JKent

PS: Don't spend a lot on caps. If you go with PartsExpress use either NPE or Dayton 250v poly. Here's 10uF NPE https://www.parts-express.com/10uF-100V-Non-Polarized-Capacitor-027-340?quantity=1 10uF poly (oops. PE site not working at the moment but you get the idea) Here's 15uf NPE https://www.parts-express.com/10uF-100V-Non-Polarized-Capacitor-027-340?quantity=1 and 15uF poly https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-15-15uF-250V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-432?quantity=1 Here's 20uF poy (or use two 10uF NPEs) https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-20-20uF-250V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-436?quantity=1

Jeff gives sound advice 😉 (pun intended). It looks to me like the other cap is 14MFD. That's unusual, so if that's the case you have a couple of options: You could put 2 caps in parallel as Jeff described (12 + 2, 10 + 4, doesn't matter) or just use a 15uF cap. A capacitor +/- 10 to 20% is usually close enough. Also, NPE caps as Jeff mentioned are fine. The originals were NPE. But for smaller values you could also use film caps. They cost more but last longer. Pay no attention to voltage ratings, as Jeff said, as long as it's over 50VDC but I want to mention film caps are often much higher voltage: 250, 450, even higher. Doesn't matter.

IMHO the original terminals/nuts work fine. You can attach ring crimp connectors to the speaker wires if you wish. The terminal nuts are 8-32 knurled nuts. You may be able to find brass ones in a local hardware or Home Despot store. Or.... I'm the ebay seller so send me an email and I'll give you a better price. Kent

Welcome to CSP Have you returned those black tweets? I was just discussing this matter with another CSP member last week and we're thinking if it fits it's probably fine. Really not much difference among those classic KLH tweets. If you still have those I'd say try them. Kent

Take a look at this thread. It discusses replacement tweeters for the AR-4xa: Or... maybe strip off all the ugly vinyl and apply real wood veneer. Kent

Pretty sure .05 is correct but this is Roy's mod so see what he says. Another (better) option: Send the tweeters to Roy for rebuild.

Try resizing your pics to about 100KB more or less. I use Photoshop Elements, resize pic to about 6" on a side then save at resolution level 8. I've posted hundreds of photos. I've seen Glenn's work and it's beautiful! There have been other good suggestions here but sometimes simple works. Kent

Hey Brad I think the new dope should last a long time, like decades, but Roy would be the one to answer that question with any authority.

Glad you figured it out. They should sound the same. KLH used this driver, called the "Twelve point five" (I don't know why) in MANY speakers. It was the full-range used in later Model EIght radios and all Model Twenty-Ones. It was the mid in the Fives and the Twelves (maybe that has something to do with the name) and was used full-range in various compact systems such as the Eleven (suitcase) and Eleven W. They were used in pairs for the Fourteen, Fifteen and Nineteen speakers. In short, there are thousands of them. Maybe take a look at the Service Manual #60 in our library. It says all KLH woofers and the 12.5 drivers should have the skivvers (surrounds) re-doped whenever the speakers were presented for service. Kent PS: Here's the link http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/klh/other/klh_schematicsservice/klh_service_bulletin_60.pdf PPS: Get some of Roy's sealant dope from Vintage-AR and apply it to the woofer surrounds. It makes a BIG difference on the Model Fives.

Well, you've posted here in the For Sale section. Maybe post some pictures (resize to 100MB or so), let people know where the speakers are located unless you plan to ship them. Maybe say what you're asking or you can just invite people to PM you. AudioKarma has the Barter Town section but you have to pay to use it. Might be a good idea. Then there's ebay.

Nice job on those cabinets! Goodmans is a respected English speaker brand (so you'll find more over on AK instead of here where the focus is on NEW England). I recently refurbished a pair of EE60s for a friend but neglected to take photos. He had purchased them 40+ years ago and they had absolutely no identifying markings. In fact, he thought they were "Max-Sonic" or some such ridiculous-sounding name. Fortunately he had kept a sheet of literature that gave the whole run-down. As I recall, his were similar to yours inside. Two caps, no other crossover. Minimal damping. Crappy speaker terminals. I replaced the caps and installed 5-way binding posts. Also repaired a torn mid and a torn tweeter, glued copies of the spec sheet on the backs and ordered a pair of repro Goodmans grille badges. He has them stacked with a pair of Altec 890C speakers I had previously refurbed and he's loving the setup. Enjoy yours!

Thanks Jeff! Went to my favorite electronics store (Wayne Electronics) and he had them!

A friend gave me what seems to be a very beefy little amp to try out: An AudioControl Architect 110. https://www.audiocontrol.com/home-audio/multi-zone-amplifiers/architect-series/architect-model-110/ Very solid, weighs almost 16 pounds. High current. Good for 2 Ohm loads. The thing is, it's meant for home installations--the kind a pro does. So the speaker jacks are unfamiliar to me. I've attached a photo. So it looks like the left and right speakers are wired to one plug but I don't know what that plug is or where to buy it. I see some that "look" right and most sellers call them a "Phoenix" https://www.walmart.com/ip/Phoenix-Type-Connector-4-Pole-5mm-Pitch-4-Pack/362750086?selectedSellerId=101025561&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-393207457166:pla-51320962143&wl5=9003579&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=251641453&wl11=online&wl12=362750086_101025561&irgwc=1&sourceid=imp_UyNynFUKXxyNTdX1o92qJUHWUkAzLuw1z1Qrw00&veh=aff&wmlspartner=imp_10579&clickid=UyNynFUKXxyNTdX1o92qJUHWUkAzLuw1z1Qrw00&sharedid=&affiliates_ad_id=565706&campaign_id=9383. I also see similar looking ones on DigiKey, PartsExpress, ebay, etc. Are these the right connectors? The amp was available with 5-way binding posts as an option but this one doesn't have them. I "may" just add binding posts but would like to try the 4-pin plugs before breaking out the soldering iron. Thanks for any help. Kent

Dunno about original but I recommend using only the white water based glue with paper cones. It is very forgiving, you can spread it with a finger, it cleans up with water and if you misalign the pieces you can pull them apart before it dries. The solvent based stuff is needed for plastic cones but it’s a PITA to work with. My AR-93s had been refoamed using the nitrile glue and although they worked they looked so awful I sent them out to Bill LeGall to be redone. Much prettier now 😊

Welcome uarnutz I like that packing tape video though I doubt it’s that simple. I’ve had success with wetting and vacuum but only on paper dust caps. I don’t think water will soften your mid’s dome. I’d give the tape a try. Kent

I haven’t tried them myself but I think it’s the Crown XLS series that folks recommend. The first reference I saw was a post by Tom Tyson, who knows AR. IMHO the “sound” of amplification comes mostly from the preamp. That’s why many people like a tube preamp with a solid state power amp. If you like the sound of the Sansui (and many people do) you could certainly use that as your preamp. Or try the Kenwood and see what you think. There are lots of options and lots of opinions. I use DB-1a preamps in two systems and like them but it’s a personal choice.

A pair sold on ebay in November for $475. That seems very high to me.

Do a Google search. Sort of a newer/cheaper version of the 3a. Be aware there were 58, 58B, 58BX 58BXi and 58S. Maybe others. I’ve never owned any of them but I think the B version could be nice if the price is right. Probably need new foams and the vinyl cladding is ugly.

This may work but you'd have to change the plug to an 1/8" type https://www.amazon.com/UpBright-Adapter-Replacement-MODEL-57A-14-1800/dp/B00ENZCJLG Maybe something on this page https://www.amazon.com/s?k=14+v+power+supply&rh=n%3A10967101%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A41942722011&dc&ds=v1%3AeZT8hdY3CngFPtXFEgTxV9dUpU3JM31fn1vZ8DSbI6w&gclid=CjwKCAiAkrWdBhBkEiwAZ9cdcH2M0kPs-FXFchBwcXpREqzxFH0m2iXCShpDr0sErcE48M1OBSxjdBoC1AgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409999158419&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003598&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=14971011119077613125&hvtargid=kwd-5256410057&hydadcr=19107_11276305&qid=1672342567&rnid=41941869011&tag=googhydr-20&ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_eight_browse-bin_1

Take a look at this old thread. I believe you need a "wall wart" that will output 13 to 14 volts AC.

Although I have never personally owned NAD gear the brand has a very good reputation. Personally, I like vintage American amps with vintage American speakers so I'd say if you like the NAD receiver, go for it. BUT I agree with Aadams that any amp that old should be thoroughly checked by a qualified tech. I've used vintage amps by AR, KLH, DB Systems, Hafler, Adcom, McIntosh, Dynaco, Sylvania (don't laugh--check out this site https://www.vintagesylvania.net/?page=components&category=recv ) and others in my systems but always after complete and thorough servicing. One leaky old cap could spell disaster. I also agree that running 2 pair of 4 ohm speakers would be a bad idea but you stated in the OP "not at the same time" so I think you're safe. Just my 2 cents.... Kent PS: I "thought" the NADs were American made but a Google search showed the 7080 was made in Taiwan. Still a nice unit but I have to ask why that particular unit? The Audiogon article you linked did say it was TOTL and pretty much raved about it. If you want vintage there were also lots of nice Japanese models. Over on AK there's a thread "most beautiful receiver" or something like that. https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/best-looking-vintage-receivers.293186/ or https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/best-looking-receiver-of-all-time.127469/ If you want new, the Crown professional amps are very powerful and very reasonably priced.

Those pots do look good so you may want to clean them up. Definitely replace the caps. The can cap may be ok but the wax one is probably toast. AR4x speakers sound great when functioning properly. Clean the pots, replace the caps and mount the woofers with proper gasket tape and check the sound again. I’d also check the tweeters while the woofers are disconnected.

Welcome to CSP DM Very nice. The 4x's are very good sounding speakers, so something is amiss. I suspect the 20uF wax capacitors have drifted and the pots are shot. As for the woofers, Im pretty sure there were a few woofer styles in the 4 series but they all had cloth surrounds (and none had that external gasket). I suggest you pull the woofer. You'll have to do that to replace the cap and pot anyway. See if you can identify it or post a picture of the back with any markings here. There's probably some of the original dried putty sealant around the perimeter of the woofer cut-out and that's what's making it angle out a bit. It's also possible that woofer does not have a good seal, adding to the sound issue. If it's a woofer from a later AR speaker it may be OK to keep it. In any case I'd do the electronic work first and then audition them. The slight difference in color is easily corrected. If the veneer is otherwise good, I'd clean both with mineral spirits then use clear Watco Oil on the dark one and walnut Watco Oil on the light one. But I see you're a woodworker so you probably know what to do (and if you have a better method please share it). Kent

THEY'RE BACK Please PM me with your email address, what you need and a mailing address. I'll send you an exact price quote. Thank you! Kent

"Squawker" doesn't sound very hi-fi 😀. That looks like a Mitsubishi logo on there but Panasonic also made that model squawker. I don't know whether Rectilinear ever used Japanese drivers but "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I'd just do the re-foam and install new crossover caps. My only first-hand experience with Rectilinears was with the Mini III, XI and XIa. They all need new caps.