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AR915 Crossover Help


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4 hours ago, RoyC said:

only those who have .... calibrated hearing can hear those Solen/Dayton differences

Yes, I fully agree, and since I've had limited but positive experiences using Solen caps, I grew curious to challenge those who refer to them as shrill, harsh, or evil. Like many others, I find Dayton caps very similar and an even better bang-for-buck value. The use of The Boxer lyric is very apt here. ^_^

3 hours ago, DavidR said:

They are now being used in a parallel cap position where frequencies......

Yes, I understand their position in the schematic and that the previously rejected 24uF caps have now been bundled for use in the woofer circuit. Through much measurement testing and several examples of obvious physical failures, many of us have agreed that the black/red Callins-Temple caps can be called all sorts of names, but can you explain why the Solen caps, in your consideration, are "evil"?

1 hour ago, AR surround said:

However, I only achieved excellent results when I heeded Carl and Roy's suggestion of trying a NPE and switched to Mundorf E-Caps.  

I did go back and look at your reporting on various cap combos, and was pleased to be reminded of your satisfaction with the affordable Mundorf cap. I, too, have been recommending the Mundorf E series for those who, for whatever reasons, feel that a Bennic or Erse NPE cap just won't cut it but are still looking for a low-cost cap solution. My introduction to this line of Mundorfs came via CSP member Klaus from Denmark on this site, and I have tried to spread the knowledge that I've gained from his experiences and reporting.

I do understand that your prescription for a re-cap solution was complicated by those pesky, expensive Solen caps lying around, but my comments are mostly questioning the implementation of $60+ worth of caps in a woofer shunt application, as well as all of that soldering, etc. If the need to use your surplus caps had not been a factor, I trust you maybe would have considered this single cap instead. 

595434abad32f_mundorfEcopy.jpg.9d32793b75c8bd1bdd9f6f956e6fb09d.jpg  

 

 

1 hour ago, AR surround said:

However, I only achieved excellent results when I heeded Carl and Roy's suggestion of trying a NPE and switched to Mundorf E-Caps.  

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1 hour ago, ra.ra said:

...I do understand that your prescription for a re-cap solution was complicated by those pesky, expensive Solen caps lying around, but my comments are mostly questioning the implementation of $60+ worth of caps in a woofer shunt application, as well as all of that soldering, etc. If the need to use your surplus caps had not been a factor, I trust you maybe would have considered this single cap instead. 

595434abad32f_mundorfEcopy.jpg.9d32793b75c8bd1bdd9f6f956e6fb09d.jpg  

 

 

 

Actually, I would have used a $1.50 100uF +/- 10% NPE from Parts Express.   I've got P.E. 150uF + 200uF NPE bundles for the 350uF woofer shunts in the AR90's.

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  • 3 years later...

Hi all

I am new to this forum but a keen owner of AR10pi and AR3a improved.

I am strugling here in the UK to get hold of suitable audio grade caps for the 10pi.

In the first few photos on this thread of the 915 crossover there are some black axial caps with red ends and yellow writing. Can anyone tell me what type of caps they are and possibly what make? 

Also can anyone recommend a cap supplier in the uk

any help is much appreciated.

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Welcome to the CSP. Those black caps with red ends are the notorious Callins electrolytics. They are evil and must be replaced.

 I’ll leave it to our UK members to recommend brands and sellers. I seem to recall Falcon was one supplier.

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Many thanks for the replies....that's fast!

I have been on the Falcon website and spoken to them. they can supply 4 of the 5 caps in each speaker. There is a massive ally can electrolytic 2500uf 63v in there that Falcon can't supply, they don't do anything like it.

any ideas of a way around this or a supplier of one? 

I found a Kendeil cap on Ebay but it is 350volt.

 

Gary

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Higher voltage is fine but I’m sure the 2500uF issue has been addressed in these pages before. I’m not sure but I think some members said to leave it. Do you have a capacitance meter?

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Hi

i remember reading that quite some time ago, don’t remember much of the detail and haven’t found the thread since.

I don’t have a capacitance meter, thinking I should get one.

I would have thought after the best part of 47 years, all the caps would be dried up etc.

I know with good and tested drive units these sound awful, no depth, no bass and completely dull and this has happened slowly over the last six months.

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Thanks for the replies and help.

Madison will do MDL caps to make up the 2500uf value. Can get enough to do both speakers with shipping for £100

not sure what the import duties will be.

I think I will wait for Falcon to come back to me with exactly what I need for the rest of them. Get the installed and see what they sound like and go from there.

 

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I have purchased old Spragues from known and trusted sellers.  They work fine.  

If you have listened to these speakers and can't hear a problem then this cap replacement is precautionary rather than remedial.  You could leave the big cans in place and replace all the smaller values.  Cap replacement in working speakers is rarely a big payoff excercise.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all

So, after ordering a couple of 2500 Spragues from across the pond and a full set of Mundorf Ecaps from HiFiCollective, the speakers are singing probably better than I have ever heard them. Very impressed. I am now thinking my AR3a improved would benefit from new caps.

thanks for all the help guys

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4 hours ago, Garys cones said:

Hi all

So, after ordering a couple of 2500 Spragues from across the pond and a full set of Mundorf Ecaps from HiFiCollective, the speakers are singing probably better than I have ever heard them. Very impressed. I am now thinking my AR3a improved would benefit from new caps.

thanks for all the help guys

Are those 2500uF caps bi-polar?

Do you have a link to them.

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3 hours ago, Garys cones said:

Hi

no, they are polarised and a fare bit smaller than the original Callins electrolytics

A polarized capacitor is intended to be used in a direct current (dc) circuit, like a power supply. Most likely, those caps you bought are dc power supply filter caps. They are unsuitable for use in an ac circuit like a crossover.

Crossover caps need to be non-polarized. I would not trust a polarized cap in a crossover circuit. 

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1 hour ago, Garys cones said:

This is what came out

factory fitted

DC4E01EB-D52A-40FD-A00D-C181DAF88A6C.jpeg

 

The NP in 2500 uF-60 V NP on the capacitor you took out of the crossover means it is a non-polarized cap. That is, the cap does not have a negative nor a positive lead as does a polarized cap.

That crossover cap should be replaced with another non-polarized cap of the same capacitance value.

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