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redpackman

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About redpackman

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  • Birthday July 12

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    Minnesota
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    Music (Classical and Jazz), Baseball, NFL Football, photography

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  1. OK, I admit, I"m no expert when it comes to crossover electronics. But go to the Human Speaker page dealing with EPI speakers in the late 70's. https://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epimodels.htm#more Both the EPI M180 and EPI M250 have identical crossover schematics. They both have identical speakers in that configuration if you look at the replacement speakers one can order there. I have a M250 that I just picked up. Three of the four woofers in that M250 pair rate at 6 to 8 ohms. One rated at 4 ohms. If you will notice in both the M180 and M250 both woofers are wired in parallel.
  2. Pulled this from an old EPI M250. The ohm meter says it's 4 ohms. All the other speakers in the M250 speakers are 7 to 8 ohms. Here's a photo of the identification number on it. Is this an EPI manufacturer or an addition later. It has a square magnet just like all the others but there are other differences (dust cap diameter etc.).
  3. I just picked up some nice EPI M250 speakers. They are not from the same series as you will see from the serial numbers (0396 and 1909) and other differences. If I can read the speaker dates on them properly, I know one at least is 1977 and another may be too, but the remaining two have no discernible dates. The speakers both have the same capacitor values, two 10 uf caps in parallel each (as you can see from the photos). They are obviously original because they're buried in the hot glue from the factory. Two are electrolytics and two are the old red "firecracker" type. Original. They have
  4. Anyone know the specs on these speakers (according to stamp inside it says MFG. date is January 1972). I'm specificially looking for the sensitivity rating. Thanks!
  5. Here is a photo of an early 60's Alnico woofer from an AR-3.
  6. I opened up an AR4x which, I believe was untouched since its creation. It's serial number: 84366 (1966, I believe). The crossover I opened up was the same as the picture EXCEPT the yellow wire running to the tweeter was on the level control's base, and conversely both wires running to terminal 2 on the level control were green. I understand that AR changed it's crossover design a few times and one of those changes was to run the tweeters out of phase with the woofers. Rumor or truth, I know not. All I know is that my speakers were apparently congruent with the crossover schematic post
  7. You asked for some photos of the progress of the rebuild. The original crossover with the wax dual cap which had shifted WAY off it's specified ratings. Time to get rid of them. New Erse poly-film caps. A view of the underside of the connecting bloc for the mid and tweeter (not often seen from this angle). Some wood restoration, before and after the oil rub. Boxes awaiting the drivers, and, of course the big alnico woofer that weighs about as much as a Thanksgiving turkey.
  8. Thanks for the info GD70!! Mine did not have the oil caps, but the old wax ones. I've posted pictures of them elsewhere with a discussion about using my very basic cap tester showing theme drifting hugely in the 57(?) years since they were installed. I've put in Erse's top film caps to replace them (which my lowly meter indicated were right on, btw). The woofers look and sound good. I've got the tweeters (both "popped" on one side but they have continuity) at a nationally known speaker repair establishment for their attention. I'll probably send the mids in, though I have sound in both o
  9. I was able to get a pair of AR3's this past weekend, and I'm in the midst of restoring them. I've already worked on 2x, 2ax, 3a's, 4x and 4 ax, 5, 6 and 7's. These will be a real challenge, I can see...aluminum wire and all. First things first: the serial numbers on the pair are 09040 and 09063. I'm assuming they are around 1960. Anyone have any information more specific than that? I've only opened one cabinet thus far and have found no dates stamped inside. I believe I'm the first one in since manufacture. Cleaning the tone controls, new Erse poly-film caps (6 uf and 24 uf) etc.
  10. Thought you might find this interesting. This capacitor, removed from a very early 60's AR3 (Serial numbers in the 9xxx range). One can see how far a cap can "drift" in 58 years. The 24 uf cap is now over 60 and the 6 uf cap is around 10 uf. Now, i know my cap tester is hardly a tol model, but it's in the neighborhood.
  11. Picked up AR3 pair today. All looks good but one tweeter has "popped" its suspension. I'm either going to get it repaired or find a replacement. Looking for a genuine original so I can keep it a true AR3. If anyone has one they'd like to sell for a reasonable price, get back to me. Thanks.
  12. What difference would it make if instead of a 150 uf capacitor in the original AR3a schematic the capacitor was at 180 uf?
  13. Hard to tell on the before and after because I just replaced the caps and because of the hole someone drilled in the cabinet, I didn't spend a lot of time listening to how they'd sound "before." All I know is that when I was done, Mr. Allison's genius, once again became apparent. Allison's are remarkable speakers. They are not large, but the sound is fantastic. I've also restored some Allison 4's. Breathtaking. Best sound from a smaller speaker that I have ever heard. Enjoy. If you've got all the drivers working, you are in for a treat.
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