but apparently not) that had a gray and white chart that listed a lot of the info you posted.It had links mid page that would lead you to more info on that particular P/N or M/N that was listed on the left side of the page. Sound familiar? Now I have to find some discretionary cash... Thanks a lot really!

My dogs literally ate the cones, I kept the speakers cone-less for years until I got the bright idea that some Radio Shack speakers would just fine in there ummm, NO! When I did this AR was still around and I told myself one day I'd get some real ARs for it but life happened. I can't believ it and none of you folks will either but I pitched the the original woofers, they looked so bad.... I re-coned my AR 58s, That will be another post concerning the capacitors.