Jump to content
The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Charles218

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/18/1945

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ann Arbor

Recent Profile Visitors

5,317 profile views
  1. I was in the same position several years ago, needing to thin my stock of old speakers. Obtaining and packing the speakers turned out to be quite frustrating, especially when it came to a pair of AR 3's. I ended up going to a first-rate local shipping store and paying them to take care of the entire process. I believe for $25 per speaker, they double boxed and shipped them, of course the actual FedEx, USPS, etc. fee was on top of the $25. I just had to carry the bare speakers into the shop, at 50 pounds plus per speaker, that was all that I wanted to do.
  2. I have a pair of these Fried speakers and have run them for several years using a solid state amp. I want to switch them over to a Dyna tube amp and I need to know the ohm rating. I've discovered that there is not much info about Fried Speakers in general, and very little about the A/3A online. Can someone help me with the rating for these speakers?
  3. Genek - The flange nuts that mount with screws appear to be a good alternative to the OEM spiked version. My reluctance to install the original nuts had to do with the amount of force required to get the spikes to penetrate the wood. A small pre drilled hole for mounting screws would put much less stress on that very delicate section of the baffle board. For now, I am okay as my second try with epoxy has worked, and I have successfully mounted the tweeter.
  4. David & Ra.Ra, Thanks for your feedback, I'm not a real pro at these and I know when it's time to seek advice from all of the experienced folks on this forum. I did go ahead and add a bit of epoxy earlier this afternoon, though I suspect that I did not use enough as it did not hold. I just tried again with a stronger glue, and this time I added it around the shaft rather than on the flat piece were the prongs are. I will let it sit overnight and see what I have tomorrow. After putting it in place with the glue, I installed a screw, my hope is that the screw will give it the proper alignment. Ra.Ra, I have not been very active here lately, not for a lack of interest but rather because things seem to be more hectic. I expect that within the next couple of years I will be retired and able to choose what I want to do with my time.
  5. As I prepared to mount the tweeter in my 3A, I found that the upper T-nut was loose and not griping the particle board, this caused a bit of difficulty when I removed the tweeter. It appears that the particle board is slightly damaged right where the T-nut goes and I am concerned that I will make it worse by installing the T-nut. My only thought was to remove or bend the spikes out of the way, and glue it in place. Are there any alternatives to T-nuts, or any other suggestions on how to proceed?
  6. A brief follow-up - My son and I spent time tonight listening to the 3A's, he has the gift of perfect pitch and tends to hear the slightest differences in musical nuances. Also, he was not aware of which speaker was original and which had the restored tweeter. The bottom line is we definitely heard differences between the two, but it was very, very subtle. The restored tweeter seemed slightly more detailed. My sense is that had we not been listening with the new tweeter in mind, I don't think that we would have noted a difference. These speakers sound very good, I'm so glad that I have the AR bug. So I would say that Chris' tweeter restore is fantastic, the fact that these fifty year old units can be brought back to life is a major accomplishment. Listening material included the "Marsalis Standard Time" disc, and "Virtuosi" with Gary Burton and Makoto Ozone. McIntosh 2205 Power Amp McIntosh C-30 Preamp
  7. We are planning on listening tonight when my son gets home from work, I will definitely post our observations.
  8. Glenn - I did know about the paint can opener, though it has been several many years since I've opened these up and I forgot about it. It took all of three minutes and one tweeter is out. I thought I would just exchange one for now, and then do a comparison of the old original tweeter and the newly restored unit. Thanks!!!
  9. I recently had Chris restore a pair of 3-A tweeters and I am finally getting around to installing them. The tweeters that are mounted in the boxes now both work, but Chris suggested that I swap them out for the newly restored units. I tend to be extremely cautious when working on these so I am checking to see if there are any tricks to actually pulling them out without causing damage. I've unsoldered the wires and removed the screws. Any suggestions for pulling them out?
  10. Left a PM yesterday, awaiting a reply.
  11. Well I'm really impressed, this seems big to me. We've always had the ability to maintain the woofers and keep this wonderful speakers from extinction, but now it looks Chris has come up with a way to extend their life beyond what we thought was possible. Chris, can you clarify which units your repair applies to, or doesn't apply to?
  12. Hi Ra.Ra! I did have a pair of those, have no idea where they went to or why I only have the grills. Hopefully someone can use these! I would even consider a trade, though nothing comes to mind that I really need. Make an interesting offer and we might have a deal!!!
  13. In trying to clean out my basement I found a pair of Advent grills, and hope to find someone on this forum who can use them. Having owned about thirty-five pairs of speakers all at one time, I can not remember which speakers these go with. The grills measure about 18 5/8" by 10 1/4", and the driver openings are about 8 1/2" by 3 1/2". As you can see from the photos the cloth is quite worn, but the frames are in decent shape as are the badges. If it isn't against forum protocol I would prefer to have someone make an offer as I have no idea what a fair and reasonable asking price would be. Shipping would be added to the selling price. Please get a shipping estimate to your location by checking with your favorite provider, I am in Ann Arbor, zip 48103.
  14. Several days ago I sent a message to the folks at A & M Custom Stands to begin the process of ordering a pair of stands, sadly I received the following response. I had previously heard that he was having health issues, but thought that he had beat the cancer. Wishing him the very best as he fights this very tough battle. I was able to move on a acquire a pair of original AR criss cross style stands, they should arrive in the next couple of days. One of my main concerns was of the stability of this stand, Samberger your comment about stacking two units on one stand totally relived that fear. Thanks to all for your help with this!!!
  15. Samberger, I'm impressed, the criss cross style stands don't look that strong to me, especially when supporting the weight of two 3's. Thanks for the info, however I think I am still leaning towards the steel stands. Regarding the spikes, I guess I was thinking there was some esoteric audio reason for the spikes, but it does make sense that they can help to achieve a level setup. Ar-pro, I really like the look of the AR brand steel frame, especially the fact that the size is exactly the same as the cabinet. I would be nice I A & M could match that.
  • Create New...