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DonT

AR 2A's I Picked Up Today!

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I think I might call these my Crona speakers.  I think the reason I got them is the fear of the virus kept everyone away from the estate sale these where at. I showed up late and they where still there with a $50 price tag on them! I have not hooked them up to anything yet but I plan to check them out good before I do.

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Hey Don, those 2a's look pretty nice, but I would suspect they need a full disassembly and careful rebuild with all components checked out and confirmed. After you've given them a test drive, let us know what you're observing regarding functionality of drivers, etc.

Nice to see the original grille cloth and badges - - with slow and careful attention, you might be able to get those grilles looking real good, despite the one small tear that might be re-stitched. From the rear close-up, those pots appear very crunchy - - you may want to give them a little spray of electronic cleaner/lube before you even try to give them a rotation.

Am not certain, but I think you may have birch cabinets that have a light brown or honey stain by previous owner? Just a guess, but it does not look enough like cherry or walnut.  

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21 minutes ago, ra.ra said:

Hey Don, those 2a's look pretty nice, but I would suspect they need a full disassembly and careful rebuild with all components checked out and confirmed. After you've given them a test drive, let us know what you're observing regarding functionality of drivers, etc.

Nice to see the original grille cloth and badges - - with slow and careful attention, you might be able to get those grilles looking real good, despite the one small tear that might be re-stitched. From the rear close-up, those pots appear very crunchy - - you may want to give them a little spray of electronic cleaner/lube before you even try to give them a rotation.

Am not certain, but I think you may have birch cabinets that have a light brown or honey stain by previous owner? Just a guess, but it does not look enough like cherry or walnut.  

Yes the pots look pretty bad. I agree that they will need refurbished. The original owner had these placed inside a cabinet so they didn't get to bad as far as the finish goes. All I know is I can't wait to here them in good working condition! Pics are of how he used them,

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Well the grill on one came off real easy! It looks like they where made in 1962 from what I can see on the back of the tweeter.

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Were the grills still stapled on? Great job removing them, not a easy task. It looks like you removed the dual midranges first to get access inside the cabinets. Was there rock wool or fiberglass acoustic stuffing inside? Those oil filled capacitors may be still in speck.  I know it is a lot of questions, but I really like 2A's owning several pair. One pair in original shipping boxes with serial numbers 551 and 552. One last thought, be careful with those original grills, that cloth is unobtainable. 

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2 hours ago, lARrybody said:

Were the grills still stapled on? Great job removing them, not a easy task. It looks like you removed the dual midranges first to get access inside the cabinets. Was there rock wool or fiberglass acoustic stuffing inside? Those oil filled capacitors may be still in speck.  I know it is a lot of questions, but I really like 2A's owning several pair. One pair in original shipping boxes with serial numbers 551 and 552. One last thought, be careful with those original grills, that cloth is unobtainable. 

Yes the original insulation was in there. Yes the staples on the front where a bit of a pain. I removed the mids because I couldn't get the woofer out (It is really stuck in there with that black goop). Any advise on how to get the woofer out would be great. I have never heard these before but if they are anything like my KLH 5's I know I will love them.

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Great find. I've owned KLH Fives and AR-2a's and they are comparable. I think you'll like these speakers. I dunno about that grille cloth though--looks pretty bad. Some nice linen from 123 Stitch would certainly look better, if not really authentic.

Refer to the AR-3a resto guide. To get the woofers out try a couple of paint can openers, working around the edges. You may also be able to push from behind the woofer, since you have the mids out.

Kent

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1 hour ago, DonT said:

Any advise on how to get the woofer out would be great.

The tweeters can be difficult too. Especially dealing with those delicate aluminum leads. Here are the tools I use. First I run a utility knife around the perimeter of the woofer basket because sometimes the caulk squeezes out  and hardens against the opening side walls. I have a small butane heat gun and a electric one. Heat around the basket frame and keep prying slightly at different points. Make sure not to  dent the cutout edges or damage the cloth surrounds. The heat should soften the caulk enough that they loosen. As Kent said you can also apply pressure to the back of the magnet. I had a pair of AR12 woofers that someone used Permatex gasket sealer to seat. That damaged to wood baffle getting those out.  What you don't want to do.

 

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After they are out check the masonite rings at  the surround and spider. A lot of times they will need reglued.

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Larry offers good advice. That blue heat gun is good to have, to use with heat shrink tubing. And various pry tools are good. And definitely check the Masonite and spiders. I would just add this: Don't remove the tweeters unless you have to.

As you probably know, those caps are probably good. The pots will need a thorough cleaning or replacement, and the woofer surround dope is dried out. Brush with an old toothbrush and then apply a thin coat of Roys magic goo (available from ebay seller Vintage-AR).

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Thanks for the great advise. I plan to leave the tweeters in. I will try the paint can opener thing and see. I tried pushing from the inside with no result, that is why I remove the mids. When pushing from the inside I got scared I was going to damage something so I stopped. Well I will give it another go.

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I found the easiest way to remove the woofers in AR speakers is to remove all the sealer putty around the basket edges and cab gap. Then you can get a wide blade screw driver under the basket edge and start prying it upward. Use a putty knife between the baffle and screw driver to protect the baffle from the screw driver as you pry the woofer loose. Once you break that seal, it will lift out easily. Notice that greenish color on the magnet? Don't touch it, or breath any dust from it. I would wipe it with wet paper towels before removing it from the cabinet. 

Glenn

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2 hours ago, GD70 said:

I found the easiest way to remove the woofers in AR speakers is to remove all the sealer putty around the basket edges and cab gap. Then you can get a wide blade screw driver under the basket edge and start prying it upward. Use a putty knife between the baffle and screw driver to protect the baffle from the screw driver as you pry the woofer loose. Once you break that seal, it will lift out easily. Notice that greenish color on the magnet? Don't touch it, or breath any dust from it. I would wipe it with wet paper towels before removing it from the cabinet. 

Glenn

I will try that. I will not touch the corrosion on the speakers and clean them real good. Thanks!

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Good-looking speakers, with a desirable woofer, and reliable oil capacitors - congratulations!

You've had some excellent pointers, and I might add to use caution when handling & re-installing the midrange module. The paper cones are usually rather dry, and easily damaged. Best not to touch the cones directly. Also, the plastic  enclosure has become more brittle with age, so be sure to do a good re-seal, and don't torque the screws down too much where the flange could deform, or fracture.

Good luck!

 

 

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8 hours ago, ar_pro said:

Good-looking speakers, with a desirable woofer, and reliable oil capacitors - congratulations!

You've had some excellent pointers, and I might add to use caution when handling & re-installing the midrange module. The paper cones are usually rather dry, and easily damaged. Best not to touch the cones directly. Also, the plastic  enclosure has become more brittle with age, so be sure to do a good re-seal, and don't torque the screws down too much where the flange could deform, or fracture.

Good luck!

 

 

Actually the midranges are in pretty nice shape. They feel pretty good, the baskets are not brittle at all. I already knew about these problems because of my AR 2's. The mids on these are in MUCH better condition.

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Birch? They look great.

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Another question? It looks like my cabinets on these where made with solid wood that was veneered. It does not look like plywood. Did they make these using solid wood of some type and then veneer it? The first pic is one of mine and the second pic I pulled off ebay. You can see a definite deference.

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55 minutes ago, DonT said:

The first pic is one of mine

DonT

When you get time, would you please post images of the miter joints on the rear of your cabs, using the same quality as the as the first of your images in the post above?

Thanks

Adams

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1 hour ago, Aadams said:

DonT

When you get time, would you please post images of the miter joints on the rear of your cabs, using the same quality as the as the first of your images in the post above?

Thanks

Adams

Here they are. Still looks like a solid board that has been veneered to me. I even wet the jointed area to show the grain a little better.

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These are my 1963 KLH Model 6 speakers. I think the material under the venere is called NovaPly. Could this be what DonT has?

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My only set of 2a,s with plywood are the unfinished utility model. All the backs are plywood.

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1 hour ago, DonT said:

Here they are. Still

All the plywood’s and mdfs I have seen have a different (from yours) lock miter tongue and groove. There are some images of early AR3s on CSP with that same joint that are also not plywood.  Thanks

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27 minutes ago, lARrybody said:

These are my 1963 KLH Model 6 speakers.

A little dark. PhotoShop to the rescue!

KLH Model Eight radios had the same kind of lock miter joints.

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So is this something you guys have seen before in AR cabinets? Definitely looks solid. Here is a couple more pics. One shows what looks to me to me a small knot in the wood and the other shows where someone stamped a number 3 in the solid panel. Of course the back is plywood.

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