Doug G.

Yes, the square Masonite tweeter board butts right up against the rear of the grille frame opening and the result is a relatively flat surface behind the tweeter cone. Doug

In 2017, I had several fail, prematurely, I thought, and I refoamed them. At the time, I wasn't sure if I had completely removed solvents used to remove the old surround materials from the frames and those solvents may have attacked the new foam. This last time, I made absolutely sure all solvents were removed before installing the new surrounds. So now, it's been five years and they are all fine, so far. We'll see. Doug

Picture? Doug

Oh, thanks for the cork information, Norman. I still haven't pursued it yet. Doug

I don't believe there is much difference in performance between the square magnet woofer and the round magnet woofer. Pete B. would be more authoritative on that but I'm pretty sure. Advent used the round magnet woofers on all models after Jensen bought the company and I have never heard anything about a real difference in low frequency handling. I wouldn't be too disappointed. Doug

Actually, cork does seem like a viable material. I'll have to see about getting some. Doug

I have picked out the domes on original Advent tweeters with a needle before and it works OK but the hard material is never going to come back out perfectly again as the creases kind of stay there. It's better than leaving them completely caved in, though. Doug

This is the first I have heard about Robert's passing. Very sad. I was ALWAYS impressed by his postings. RIP. Doug

Oh, and as to your Masonite question, the Masonite rings on the woofers act as spacers to allow a 10" cone to be mounted in the 12" frame. Kloss needed the frame to be deeper than normal so the cone excursion could be great enough to take full advantage of low frequency reproduction and so the voice coil former wouldn't bottom out at high signal levels. At the time, there were no 10" frames deep enough to accommodate that aspect and so, he used a 12" frame and the Masonite rings to span the space. The Masonite on the tweeters just acts as a mounting for the cone/dome. Doug

I don't isolate mine but the top speaker does eventually displace from the bottom one and I have considered putting some kind of friction material between the two, which is what you need. Cotton towels won't stop the movement. My vinyl ones aren't a problem because the vinyl provides enough friction, itself, but my Walnuts are. Keeping them absolutely level helps. My only concern is that whatever I use will mar or discolor the surfaces, which I don't want. I've known some guys, in my life, who probably would have nailed the two together. The same kind of guys who would use duct tape for surrounds. Doug

Welcome, Frank. My main system is quadraphonic with four Advent stacks and it sounds wonderful. Upstairs in my train room, I have another system with just a single pair of Advents. Last night, I was playing an LP of big band hits from the 30's - 40's by Enoch Light's band and it was astounding how good it sounded. That's the thing about Advents. If a source is good,Advents really bring that out. Doug

Welcome, Same, The negative terminal of both goes to negative in the circuit. The "X" at the terminal, regardless of color, denotes the positive terminal. Doug

They look nice. I can't see/read serial numbers on them but I can tell they are fairly late ones - 1975 or later. Doug

The "large" Advents are pretty early ones without the grille on the tweeter and the additional Velcro block under the tweeter to keep the speaker grille frame away from the tweeter, in one of the efforts to avoid the tweeter domes getting pushed in. They look like they are in beautiful condition. The capacitors are very likely to be two 16uF in each one and they should at least be tested to see if they are still in spec as they are over 40 years old. If they are out of spec., replace them with modern equivalents. Install the surrounds exactly like the originals were. Those serial numbers indicate sometime in 1970 or maybe 1971. I lean toward 1970. Doug

Thanks, Kent. As far as the cabinets, it depends on how deep the scratches are. If they are minor (I haven't seen all the pictures yet) you may get by using Howard's Restore-A-Finish and his Feed and Wax products. I used that on my early Advents that were dried out and they turned out beautifully. If the scratches are deeper, you will probably have to sand the finish to remove them but be careful you don't sand through the veneer. Then apply a finish of your choice. The original Advent finish is a rubbed oil. Advent never sold anything but the light-colored grille cloth on them Doug

A revision 2 crossover as on Pete's site. You can use two 8uF capacitors in parallel for the 16 if you can't find a 16uF anyplace. Doug

Yes, no modification necessary. The crossover, as is, does just what it needs to for those drivers.

Your first post led me to believe you knew the origins of the crossovers. Can you post a picture? Doug

Welcome. If both speakers are original Advents with the Masonite ring, the crossover will work for both. Doug

I should post the weights of the Simply Speakers recone kit components: Cone - 15 grams Voice Coil/Former - 12 grams Spider - 3 grams The total weight, adding in the weight of glue, surround, and leads, is 35 grams. This seems to be comparable to the weight of the original Advent cone assembly. One of these days, I will get back to this project and post. Doug

I forgot to mention, too, that the drivers, assuming they both have large magnet tweeters, are the same and will be expected to perform the same with the same crossover components. It's not like they were matching the crossover components to individual drivers or anything like that. Doug

Using a 4uF capacitor instead of the original 5uF won't hurt anything. You probably won't really hear a difference. It had more to do with Advent's measurements to zero them in. However, if you want to maintain the speaker with original values and can't find a 5uF capacitor, put a 4uF and 1uF in parallel. Doug

Among many others, I have two Advent woofers which were originally Masonite woofers from a very early pair. I bought the speakers from a guy who lived in Rochester, MN but was originally from out east. He said his parents bought these, possibly right from the factory in Cambridge when they lived right down the street from the Advent factory in 1970. He was moving back east and didn't want to take them with him. Lucky me. Anyway, at some point over the years, somebody had replaced the original cones and Masonite rings with some 12" plastic cones. The surrounds on them were gone so I never had a chance to hear the speakers with those in them. I had a couple of spare originals so I have been using the speakers with those but decided I want to restore the original woofers to the original configuration. I bought two recone kits from Simply Speakers and they arrived today. They appear to be very good quality, the cones are virtually identical to original Advent cones - thick, ribbed, and relatively heavy with the appearance of having been made the same way. Before I start, I want to know exactly how to determine the position of the cone along the voice coil former so the voice coil is centered in the top gap plate so I have some research to do there or calculate it. There is also the possibility of reusing the original voice coils/formers as it looks to me that's what they did when they installed the plastic cones. I will be able to tell better once I remove those cones from the frames. I know the originals are copper (brass?)/aluminum and the Simply Speaker ones are Kapton. I also need to either find a couple of Masonite rings or make them, which I don't really want to do. Does anybody know a source or have a couple they could sell? And now, me being a person who dislikes encyclopedic posts, have gone and done it, myself. Doug

Wow! I'll second THAT! Thank you for that information! Doug

So, basically, the woofers aren't working. Is that what you are saying? If that's the case, that would explain the "transistor radio" sound. Doug