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briodo

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About briodo

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado Springs
  • Interests
    Music, skiing, computers, and AR speakers

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  1. Great to hear and congratulations on the find. You got yourself one heck of a deal! Just a suggestion based on personal experience, and you will see across the forum, the crossover capacitors in most AR's eventually degrade. Since you know how to remove the 12" subs, it is certainly worth your while to check to see if someone upgraded them in the last decade or so. If they are original, chances are good they need to be replaced. And it's well worth it. Enjoy...
  2. Those are absolutely stunning. Not sure where along the production process AR went to using a poly coat on these speakers, but I can share my experience with the ones I own. Mine are a later model pair of AR9LSi which required complete strip of the poly coat due to it beginning to lift on the Walnut wood underneath. After stripping the polycoat, I used a simple oil stain rather than redoing with a poly coat. I love the way they look. Mine used a circuit board crossover, which was a first for me with any AR. Made it rather interesting to rework the caps. Like @harry398
  3. Agree with Stimpy, the cap degradation impacts the sound in ways it is hard to describe. 15 years ago I was ready to sell my AR9's due to poor sound quality. Then I found this forum. They are back to my favorites. While adding a tweeter can help with a specific frequency band, there is a lot of excitement in the bands covered by the upper and lower midranges, which is where things can become what I would call muddy. The cap replacement ensures they are back to original spec.
  4. I have a pair of them I have never had to open up, an earlier owner did the refoam. They sound simply amazing for such a small speaker. The connector swap is a great idea.
  5. I'm in agreement after several weeks of listening. I simply can't tell the difference between the two.
  6. I've had to do this on a pair of Acoustic Research AR2AX and ADS L570/2 tweeters. The AR's had black caulk on the tweeters, the LS570/2 just used a sticky, foam like seal. I placed a small piece of wood under the back of the tweeter and then placed the scissor jack from my wife's car, into the speaker cabinet under the wood. Slowly and gently turning the screw brought the jack up to the wood and broke the seal between the cabinet and tweeter. Once a corner started to move, I was able to remove the tweeter with my hands. Take it slow and make sure you are not pressing on the cab
  7. On AR91 vs AR 58s, it is a valid question and needs more listening to provide an answer. In the case of the AR58s in question, it may no longer be a valid comparison. The crossovers are from an AR91 with -3/-6db attenuation on tweeters/mids, along with a brace I added since AR91's come with more bracing. My observation is they may be more AR91 than Ar58s at this point. I adjusted the mid and tweeter to -3db which can't be done on a AR58s. The default AR91/AR58s attenuation setting is overbearing to me from a sound experience. I do have a Soundcraftsmen equalizer, but will admit
  8. Thanks for that tip Frank. This is the first time I've had two AR's that are as close to identical as AR58S with AR91 xover and the AR91's. Honestly I admire someone like yourself who took years putting their system together and finally finding Nirvana. It's clear you have built a truly unique system that we all secretly yearn for!! Will try out the stacking using a Crown XLS2002 running the 2 pair in series which should produce 375 w/c at 8 ohms. Not quite the same as the famed Phase Linear, but will be fun to try out.
  9. Agree it would be the correct way to address the top. I've decided to use them until I get ambitious enough for that project!
  10. That is awesome. How did you wire?
  11. And I finished the frame. I do not know the source of the cloth, as I bought it years ago and have enough left to do many speakers. Not sure that was a good idea, but it is what it is. Also the colors in person do not match the photo. The AR91 is original and the two look identical in pattern and color, not sure why my cell came to a different conclusion. All in all I'm happy with outcome. The AR91 and AR58S sound alike, which should not be a surprise. My wife helped me do AB test using speaker out switch on the receiver and we could not tell the difference. Next on the bucket
  12. Bondo is my friend and what I used for the broken corner. Memories of my youth fixing rear quarter panels on my Plymouth Duster. The challenge after was getting a smooth and consistent base to finish, which is why I ended up using paint. After reading what JKent did on his AR11's, I now realize there is a much better way. Also, I would not use Gel Stain on a speaker again. While they came out OK, the finish is imperfect and does not match the true color of the factory finish as shown next to the AR91. It's not a true stain and will require sanding to remove it, which probably won't h
  13. This is an excellent thread I only found after I finished the AR58S. Obvious oversight on my part, and can only roll my eyes at this point for not paying better attention. Truly impressed with the overall process as there is so much to be learned from the phased approach you took, materials researched and applied, all the way to finish of the cabinets and grills. Good on you, Kent, fantastic effort and collaborative discussion, Finding out the smartest person is usually a community effort supporting their passion!
  14. Struggled with the little metal inserts for the 1" driver. Most were falling out and tacky glue did not work, so resorted to clear caulk, which provided a solid adhesive connection between the cabinet and metal insert. Drivers are in and the speakers are installed next to a pair of AR91's with original finish. The only thing I believe has been done to the AR91's was 12" refoam and caps replacement. You can compare the difference in color between the factory finish of the AR91's and my redo using coffee colored gel stain. Not sure I would use gel stain on a speaker again, BTW. While it co
  15. I used a bead of caulk and 6 small screws for each crossover board. The reason for delay s the original tweeter/mid-range screws had rust which I had to repaint and several threaded screw inserts fell out of the particle board around the 12" drivers. Gluing them all back to avoid having to deal with a loose insert if the drivers ever have to come out again. But I am pretty excited to hear how they sound.
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