DavidR

AR speakers are hard to resist. You know .

I had one of those come with my 10Pi speakers. It was marked AR Replacement. The original was 200011 IIRC.

The tweeter does not look like an AR tweeter. The 8" drivers are old style AR - must be very early 94's. Usually you find Tonegen drivers. The foam should be attached to the face of the cone not the rear. The tweeter cap should be a 4uF. One resistor looks cooked.

They look very close to each other. I understand what you are describing.

What are your impressions between the two woofers?

don't make dust and don't use a vacuum to remove it.

Look into someone who does either bodywork painting or furniture restoration. There's a guy in Natick (Furniture Smith) and another in Holliston (Kevin Bianchi) who do furniture resto.

I'm in Framingham and I have a sprayer and compressor but haven't sprayed lacquer in years. I don't have a proper set up and it can be dangerous indoors w/o ventilation. The fumes are deadly and highly flammable. Have you looked at using Deft? It can be brushed on. Even with Deft you need a mask and good ventilation.

I attached a link to a thread that covers home made stands.

I now believe in bypass caps after recapping my AR91s with Dayton; the 1% PMPC on the smaller values and the 5% MKP on the larger caps. I was unable to listen for very long before them getting 'under my skin' because of listener fatigue. I now use bypass caps on both electrolytics and film caps but usually only on the series caps. The idea was promoted by George E. Short III, President of North Creek Music Systems. He worked for AR for a while. He designed and built speakers, made crossover improvements for many well known speakers and made very good film caps: Zen and Crescendo cap . I had read his white paper on the theory that he had posted on his website - wish I had downloaded it before he took it down upon his retirement. I wrote to him and requested he post it again but he never did. The idea (in short) was to use a small cap, the bypass cap, in parallel to the base cap. The bypass should be up to 10% of the base cap value. The bypass should be a better quality and higher voltage rating. Like a metallized film cap on an electrolytic base cap and a film & foil with a metallized film base cap. He also had another system called Cascading (the Cresendo caps were used) where several bypass caps were used; each addition being smaller in capacitance value BUT higher in voltage rating. JBL used bypass caps in many of their high end speakers. They used very small value polySTYRENE with a polyPRO base cap. The idea was that the bypass would add it's own characteristics to the base cap AND it would aid in a faster discharge of the base cap. I found that a good bypass would clean up the white noise (grain and glare) in the music. I concluded this with AB tests. I like the Vishay 1837 PP 0.01uF on electrolytics and AudioCap Theta (tweeter base cap) and Cornell Dublier 940C on larger base film caps. I'll be adding a CD940C 0.1uF to my 2500uF cap bundle in my 10Pi and cascading the tweeter in my 91s by adding an RTE polystyrene 5000pF to the current Clarity CSA + AudioCap Theta combo.

Thanks for the info. Home Depot works for me. Are those your empty 90's on eBay?

Nice work Harry How does one lose a woofer? Do you test the dayton caps ? I bought some small ones and had varying results. The 2.7uF were spot on, the 3.3 were like all 5% high, the 8uf were just a bit on the low side but acceptable. Where do you get your Watco oil?

I had two M1.0t modified to 450 wpc. Hated the brittle sound of the 1.5. The 500T was modified BUT didn't like 4 ohm speakers too well and made my Bose 901_II sound muddy in the lower mids where it should shine. The 1.0t's were OK but one had a transistor let go - 70vdc to the speaker. I was going to try the TFM series but that's when my wife made her famous comment. I'm very happy with my Emotiva amps.

Everything should improve. I would have used Mundorf ECaps on the tweeters and mid circuits and Bennic elsewhere but have been told the P.E. caps are good.

I went thru several different carver amps, including modified ones. My wife said why are you always buying old amps, try something new. I did and never looked back.

I have a Jantzen CrossCap with a Cornell-Dublier 940C for bypass (much higher voltage rating). I've had it for a while; before the Clarity CSA's came out.

I do like them. The acoustic version not the ported; althou the ported are very durable. I've had a pair since college (early 70's). They create a nice rumble. There is something about listening to a full range driver. They are not as detailed or articulate as my AR speakers but are nice speakers. I had my EQ rebuilt by DHS Speaker Service and it made a big difference, especially in the treble.

9's for the fronts and Bose 901_II for the rears: 2.2 system each powered by SA250 amps. The 10Pi are staying on the tube amp. I may loan the 91's to my son in place of the TSW610's.

Me too. Using AudioCap Theta on the tweeter caps and a Cornell Dublier 940C on the UMR cap Just in case I have some Mundorf ECaps on hand and ready to go.

I'm DONE with Carver amps. I have a Limited Edition Studio Reference amp by Emotiva; the SA250. Actually, I have two.

The 9's will be ALL NPE caps except for Vishay 1837 bypass caps on the tweeter and UMR npe's I've decided to use film in the 90's. Clarity CSA on the tweeter and UMR.

I've given the 10Pi a few hours of listening and was listening to Grover Washington Jr. 'A Secret Place' last night on vinyl with my tube amp. These speakers are really opening up. OMG! Loving them.

Hi Glenn ! The first set of tweeters were not well packaged and arrived with some damage. MidWest Speakers was excellent about replacing them and packaging them per my request. The second set sound VERY good. If there's a difference between them and the AR 200084 then I can't detect it. (there's another thread that deals more with this). The original AR 200011-1 went OL. I don't know if these can be repaired or not. It had low output in the HF when I bought them. I'm going to make the woofer swap/change per Fedeluigi and Aadams suggested. My first thought on the 9 with the soft bottom was to pull the lower xover board and coat the inside first with Z-poxy, then do the base. I think the bottom 'plate' with the hole detaches. The coat that and finally address the lifting veneer.

I thought I had a picture of the backs but I don't. They are very nice. Maybe tomorrow I can get one.