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  1. In our showroom in the 1980's, Yamaha's CR 420-Cr 620 and Cr 820 (silver faced receivers) matched extremely well with the Boston A 40, 60 and 100's. Probably those and the BA 150's would do equally well with the bigger Yamaha integrated amps but I don't remember those combinations very well. The rear showroom wall was of an older brick construction and seemed to help the Boston's wall-oriented design really sing!
  2. A pair of XO's from poor little AR-5's that were sadly gutted before I got them. One still had a factory tag: K 17106
  3. A pair of the newer style (1970+) AR2ax's. These were in excellent condition condition with minimal use when I got them and have strong output from the tweeters. The woofers were refoamed with the BA filled fillet surrounds and the pots cleaned about 4 years ago, and have performed well since. The grills and cabinet wood look almost new but one side wood panel has a single scratch about 1/2 inch long. These are on Interstate near the California Oregon boarder and I prefer pick up to keep them as nice as they are. jessi-pm@juno.com
  4. Were I in your situation, I would use original Advent woofers, either the Masonite ring or the steel frame version. This is because the Advent woofer cone/voice coil assembly's were made by Advent in-house and is one reason why OLA's sounded like they did. We are fortunate that these woofers are still available on the used market and are typically quite durable unless abused. However, please note that while I am familiar with the sound of both Masonite (I currently own two pairs of OLA's) and metal woofer Advents, I have never auditioned the Simply Speakers version. Just my opinion, of course..
  5. The woofer coil (L1) is always in series with the OLA woofer, regardless of the tweeter switch setting.
  6. Fortunately, your problem is a disconnected, and not shorted, wire. Chances are highest that the wire is broken where it enters the molded plug. If so, you could try opening the wire's insulated covering there and look for a break. It may also be necessary to cut part of the molded plug as well, for better access. The lesser possibility is that the wire has broken at the tip of the metal pin, especially if it is soldered. Heating and re-flowing the solder ~may~ reconnect things then. To maximize the possibility of success, my suggestion is, that unless you are very skilled at soldering, to take your cable to a electronic repair facility and get their thoughts on fixing it. Be prepared for the likelihood that they will have to do the above work and alter the appearance of the plug.
  7. In these older cables, due to a absence of serviceable replacements I have typically been moved to repair the existing items. Can your plug covers be successfully opened to allow repair? There does not appear to be any seams in this picture but it would be odd that a fully molded plug would short internally..
  8. Your Nakamichi PA7(Threshold Stasis) amplifiers have channel-independent DC offset and high signal or heat protection circuits that should protect your speakers under most conditions. They shouldn't need fuses but your classic Marantz amps really should have a fuse in each speaker line, if just to protect your speakers from DC damage should the output transistors short. As the guys above point out, an amplifier producing distortion can really hurt a Classic Speaker, and a fuse may or may not help with that. The best protection for your audio system is a sensitive human ear controlling the amplifier.
  9. jessiAV

    KLH Model Six

    hi Kent, I couldn't agree more about the rear plate. My solution to sealing was to put a bead of sealant inside cabinet hole where the wood and metal plate meet, but I'd be really curious how you will do it.
  10. jessiAV

    KLH Model Six

    Is it possible there are resistors or caps hiding inside the epoxy? I can't see any but that is how KLH did it in the earliest Six's..
  11. Saved my AR4x's from destruction in early 2014 and refinished their poor little water stained cabinets. They were replaced last year with later 2ax's that were in lovely nick (even the grills), needing only new woofer surrounds.
  12. How comfortable are you with electronic repair? Your KLH 20 stereo system's missing audio channel may not be due to a bad amplifier since it's output stage is capacitor coupled. Yes, the signal loss may well be due to a corroded contact in one of the very old top panel switches. It may even be due to a bad output cap. See this link for it's location: http://www.raincityaudio.us/audio/klh-model-20-electrical-overhaul My guess is that these turntables use an idler wheel to transmit rotation from the motor spindle to the platter. You will know more when you remove the platter itself. Cleaning and/or replacing the idler wheel and the surfaces where it contacts may be all that is necessary. When these stereos are stored on a garage or similar moist location for long periods, the resulting corrosion can stiffen or seize the motor shaft, and freeing them is best done slowly and carefully using various weights and types of oils. These are just simple guesses as diagnosing at this distance is extremely difficult.
  13. If this would be of interest(?); original untouched KLH Six epoxy woofer with textured cone, serial number 068038
  14. If it will help, here is a schematic of the crossover. I'm afraid I can not remember where this was posted.
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