DavidR

Thanks for the post Larry. P.E. have 2 sizes. I need to measure which are closest. https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-heavy-duty-speaker-grill-guides-12-pair--260-367 https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-small-speaker-grill-guides-12-pair--260-368 I'm thinking the first, the heavy duty, is the best choice. I think my 9s are early as they have wooden frames for the grille material and the reverse pegs. The serial numbers are not very visible any longer and only part can be seen.

I don't know much about the Classic series but I think they were designed by Ken Kantor. Beautiful wood cabinets. According Aphenos.net they retailed for $2400/pair. Condition and area being sold in may affect price. Pictures showing their condition may help those who know this series.

Yeah, Animal37 on eBay, Geez ! I think they're related. Lots show up in California, Texas and Florida.

Guess my memory is getting fuzzy. The AR94 pegs are the wrong size AND wrong style. I will have to buy some of the P.E. ones because I have some broken pegs. @ar_pro Thanks for making me aware of those. 3 different styles available.

Create your own thread in the 'Other Speakers' forum located down near the bottom of the Home page. Would you like me to start it for you?

Well, now you have me thinking about it. I wasn't going to because I figured I'd break most of them while trying to remove them. However, I have a bunch of the pegs from several AR94 harvesting. The second reason is I don't have any of the plastic tubes they put into the cabinet to receive the head of the peg. I'm hoping to find a much better pair of 9s for keeping in the collection. Hard to find around here despite being where they were made. Harry398 finds them all ?

Closer to Klipsch but I don't think they are those either.

Thanks for the tip Pete. I have some pony clamps and they work well. I also use probes/picks that do a good job removing debris.

Leave them be. It will make the sanding more difficult, but ................

Yes, Glenn can work magic. I'll try my best. The damage doesn't show that much being on the bottom. The only veneer I have is from a Bose 901_II cabinet. It's too dark and the grain is slightly different so I just might fill with wood filler and sand smooth and then paint that part black. I'll be happy just getting the cabs sealed and looking decent. I'm actually looking for another pair that has plastic frames for the grille material and in much better shape.

I have finally started the rebuild of the AR9's I picked up along with the 10Pi speakers. I had three non AR speakers that I wanted to get out of the way first. With some sage advice from Glenn (GD70) I tackled the worst cabinet first. The guy I bought them from must have used them outdoors on damp ground as they have damaged/swollen mdf (especially one). I found what appeared to be a dried up earthworm inside by the bottom xover board. I first lifted the bottom xover board and coated the entire bottom and sides up to the woofers with z-poxy resin and then the bottom and bottom plate. Now I'm applying, bit by bit, epoxy based wood filler to damaged mdf shallow areas. Lots of work. Glenn was right about the resin being very difficult to sand. I hate sanding. I have clamps ready once I'm at the point to apply resin to the bottom/sides in hopes of bringing in the warp-age some.

Nothing to be sorry about. One tweeter is original (large ring) the other is an AR replacement (small ring). My 9s are very early with the wood frame for the grille material. The previous owner lived in a 19th century farm house in mid CT. I'm positive he had them outdoors on damp ground as I am dealing with the issue now. They should be good when I'm done but not perfect. I'm not a miracle worker like GD70. I think the tweeters in my 10Pi sound fabulous. Especially very high frequencies/notes.

In my AR10Pi not my 9's. Just started doing cabinet work on the 9's.

The typical solvent for rubber cement is naphtha. Some use hexane (or maybe heptane) but that is unusual due to it having a very low flash point. Naphtha is available at Home Depot and other places that sell paint.

So what if they extend out to 25 and 40kHz. I bet at 50 something you can't her above 15kHz if that high. I'm more than 10 years beyond you and I top out at 14kHz. More than that there just isn't much music above 15kHz anyway. And I'm with RoyC on 2 points: Midwest has a great drop in replacement and good luck with re-engineering the 9 for a new and different tweeter. I suspect someone will be along soon who has repeated, successful experience in rebuilding/restoring the 9-series tweeter #200029.

Those readings are correct and good.

I have woofer #200027 in my AR9s and they measure 4.8 ohms DCR

They have a nice big roll on the surrounds. Hard to tell about the dust cap. The type isn't too important IMO. Anything close to original will be fine. I think the originals were just paper.

AR speakers are hard to resist. You know .

I had one of those come with my 10Pi speakers. It was marked AR Replacement. The original was 200011 IIRC.

The tweeter does not look like an AR tweeter. The 8" drivers are old style AR - must be very early 94's. Usually you find Tonegen drivers. The foam should be attached to the face of the cone not the rear. The tweeter cap should be a 4uF. One resistor looks cooked.

They look very close to each other. I understand what you are describing.

What are your impressions between the two woofers?

don't make dust and don't use a vacuum to remove it.

Epoxy