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AR55

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  1. This is how far the AR & Advent brand names have fallen under Voxx: Voxx uses the AR name on a line of outdoor speakers: Voxx - AR Speakers. Not exactly high end, but at least they are speakers. Sadly, Voxx has relegated the Advent name to floormats: Voxx - Advent Floor Mats
  2. The only way that someone builds an new AR or Advent speaker that remotely resembles the new KLH Five is if Voxx sells the the brands. I believe that under Voxx's ownership the AR & Advent brand names are destined to just fade away.
  3. If you are looking to replace the foam surrounds yourself, Speakerworks and others sell kits. If not, there may be a local speaker repair shop in your area, or you could send them off to Millersound. Make sure you keep track of the positive & negative wire connections, and you replace the seal when you reinstall the woofers into the cabinet.
  4. I doubt that you will find a cream colored AR tweeter. I have never seen a working one come up for sale. You may have some luck finding the black, second generation tweeter found in the second generation AR-10B/11B. It doesn’t show up every day on eBay, but I wouldn’t be surprised to see one for sale in the next few months. I recently restored a pair of first generation AR-11A’s that had blown tweeters, and was able to replace the tweeters with a pair of eBay sourced 11B tweeters. I don’t think that you will find an audible difference in the sound of the first & second generation tweeters. Other than cosmetics (black dome verses cream dome), it appears that the addition of Ferrofluid to the 10B’s/11B’s tweeter’s voice coil was the only change that AR made. This gave it more power handling ability. If you can’t find an 11B tweeter, you may want to consider replacing one or both tweeters with aftermarket tweeters. I purchased a pair from Midwest Speaker Repair (Midwest Speaker Repair MT-4121 .75-inch dome tweeter) to use as backups, since I am now running 2 pairs of AR-11’s in my system, and didn’t want to risk not having a replacement if a tweeter blows. I compared the AR 11B tweeter to the MT-4121 tweeter, and felt that the MT-4121 may be a little bit brighter, but otherwise I could hear no difference.
  5. Anyone that has tried to replace the fabric on the 9LS/LSi & 98LS/LSi grilles knows how difficult it is to remove the plastic trim on the back of the grilles without breaking it. For those that are not lucky enough to have the trim come off in one piece or even a few of pieces, McMaster-Carr sells 3/64” thick x ½” wide black plastic strips. The strips are slightly wider than the original AR trim, but still a good fit. The strips come in 5-ft lengths for $3.95, and are shipped in 4” diameter rolls. You will need to reverse roll them and set them aside for a few days to flatten them out. A minimum of 2 of strips are needed for each speaker. Below is a link to the McMaster-Carr site. mcmaster.com - 1/2 inch plastic strip
  6. I agree with AR_pro. It looks like you have a veneer over particle board under that black paint. I would recommend sanding off some of the paint from the bottom of the speaker to confirm. If you do have a veneer under the paint, my own experience says that is worth the effort to refinish the speakers. A while back I acquired a pair of AR-15’s that also had been painted black. The photo below shows black paint vs. refinished. With that veneer, I could never understand why anyone would have painted them in the first place.
  7. I wouldn't mess with the spider. I recommend redoing the foam surround to see if that fixes the problem. The 210037 woofer was a replacement woofer made for AR by Tonegen and should have nearly identical properties to the original square magnet 200037 AR woofer. I wouldn't worry too much about the 200037's magnet being slightly rotated.
  8. If go to the the Library and click: Acoustic Research - Special Sections - AR International - Brochures - AR "Extended Research" Brochure, you will find information on the 48Ls. classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/special_sections/ar_uk_related_information/brochures
  9. I believe it is the European version of the AR-48b, which was manufactured from 1984 to 1985.
  10. About 10 years ago when I was looking for a set of AR metal stands for my AR-11B’s, I came across a pair of AR-11A’s selling for $350 on Craigslist that included the stands, as well as a set of replacement foam grilles. It was an all or nothing deal, so I agreed to include the 11A’s in the purchase even though they were not in the best of shape – I figured I could always part them out. The stands were put to immediate use, but I put off doing anything with the 11A’s themselves. Both of speakers had blown tweeters (one of the blown tweeters was a Tonegen replacement with an unfamiliar model number - 121130-0B). The midranges were good, but the woofers needed new surrounds and the crossovers were questionable. The owner had stored the speakers in his garage where they sustained significant water damage – buckled & peeling veneer on the bottom of the cabinets with some staining & delamination of the veneer on the sides. The rest of the cabinets were in fair shape with numerous nicks & scratches. Fortunately, the foam grilles were in their original box and were in excellent condition. Recently I picked up a pair of crossovers and tweeters from a parted out an AR-11B on eBay. I now had the time & the parts to restore the 11A’s, so I pulled them out of storage. Crossover restoration: Instead of trying to deal with the existing crossovers in the bottom of the 11A’s, I just removed them & replaced them with the eBay sourced, 11B crossovers. I kept the 11B’s original 120uF Sprague capacitor, but replaced the other capacitors (10uF & 40uF) with Dayton 1% tolerance capacitors. All the original red/black capacitors in the both 11A & 11B crossovers were out of spec, measuring between 19% & 55% over their original rated value. The 122uF (50uF+72uF) capacitors in the two 11A’s were close to their +/- 10% spec at 136uF & 140uF. Existing Crossover Existing Crossover Removed 11B Crossover Installed with new Dayton 10uF & 40uF Capacitors Cabinet Restoration: Removed and replaced the existing buckled veneer on the bottom of the cabinets. Re-glued & ironed flat the veneer that had delaminated along the bottom of the cabinets’ sides. Sanded off the existing finish (the exposed, unfinished walnut veneer was lighter & redder in color than I expected) and refinished the cabinets with 3 coats of Watco Danish Oil. The initial sanding had removed the water stains & all but a few of the deeper nicks/scratches. Wet sanding after the initial coat of Danish oil helped hide most of the remaining blemishes. Water Damaged Veneer on Bottom of Cabinet New Veneer Driver restoration: Installed the eBay sourced, 11B tweeters, adding new felt blankets over the tweeter face plates. The woofers were re-foamed curtesy of Millersound & the woofer’s rotted “outer gasket” trim was replaced with 1/8” x 1” adhesive backed, black foam. The finished product turned out looking better than I hoped & they sound just like AR-11’s should – detailed with tight, deep, undistorted bass. Flim & the BB’s can tell you a lot about your speaker's capabilities. Restored Speakers
  11. I don't believe what you peeled off was put on by AR. The AR-17 cabinet had a real wood veneer with an oil finish (linseed oil or similar). It looks like you may have peeled off a poly type finish that was applied over the original oil finish. I am presently restoring an AR-11 that was varnished. In my case it was not possible to peel off the varnish. I sanded off the finish down to the bare wood veneer and then applied 3 coats of Watco Danish Oil, wet sanding after the first coat. AR veneers are fairly thick, but you still want to be careful that you don't sand through the veneer. Bellow is a picture or a pair of AR-17's that I restored, who's finish only needed a few touch-ups with a Minwax walnut stain marker and a coat of Watco Rejuvenating Oil. I also restored a pair of AR-15's that were painted black. In that case I sanded off the painted finish and applied a 3-coat, Watco Danish Oil finish. The picture below shows one speaker with the finish restored vs. one still painted black. Why anyone would have painted over that veneer is beyond me.
  12. Mine have actually held up quite well. The foam grilles for my AR-14's (same grille as 11/10pi) are 40 years old and still in very good shape and still grab the Velcro. The same is true for a pair of AR-15's I picked up a while back. My AR-11's needed new grilles, but that was primarily due to mistreatment by the previous owners. The grilles were stained & torn. I was fortunate to find a replacement pair on eBay.
  13. The original foam grilles have no fabric. The Velcro pushes into the foam. Some have made wood frame/cloth grilles that mimic the look of the original foam grilles. The grilles project out 3/4" beyond the face of the speaker with a 45 degree beveled edge.
  14. My intent was not to stir up a hornet’s nest over speaker wire gauge. I use the Belden wire because it is a respected name (the wire is truly 14 gauge copper); it’s relatively inexpensive ($.40/ft); it’s sheathed in white (blends into my base boards) and at 14 gauge it can easily handle the longer runs to my back surround speakers.
  15. Blue Jeans Cable makes a good product and is it reasonably priced, but doing it yourself is obviously cheaper. I tend to agree with genek. Simpler is better. In my case, I purchased Belkin 14 gauge speaker wire in bulk, cut it to the desired length & crimp on the spade connectors. I know that soldering is a better connection, but crimped connections are easier & if done right they hold up just fine. Below is a picture of my AR-11 speaker wire connections with the negative connection unscrewed to show the spade. Parts Express sells 100-ft of Belkin 14 gauge speaker wire for $40: https://www.parts-express.com/Belden14-AWG Speaker-Cable The also carry gold spades: https://www.parts-express.com/Gold-Spade-22-16-AWG Pair
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