dna

Still have, pls PM with asking price.

dead link.

Hi everybody! I have been gone/life took over for a while, I have retired and moved since I was last here (I think) but have not lost my interest in Hi Fi. I'll be around! Doug

Well, my thinking is that the 91 was given these switches to provide options for different rooms. Some rooms are more "live" than others; hence the ability to pull back on the tweeters. Some of us old farts aren't done moving around yet (we're not in the last residence we'll occupy) so those options might be needed. Me, I just like to have the best whatever I can get. I'm not a GREAT guitar player but I have pro gear, it sounds like what I hear from my system or on the radio and for me it's cool to be able to play with the same tone(s) the pros get. I have a lot of fun playing along to recordings, I mean that's as close as I'm going to get jamming with Clapton. I'd like to see his audio setup!

Fiber board, there is LDF Low Density Fiberboard, Medium (MDF), and High or HDF. I think AR and other high end companies used HDF.

None of these links works.

Several posts here give me questions, AR 91, AR 92 ? Was there a 92 or is this a typo? "ARs "best switches"? I know quality components should always be used but the "quality" of the switch? What "quality" is being refereed to? Does one switch turn off and on better than another of equal quality? Did AR spec out a certain way to stuff the "cotton" in the enclosure; a fold VS. a wrap up? I found the gasket in the 12 driver broken into several pieces all about 3" to 5" I used some speaker gasket foam I purchased for the 17s; the speaker mounting screws went conveniently right through the foam; but where could I find some original gaskets or should I used that putty AR once used? I was thinking about adding the switches that are on the 91 model; comments? By the way they really sound great!

I have one new tweeter I got at Midwest sSpeakers, It and the other OEM tweeter are just tweeting away! I'll replace the other OEM tweeter when $$$ allow. They sure sound nice! Thanks to all for the input! What would it take to upgrade to the AR91(?) X over?

My 200001-1. Note the square magnet. In my first set of AR 17 the magnets were square too.

I play the electric, acoustic and resonator guitar; all have a completely different sound and all probably would benefit from an Amplifier (amp/amps) and speaker designed just for each one and sometimes you can get them. There are 2 types of amps used and 2 types of speaker enclosures. Solid State and tube are the amps and open speaker cabinets (cabs) and mostly sealed cabs. The open cabs are usually combination (or combo) amps that house the amplifier AND the driver and the other has a separate enclosures for the amp and the drivers. I say they are mostly closed because the cabs are connected to the amp with a 2 conductor 1/4" jack; sometimes shielded cable is used; so there is at least one if not two 1/4" holes in the back of the cab. Sometimes the driver is installed from the front of the housing and sometimes from the back. Many times you'll see a Celestion used in the famous 4 X 12" 1961A and B cabs Marshall makes. Marshall uses the same model speakers in combo (open cab) amps and the other mostly sealed cabs. The same speaker sounds way different in each application. I'm a big fan of the mostly closed cabs, I can't see how one or two 1/4" holes in the back of a cab can be called a vent but by definition they are vents, the combo cabs remind me of my Father's Sylvania Mono Hi Fi from the late 50's with radio and turn table, it had one 12" and one 4" driver with a simple crossover. It had a Masonite cover on the back that was vented for the tube heat generated inside, it had horizontal openings for air to get in and out and I'm sure some of the sound but I'm also sure that wasn't on the minds of the engineers at the time. I know guitar amp drivers aren't made anything like a fine audio driver, the guitar driver has a lot less to do. I have never heard the amount of differences in stereo amp/driver quality that I have with guitar equipment. I belong to the tube amp side of the discussion, they provide a warmer sound, have a more natural distortion although solid state amps have a lot to offer and are getting better every year. Many solid state amps try to sound like tube amps, no tube amp manufacturer (MFR) will ever try to emulate a solid state sound. So what would make a great guitar driver? What would make a great enclosure? Those are questions that will have subjective answers of course. But as we all know facts are inconvenient things. Certainly we can apply Hi Fi speaker technology to this question. In guitar amps high wattage doesn't mean a lot louder, the decibel difference in say a 20 or 30 watt amp and a 100 watt amp is about 7 decibels. If you drive the 20 watt amp (turn it up) it's going to distort a lot easier/earlier than the 100 watt amp, the big difference is "head room" or the ability to go loud without distortion.

No, I do not, flood areas are at the feet of the mountains for the most part, and I do not live along a river or near any mountains. Thanks!

The caps for all my AR speakers arrived today (Sunday!) or they were put in the mail box after I got the mail on Saturday... Anyway... I soldered in the 6.2sUf in the four AR 17 I have. I'll listen to them in a couple of days, in one set the "T" nut kinda ripped that MDF up a little so I glued a piece of 1/8" plywood behind the T nut location, tomorrow I will pick up some new T nuts and a longer screw and finish the re-installation of the 8" driver, Also tomorrow I will replace the foam ring on a 20001 driver and install those in my first set of 17s. I found a 20001 and bought it; I will watch the sources and pick up another, once that is done both pairs will have original spec drivers installed. I have a Sony CD/dvd player that holds 400 disks, I'm loading it and entering the disk ID info by hand, most CD/dvds don't have the ID info on them so it has to be entered manually. I'm also in the process of ripping the disks to a SSD just to make things a LOT easier.

That is so cool it's FREEZIN' !!!

You maybe right, they might have come in one box, it was in 1978 I bought them. What sticks in my mind though was the sales guy says "I'll make sure you get a serial numbered pair." Don't know why he'd say that unless he was brown nosing me...

Well, I got a pair (serial number wise) of AR 17.