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About RoyC

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    Latham, NY

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  1. Yes... Your speakers are lookin' good!
  2. If your speakers have the red/orange dome, the leads are aluminum and require special solder. The leads of the black dome tweeter are copper. Roy
  3. Millersound could repair it, but the rebuild kit results in a somewhat different response compared to the original. If these were driven hard enough to fry the resistor wire (a rare occurrence) all the drivers should be checked independent of the level controls and crossover. The capacitors should be measured or simply replaced. If you are not experienced, and are located near Millersound, just have Bill check everything out. Roy
  4. The speakers were probably driven at high volume for an extended period of time. The burned resistor wire is in series with the midrange. Roy
  5. Lookin' good from here! Roy
  6. That really is some nasty solder work. Those speakers did not leave the factory that way! Other than some discussion here in the forum I have not worked on a pair of 4x's with your crossover. The closest I've come was a pair with only the 20uf half of the dual capacitor in use. The other half was never connected. I will be interested in your experience with the new pots.
  7. Good catch, Jnkns. I saw the snipped green wire soldered to the #1 pot terminal and assumed it was a by-pass, as this terminal is typically connected to the capacitor in other AR models. The schematic is correct for your version of the 4x, so disregard my red "X" and drawn green line on your photo. Are your other speaker's connections the same? What type of level control have you chosen?
  8. I could not agree more with ar_pro. Coincidentally, I saw this thread just before I began working on another pair of AR speakers today, and decided to take a couple of photos of reality (below). These show the connections on the other side of an AR cabinet input terminal board. There are also 2 washers and a nut for each ordinary screw terminal on the outside. This is not to mention the mundane push-on connections of AR drivers used after the mid 70's...connected to the usual 18 and 20 gauge crossover wire. "...Some of the information that was put forth here about using skinny wires is so
  9. The woofers appear to have been re-foamed fairly recently, and the work looks pretty good from here. The tweeters' suspension foam is a bit rough, but that goes with the territory, and can be remedied if it proves to be a problem. The tweeter and mid level controls will probably require attention. In fact, the tweeter level control is the most likely cause of the non-responsive tweeter. Be prepared to do deal with some work inside the cabinets. Roy
  10. You can also somewhat tame the HiVi tweeter/mid combination by simply adding a parallel 25 ohm resistor across the tweeter as well. There is probably not enough experience with rebuilt tweeters to definitively answer your questions. They have been around for a few years. The modern construction of the HiVi tweeter and the use of the parallel inductor is likely to make it more durable and consistent, but rebuilt tweeters are easier to install and sound closer to that of the original. Roy
  11. Jnkns, Your specimens are very early versions of the 4x. The crossovers are original to this version, with a 20uf capacitor in series with the tweeter and a 24uf capacitor in parallel with the woofer. I've drawn on your photo to help clarify the circuit. The bracket holding down the dual 20uf/24uf capacitor is actually part of the circuit. see below... I noticed the pot in your photo has been re-wired to by-pass the wiper. One of 2 green wires formerly connected to the #1 terminal has been cut and soldered to the #2 terminal. It is very important to correct this when you install the
  12. Very nice work, Vern... Some people find the HiVi tweeters to be too bright. I noticed your woofers are the later replacement version. When this woofer was used in the later 2ax, the midrange resistance ("DCR") was raised to 9 ohms from the original 6 ohms. If you find the tweeter/mid combo to be forward you could try adding a 3 ohm resistor in line with the mids if their resistance measures 6 ohms, and/or go with rebuilt tweeters. Roy
  13. They worked out well for an AR-3a restoration this past week. They are substantially heavier than the original pots. Roy
  14. I have not "modded" anything for this forum member. Roy
  15. I cannot provide confirmation. What is the source of your information?
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