Finally working on the AR-3. Pics and usual dumb questions.

[RoyC]

23 minutes ago, Reel Man said:

Yeah, I planned on sending the mids to Roy anyways for servicing; hopefully, the other one is just low on output. On a related note, does anybody fix AR-3a mids and tweeters? Pretty sure a tweeter is out on my 3a; I have to ohm it soon. Also, how hot will the resistors get? Do I need to be concerned about them being too close to the masonite?

I wouldn't be concerned about the resistors. In fact, I often run leads from the L-pads and glue them to the cabinet brace just to make installation easier.

Two of us are repairing the 3/4" black dome tweeter used in the 3a and other AR models. Chris1this1 is the other forum member. He does a great job of winding a new voice coil to original spec.

I have had limited success repairing the AR-3a type of mid, and I'm not aware of anyone rebuilding this one.

Roy

 

[Reel Man]

What kind of glue? Hot glue gun type, maybe? I'm thinking I bought one(haven't seen it in awhile).

[RoyC]

9 minutes ago, Reel Man said:

What kind of glue? Hot glue gun type, maybe? I'm thinking I bought one(haven't seen it in awhile).

I usually use Goop, Gorilla Clear Grip, or E6000 for crossover components these days. They are all essentially the same.

[Reel Man]

Ooooooouch, that was disappointing. I worked hard this week on the second crossover for the other cab, installed it, but the mid AND tweeter aren't working on this one. I'm hoping it's these terrible leads causing the issue. They're too small for my meter to check for continuity. I put some bits of copper wire to solder the delicate leads on, as a few were broke. My second try did get sound out of the tweeter briefly. If I understand correctly, Roy C puts new leads on these when he services these? I do get continuity to the posts. EDIT: I see vintage AR repairs these, so off to Roy they go.  I'll assume I should I send the working tweeter as well? For balanced output? Yeah, probably. I'll have to compile the shipping materials (I build industrial equipment, and the parts come in good packaging).

[RoyC]

10 hours ago, Reel Man said:

Ooooooouch, that was disappointing. I worked hard this week on the second crossover for the other cab, installed it, but the mid AND tweeter aren't working on this one. I'm hoping it's these terrible leads causing the issue. They're too small for my meter to check for continuity. I put some bits of copper wire to solder the delicate leads on, as a few were broke. My second try did get sound out of the tweeter briefly. If I understand correctly, Roy C puts new leads on these when he services these? I do get continuity to the posts. EDIT: I see vintage AR repairs these, so off to Roy they go.  I'll assume I should I send the working tweeter as well? For balanced output? Yeah, probably. I'll have to compile the shipping materials (I build industrial equipment, and the parts come in good packaging).

New leads are part of the deal.   If you would like more details, send me a PM.

[Reel Man]

How paranoid should I be about the vent holes in my L-pads? I've seen older threads that used plastic electrical boxes used in open ohmite pots, but that would be a real pain to tear my stuff apart. I could also use more modern fiberglass, as I'm reading the old stuff is harsh on pots.

[giovanni56]

Il 20/11/2022 alle 22:44, Reel Man ha dichiarato:

Più armare. Probabilmente posso abbassare i tappi per un tiro più diretto alle pentole; Lo farò per il prossimo. Non avevo i miei buoni spogliarelliste e piegatrici, quindi mi sono fermato qui. Chiunque stia contemplando questo per i propri altoparlanti, consigliatoi un tappo Solen da 24uf 400v, (che non ho pensato prima a Google), sono andato prima all'audio di Dayton. Un tappo è più facile di due. I potenziometri da 16 ohm pulirebbero anche il cablaggio, poiché i resistori rendono più difficile la saldatura.

Hello, Merry Christmas!
please explain to me how the two rheostats are connected by attaching a diagram, thank you. Particularly how the 25 ohm wire R is connected.

[RoyC]

On 12/10/2022 at 5:40 PM, Reel Man said:

How paranoid should I be about the vent holes in my L-pads? I've seen older threads that used plastic electrical boxes used in open ohmite pots, but that would be a real pain to tear my stuff apart. I could also use more modern fiberglass, as I'm reading the old stuff is harsh on pots.

There is no need to be concerned about the vent holes.

[RoyC]

35 minutes ago, giovanni56 said:

Hello, Merry Christmas!
please explain to me how the two rheostats are connected by attaching a diagram, thank you. Particularly how the 25 ohm wire R is connected.

Page 15 of the "Restoring The AR-3a" document has diagrams.

[giovanni56]

L'8/10/2022 alle 19:15, Reel Man ha detto:

Quindi pensi che siano mogano? Non ero sicuro di riconoscere Cherry, ma il legno sembra quello delle chitarre Gibson che ho posseduto nel corso degli anni. Pensavo anche che la finitura dura fosse di fabbrica, ma l'hanno fatto? Ho comprato L-pad 5 anni fa, con resistori, poiché questi vasi erano terribili e non funzionavano un po' (di recente mi sono imbattuto in un filo qui sui tuoi vasi pesanti). Stavo per usare questa immagine qui sotto come modello di cablaggio, con i cappucci appropriati per un progetto/seriale precedente.

The wiring with the 8-ohm potentiometers and the 8-ohm R, I would have done it this way, without using a constant impedance L-PAD potentiometer and the 25-ohm R the parallel to the tweeter.

 

[giovanni56]

4 ore fa, RoyC ha detto:

La pagina 15 del documento "Restoring The AR-3a" contiene dei diagrammi.

Il cablaggio con i potenziometri da 8 ohm e la R da 8 ohm, l'avrei fatto in questo modo, senza utilizzare un potenziometro L-PAD ad impedenza costante e la R da 25 ohm il parallelo al tweeter.

[giovanni56]

On 29/11/2022 at 00:25, RoyC said:

Non mi preoccuperei delle resistenze. In effetti, spesso eseguo i cavi dai cuscinetti a L e li incollo al supporto dell'armadio solo per facilitare l'installazione.

Due di noi stanno riparando il tweeter a cupola nera da 3/4" utilizzato nel 3a e in altri modelli AR. Chris1this1 è l'altro membro del forum. Fa un ottimo lavoro nell'avvolgere una nuova bobina mobile secondo le specifiche originali.

Ho avuto un successo limitato nel riparare il medio tipo AR-3a e non sono a conoscenza di nessuno che abbia ricostruito questo.

Roy

 

Years ago, I had a pair of Ar3a mids that were dumb, with the internal flexible wire disconnected and broken; fortunately the mids could be opened, the templates were fixed with the four screws, they were not the old glued ones, after opening them I reconnected the flexible wire and the mid picked up.

[Reel Man]

If I hadn't already bought the L-pads, and separate 20uf and 4uf capacitors, I would have followed the wiring set-up in this restoration. VERY clean. 

 

[Reel Man]

The AR-3 mids and tweeters are with Roy, as well as a set of 3a tweeters. Fingers crossed.

[Reel Man]

A lucky week, apparently. Roy fixed all 6 of the speakers( Two 3A tweeters, two 3 tweeters, two 3 mids)

I sent. Yay! While the heavy speakers are out, I need to repair the finish, as they are just too light not to do it now.

Edited September 17, 2023 by Reel Man
accuracy

[Reel Man]

I've been sparing with pictures, as I've used up half I can post. These are what the mid and tweeter look like after Roy works his mojo on them. AR speakers are kind of like Nakamichi decks - popular new, lots of parts, and a lot of support if you need servicing. Roy painted these; I wasn't sure the tweeter WAS painted at the factory, as it was so bare. I will Email my wood-working friend, and see what he says about matching the original finish.

[GD70]

Regarding the finish, every set if ARs I’ve restored have all been sanded to the veneer surface, then I wipe on Watcos natural color Danish oil. It brings the color back as original. It usually takes five-six applications until the veneer stops absorbing the oil. I never apply it with a brush, only with a cut up t-shirt or old sock. 

[JKent]

2 hours ago, Reel Man said:

I've been sparing with pictures, as I've used up half I can post.

Try resizing your pics to about 100KB more or less. I use Photoshop Elements, resize pic to about 6" on a side then save at resolution level 8. I've posted hundreds of photos.

7 minutes ago, GD70 said:

Regarding the finish, every set if ARs I’ve restored have all been sanded to the veneer surface, then I wipe on Watcos natural color Danish oil. It brings the color back as original. It usually takes five-six applications until the veneer stops absorbing the oil. I never apply it with a brush, only with a cut up t-shirt or old sock. 

I've seen Glenn's work and it's beautiful! There have been other good suggestions here but sometimes simple works. 

Kent

[GD70]

3 minutes ago, JKent said:

Try resizing your pics to about 100KB more or less. I use Photoshop Elements, resize pic to about 6" on a side then save at resolution level 8. I've posted hundreds of photos.

I've seen Glenn's work and it's beautiful! There have been other good suggestions here but sometimes simple works. 

Kent

Thanks for your kind words Kent! 

[GD70]

2 hours ago, Reel Man said:

I've been sparing with pictures, as I've used up half I can post. These are what the mid and tweeter look like after Roy works his mojo on them. AR speakers are kind of like Nakamichi decks - popular new, lots of parts, and a lot of support if you need servicing. Roy painted these; I wasn't sure the tweeter WAS painted at the factory, as it was so bare. I will Email my wood-working friend, and see what he says about matching the original finish.

I’m also out of room for posting pics, but here’s the link to my 1965 AR3 resto thread on AK. Lots of pics including veneer repairs and the refinish.

Cheers, Glenn

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/toilet-paper-stop-yields-a-pair-of-ar3s.735482/

[Reel Man]

I'm familiar with that thread, and the other AR-3 threads you've posted, as you've commented on all my threads. If you were a little closer, I would probably have you do the cosmetics. If they were walnut, I probably would use touch-up makers and crayons, but mahogany seems to be pretty uncommon, so they should get some love. An unexpected cost I wasn't considering is a new amp, or a re-cap, as my newest amp is most likely a late 90's purchase, and Roy commented on an amp thread how many blown tweeters he's been getting from old amps. My Onkyo looks reasonable to work on, and I'll take off the cover soon to investigate, as I sure don't want to blow my new 3 and 3a tweeters.

[Reel Man]

Update! I eventually asked my friend about re-finishing the speakers, and he quoted a quite reasonable price. He got them in May, and surprised me this morning with them. They look great; we were both pleasantly surprised.

[lARrybody]

Those cabinets are super nice. Your friend did a excellent job. 

[GD70]

They look great! I’m assuming by now they are back together and you’re enjoying the music!

[Reel Man]

Yes, I worked on them the week ending labor day. I touched-up the black paint, and it's very surreal seeing how nice they look now, and hearing the nice sound coming out of them. I still need to hook up my EQ in the other system, as I'm to used to using one. I left a card with my name, Roy's, and the gentleman who re-worked the cabs in the cabinet, with a date on it, so when it's restored in 30 years, they'll find it.