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Doug G.

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About Doug G.

  • Birthday 10/02/1952

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    Austin, MN
  • Interests
    HiFi, Quadraphonics, Model Trains.

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  1. I forgot to mention, too, that the drivers, assuming they both have large magnet tweeters, are the same and will be expected to perform the same with the same crossover components. It's not like they were matching the crossover components to individual drivers or anything like that. Doug
  2. Using a 4uF capacitor instead of the original 5uF won't hurt anything. You probably won't really hear a difference. It had more to do with Advent's measurements to zero them in. However, if you want to maintain the speaker with original values and can't find a 5uF capacitor, put a 4uF and 1uF in parallel. Doug
  3. Among many others, I have two Advent woofers which were originally Masonite woofers from a very early pair. I bought the speakers from a guy who lived in Rochester, MN but was originally from out east. He said his parents bought these, possibly right from the factory in Cambridge when they lived right down the street from the Advent factory in 1970. He was moving back east and didn't want to take them with him. Lucky me. Anyway, at some point over the years, somebody had replaced the original cones and Masonite rings with some 12" plastic cones. The surrounds on them were gone so I never had a chance to hear the speakers with those in them. I had a couple of spare originals so I have been using the speakers with those but decided I want to restore the original woofers to the original configuration. I bought two recone kits from Simply Speakers and they arrived today. They appear to be very good quality, the cones are virtually identical to original Advent cones - thick, ribbed, and relatively heavy with the appearance of having been made the same way. Before I start, I want to know exactly how to determine the position of the cone along the voice coil former so the voice coil is centered in the top gap plate so I have some research to do there or calculate it. There is also the possibility of reusing the original voice coils/formers as it looks to me that's what they did when they installed the plastic cones. I will be able to tell better once I remove those cones from the frames. I know the originals are copper (brass?)/aluminum and the Simply Speaker ones are Kapton. I also need to either find a couple of Masonite rings or make them, which I don't really want to do. Does anybody know a source or have a couple they could sell? And now, me being a person who dislikes encyclopedic posts, have gone and done it, myself. Doug
  4. Wow! I'll second THAT! Thank you for that information! Doug
  5. So, basically, the woofers aren't working. Is that what you are saying? If that's the case, that would explain the "transistor radio" sound. Doug
  6. Check to be sure the surrounds are intact all the way around and that the cabinet is sealed. With everything together, carefully push the woofer cone in and it should return fairly slowly, not immediately. Be sure it's not something other than the speakers, too. Can you hear anything, at all, from the woofers? Also, just because the crossovers look OK, it doesn't mean they are. The components need to be checked. Doug
  7. Doug G.

    OLAs again

    There are blanks, first, for the pictures for me but then they all appear below that. I didn't know or had forgotten they made brown Mortite (mine is gray and is still pliable in the box after 16 years). I guess it make sense. I've even just used a single rope around the woofer but two is probably better. I have even rerolled it after removing a woofer and reinstalling. My 1970 pair is awaiting grille cloth installation and i want to do it with staples. I bought them from a guy who moved to Rochester, MN from out east. He said his parents lived right down the street from Advent's original location and may have purchased them right from the factory. BTW, I always like it when I check in here and see topics in bold on the left. Doug
  8. Yes, I don't know. It appears to be a very neat job on the driver in your picture and, being it's working well. maybe just leave it. It would be different if you could hear a difference between the other advent woofers. I should add that the two I redid with the correct surrounds were not done too well with the surrounds even coming loose in some spots and the outer flange kind of wrinkled. Doug
  9. Doug G.

    OLAs again

    That material actually looks good. I can see very minor differences in thread thickness but that's really only apparent to someone who knows exactly what the original cloth looks like and is OCD about it. How did you attach the grille cloth? I still haven't installed the cloth I got a while ago and I'd rather do it as it was originally done but I have only found one source for 1/8" leg staples and I don't know if they are heavy duty enough to be driven into Masonite. So, I may just use contact cement but I have been hedging. Doug
  10. Yes, it is the wrong surround. It appears to be the surround made for the Masonite woofer with a wider outer flange. Also, the inner flange of the surround belongs under the cone edge, not in front of it. As to whether to replace it with the correct surround, it depends. If it appears to work correctly, no rubbing, etc. you can leave it. A bigger concern is if the surround material is compliant (floppy) or not. It looks kind of rubbery to me but that's kind of hard to tell from a photo. It should feel relatively soft when you poke the roll with a finger, not "bouncy". Now me, it would bug me and did. A few years ago, I bought a pair with those same surrounds and even though the drivers worked fine, I changed the surrounds just because they were incorrect. Doug
  11. Doug G.

    OLAs again

    Yes, these days, the same surrounds are usually sold for both versions of the first Advents (original and New). Some vendors still sell separate ones, as you found, Kent. The only difference is the original surrounds for the original Advents have a wider outside flange where it fits behind the Masonite ring but the ones for the New Advents, with the narrower flange, work fine for the original Masonite woofers, too. The main things are that the compliance (floppiness) and roll size are correct. Doug
  12. Usually, a problem will not present if the speakers are driven at reasonable levels which is why most manufacturers claim the ability of their amps to drive 4 ohm loads. It's just something to be aware of and I believe, if memory serves me (a danger, these days), Advents, whether original or New, dip down near two ohms in some spots on the impedance curve. Pete would know better than me. Doug
  13. Norman, I don't know what you mean by a "metal adapter". The driver frame, in each case, just mounts right into the cutout in the speaker board. Both drivers use the same cone and the only real difference is a slightly greater excursion for the Masonite woofer. The Masonite ring was used to adapt a 10" cone to a 12"frame. While they were selling the original Advents, they developed the all metal frame to eliminate the Masonite ring. The surround fits right into the frame without the ring. Differences in sound between the two models will be due to the change in crossover frequency (1000 Hz. to 1500 Hz) and possibly, the relocation of the woofer to get it closer to the tweeter for better driver integration. Also, in the original Advent, the woofer inductor is always in-circuit whereas in the New Advent, it is switched out of circuit in the "extended" position. There is really no reason the two different woofers would sound any different used in the same speaker and I have found that to be so. There is also no reason the bass extension would be any different between the two speakers. The cabinet size is basically the same and they are both sealed. The position of the woofer on the speaker board doesn't matter. Doug
  14. The thing to remember with solid state amplifiers is, no matter if they have main and remote terminals or not, the speakers are being driven from the same output transistors. There are not separate outputs for the main and remotes. There are merely switching schemes to turn one or both pairs on or off. If an amplifier is capable of driving 4 ohm loads, the switches will typically be wired so the speakers are in parallel with both on. If an amplifier is not designed to drive a 4 ohm load, the switches will be wired so the speakers are in series with both of them on. The way to check is to connect a pair of speakers to, say, the main terminals and turn them on. While they are playing, with nothing connected to the remote terminals, turn the switch for the remote speakers on. If the main speakers keep playing, the switches are wired in parallel. If the main speakers stop playing, the switches are wired in series. A pair of Advents dip pretty low in impedance at some frequencies and are much better driven by a separate amplifier for each pair, even though they are rated at 8 ohms. This is true of most setups. In spite of what manufacturers advertise, a 4 ohm load stresses an amplifier quite a bit more than an 8 ohm load. More current flowing through the output devices produces more heat which, of course, is the enemy of longevity. I have four Advent stacks in my quad system and each pair is driven by its own stereo amplifier - four stereo amplifiers or, in my case right now, two quad amplifiers. Doug
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