dna

Still have, pls PM with asking price.

dead link.

Hi everybody! I have been gone/life took over for a while, I have retired and moved since I was last here (I think) but have not lost my interest in Hi Fi. I'll be around! Doug

Well, my thinking is that the 91 was given these switches to provide options for different rooms. Some rooms are more "live" than others; hence the ability to pull back on the tweeters. Some of us old farts aren't done moving around yet (we're not in the last residence we'll occupy) so those options might be needed. Me, I just like to have the best whatever I can get. I'm not a GREAT guitar player but I have pro gear, it sounds like what I hear from my system or on the radio and for me it's cool to be able to play with the same tone(s) the pros get. I have a lot of fun playing along to recordings, I mean that's as close as I'm going to get jamming with Clapton. I'd like to see his audio setup!

Fiber board, there is LDF Low Density Fiberboard, Medium (MDF), and High or HDF. I think AR and other high end companies used HDF.

None of these links works.

Several posts here give me questions, AR 91, AR 92 ? Was there a 92 or is this a typo? "ARs "best switches"? I know quality components should always be used but the "quality" of the switch? What "quality" is being refereed to? Does one switch turn off and on better than another of equal quality? Did AR spec out a certain way to stuff the "cotton" in the enclosure; a fold VS. a wrap up? I found the gasket in the 12 driver broken into several pieces all about 3" to 5" I used some speaker gasket foam I purchased for the 17s; the speaker mounting screws went conveniently right through the foam; but where could I find some original gaskets or should I used that putty AR once used? I was thinking about adding the switches that are on the 91 model; comments? By the way they really sound great!

I have one new tweeter I got at Midwest sSpeakers, It and the other OEM tweeter are just tweeting away! I'll replace the other OEM tweeter when $$$ allow. They sure sound nice! Thanks to all for the input! What would it take to upgrade to the AR91(?) X over?

My 200001-1. Note the square magnet. In my first set of AR 17 the magnets were square too.

I play the electric, acoustic and resonator guitar; all have a completely different sound and all probably would benefit from an Amplifier (amp/amps) and speaker designed just for each one and sometimes you can get them. There are 2 types of amps used and 2 types of speaker enclosures. Solid State and tube are the amps and open speaker cabinets (cabs) and mostly sealed cabs. The open cabs are usually combination (or combo) amps that house the amplifier AND the driver and the other has a separate enclosures for the amp and the drivers. I say they are mostly closed because the cabs are connected to the amp with a 2 conductor 1/4" jack; sometimes shielded cable is used; so there is at least one if not two 1/4" holes in the back of the cab. Sometimes the driver is installed from the front of the housing and sometimes from the back. Many times you'll see a Celestion used in the famous 4 X 12" 1961A and B cabs Marshall makes. Marshall uses the same model speakers in combo (open cab) amps and the other mostly sealed cabs. The same speaker sounds way different in each application. I'm a big fan of the mostly closed cabs, I can't see how one or two 1/4" holes in the back of a cab can be called a vent but by definition they are vents, the combo cabs remind me of my Father's Sylvania Mono Hi Fi from the late 50's with radio and turn table, it had one 12" and one 4" driver with a simple crossover. It had a Masonite cover on the back that was vented for the tube heat generated inside, it had horizontal openings for air to get in and out and I'm sure some of the sound but I'm also sure that wasn't on the minds of the engineers at the time. I know guitar amp drivers aren't made anything like a fine audio driver, the guitar driver has a lot less to do. I have never heard the amount of differences in stereo amp/driver quality that I have with guitar equipment. I belong to the tube amp side of the discussion, they provide a warmer sound, have a more natural distortion although solid state amps have a lot to offer and are getting better every year. Many solid state amps try to sound like tube amps, no tube amp manufacturer (MFR) will ever try to emulate a solid state sound. So what would make a great guitar driver? What would make a great enclosure? Those are questions that will have subjective answers of course. But as we all know facts are inconvenient things. Certainly we can apply Hi Fi speaker technology to this question. In guitar amps high wattage doesn't mean a lot louder, the decibel difference in say a 20 or 30 watt amp and a 100 watt amp is about 7 decibels. If you drive the 20 watt amp (turn it up) it's going to distort a lot easier/earlier than the 100 watt amp, the big difference is "head room" or the ability to go loud without distortion.

No, I do not, flood areas are at the feet of the mountains for the most part, and I do not live along a river or near any mountains. Thanks!

The caps for all my AR speakers arrived today (Sunday!) or they were put in the mail box after I got the mail on Saturday... Anyway... I soldered in the 6.2sUf in the four AR 17 I have. I'll listen to them in a couple of days, in one set the "T" nut kinda ripped that MDF up a little so I glued a piece of 1/8" plywood behind the T nut location, tomorrow I will pick up some new T nuts and a longer screw and finish the re-installation of the 8" driver, Also tomorrow I will replace the foam ring on a 20001 driver and install those in my first set of 17s. I found a 20001 and bought it; I will watch the sources and pick up another, once that is done both pairs will have original spec drivers installed. I have a Sony CD/dvd player that holds 400 disks, I'm loading it and entering the disk ID info by hand, most CD/dvds don't have the ID info on them so it has to be entered manually. I'm also in the process of ripping the disks to a SSD just to make things a LOT easier.

That is so cool it's FREEZIN' !!!

You maybe right, they might have come in one box, it was in 1978 I bought them. What sticks in my mind though was the sales guy says "I'll make sure you get a serial numbered pair." Don't know why he'd say that unless he was brown nosing me...

Well, I got a pair (serial number wise) of AR 17.

Hmmmm.

Thanks, I think I'd put my money in brass or nickle, they ought to be made of the same material as the terminal studs are to avoid corrosion.... nickle is pretty inert though Do I understand you have nickle ones?

You are da MAN J!

I get fine, the best, sounding setup... I love AR speakers I really do but after $500.00 to $700.00 a piece I start to loose sight of value for the dollar. I'm a guitar player and I can tell you there is a group of players that think having an older guitar (1950-1959) is totally cool, it's an Elitist thing; actually early Fender Stratocasters are said to be harder to play, I donno, I never held one, but why would I want some thing harder to play? I like my guitars in pristine shape, guitars that are beat up indicate a lack of respect for feelings, messages the instrument can be used to express. Although I get that those that play for a living treat their guitars like a carpenter treats a hammer. Clapton hasn't showed up on a stage with a beat up guitar in years and years, sure he has them that you can believe. I would buy a Model A or model T Ford because they are part of our history, but certainly NOT because they are better than what's available now. AR isn't the only company that built or builds great speakers, Coral comes to mind in my very limited experience. When I bout my AR 17 back in '78 in Hawaii I had been listening to the top of the line Coral speakers, those AR 17 were damn impressive! Those Coral speakers were pretty impressive; 7 speaker, 6 way better be impressive right? So as much as I love good audio there's a limit. I bought some Klipsch towers at the base exchange at Bangor Sub Base; I have no idea what model that are off the top of my head, I'd have to look. They have on-board amplifiers for sub woofers(which I don't care for) but because of the way they are set up they sound GREAT to me; anyways I get lots of compliments on them, they are 36 " to 40" or so tall, narrow. FIFTY dollars each, FIFTY. Great sound does not have to cost a lot of money. I bought those in 2002 or 2003. I bought them in the box without an audition. I had heard a guy's Klipsch speakers back at the dorms at Hickam, they were like a washer and dryer in size, he had a DBX hooked up, man those babies were sweet! They cost a whole lot more than the $95.00 I paid for my model 17, but I was and am still mystified at the great sound for size, cost and internals that the AR 17 gives. I have a pair of model AR 5s. I bought them because they are very classic, I mean classic to me a 60 something old post hippy, post Vietnam 20 year USAF vet. I knew nothing about their specs or reputation when I bought them but I knew at $200.00 a pair I couldn't go wrong. My AR 17, I know they are "Vintage, classic" but not to me, hell I was there when they were purchased and I was the purchaser, I'm sure you all know what I'm sayin'. Just cause it's old don't mean it's better than a Later model; it just might be cooler though and I get cooler. So what is some thing worth? When it comes down to it anything is worth what some one is willing to pay for it. I just scored a 20001-1 AR 17 woofer. With shipping it came to $100.00, $5.00 more than I paid for one of my ARs back in the day but 5 bucks bought a lot more in 1978 than today. I'll find another one sooner or later and I'll have 2 of them and that will make my 17 correct. Maybe I'll sell the other woofers to one of you guys to help you realize your Acoustic reseach dream pair!

I found the place to buy these, they come in several sizes but I know they got 8/32 and 10/32. Anyone know what my AR model 5, 17, 58s use? I know I need at least 2... The place is The Home Depot, free delivery to the store! You can't go wrong, Ebay they are at least $3.00 and change EACH and then the insulting shipping charges you can expect to pay on EBay will apply. I sow one nut offered for $3. and change each and to buy 1 the shipping was $5.00. Now we all know apadded envelope and a first class stamp doesn't cost $5.00.

I have refoamed my 17 & 58s speakers I guess I'm satisfied, I remember back in the dorm at Hickam AFB watching those 20001-1 woofers moving a WHOLE lot more than these refoamed drivers I have that are AR 8" drivers that (that are on the applications list) were used on the 17 but they are NOT 20001-1s I think the 17 model was originally foam and not butyl rubber. are the butyl rubber rings more pliable than the foam rings? I'm not sure using a butyl rubber cone surround on a driver that was designed to use foam is a good idea... the more pliable the more and easy the movement... HOWEVER...

You're telling me! Well if anyone is interested I have that AR...

This is what ebay taught me about buying speakers, take no one's word, if it isn't STAMPED AR with a AR Part number buyer beware; the buyer better be on the look out in any case. Left to right are: What seems to be a genuine AR 5.0" P/N 1210122-0A rated at 4 ohms, measures 3.6. Has sticker that says Made3 in Taiwan. The other 2 were passed off to me as ARs and I doubt it... The one marked "AR 25" has a tiny magnet on it, so it's prolly a radio shack woofer, (that's code for "trash") it looks cheap, doesn't weigh very much. I'll keep it for testing. Made3 in Taiwan. the last one on the right might be a Pioneer, the Internet shows that number as a pioneer speaker and the diameter is correct and it has on heck of a heavy magnet on it. rated at 8 ohms, it measures 7.2 ohms. Who/where ever it was made they weren't proud enough to mark the point of MFR. Sorry for my confusion, I thought the "Maybe Pioneer" speaker might be an AR but I should have looked (made sure my brain was loaded) before I shot my mouth off. So only the one marked AR P/N 1210122-0A rated at 4 ohms, measures 3.6. and the "Maybe Pioneer" are available. I make no promises. If you guys ID them as crap I'll take your word for it.

I have one each AR P/Ns 1210122 & 165766 -PT859324. I have no idea what they are from. I bought these before I found this forum and got some education. If you need one or both msg. me. I'm not real sure about the 2nd P/N. I'll edit the add with pics tomorrow. Dna

These were used in what models sir?