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sealing woofers properly


Popsicle AR2
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So, I've installed new pots on my AR2s, cleaned everything up inside and out, placed the yellow insulation back inside, hooked my woofers up and tested the sound...all is well.  Does anyone have any tips or suggestions for applying the grey woofer sealant that I just got, in order to seal it all up nice and tight?  I looks fairly straight-forward but I want to make sure I get it right.  Thanks!

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I've always used duct seal, which comes in a block and is usually black in color. I've softened it in hot water to make it more pliable if the weather was cool. I just form a rope of it perhaps 3/8" in diameter and press it in the recessed opening for the woofer. before pressing the woofer in and inserting the screws.

Whether or not this is the proper way of sealing the woofer I don't know. But, it's always worked for me.  I might add that when I remove the woofer initially I always clean off all the old sealer from both the baffle and the driver.

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8 hours ago, Popsicle AR2 said:

the grey woofer sealant that I just got,

can you give more details? Brand? Was it sold specifically as a woofer gasketing material? If it's sort of like children's plasticene "clay", do just what DER said. Many of us use this stuff, is this what you have? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441

I prefer the foam tape sold by PE. It only has adhesive on one side so woofers are easy to remove in the future. https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540

I've never used this but it looks like essentially the same thing: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-8-in-X-3-16-in-X-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R338H/100197882

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I've repaired a pair of AR5s, AR9s and AR6s.  I agree with JKent that the foam tape sold by Parts Express is a good option for the reason he mentioned.  Also, I found the tape fairly easy to install to get a nice air tight seal.  For the price, it is a steal ( I sealed all of the mentioned speakers with one roll and still have some left over.)

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7 hours ago, Jim Pearce said:

I use a product made by Mecklenburg Duncan from home Depot

I haven't heard of that brand but I'll take a look. I like the light grey closed-foam strip. Its a little less dense than the black and squishes better for a better seal.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-3-8-in-x-3-16-in-x-17-ft-Grey-Vinyl-Foam-Weatherseal-Tape-V443H/100205904

 

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1 hour ago, Aadams said:

This stuff works.  I have used it on particle board baffles where mortite can cause problems when trying to remove woofers.

My latest pair of 9's has it and they came from a guy who was an audio engineer who said he has used it on many projects with great success. Easy ON, Easy OFF.

And rather inexpensive, too.

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28 minutes ago, DavidR said:

My latest pair of 9's has it and they came from a guy who was an audio engineer who said he has used it on many projects with great success. Easy ON, Easy OFF.

And rather inexpensive, too.

I prefer the PE foam tape as well, for all the reasons mentioned above.

Roy

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I think if I were yanking drivers in and out on a regular basis I'd use foam as well. My woofers have been out once in the last 50+ years. Replaced my mids 30 years ago. Tweeters out and replaced with HIVI recently. Original tweets out for rebuild then back in so that will make twice for them. If I fall back in love with the original sound of the tweeters then that will likely be it in my lifetime.

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4 hours ago, DavidR said:

I haven't heard of that brand but I'll take a look. I like the light grey closed-foam strip. Its a little less dense than the black and squishes better for a better seal.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-3-8-in-x-3-16-in-x-17-ft-Grey-Vinyl-Foam-Weatherseal-Tape-V443H/100205904

 

There is a black marine grade that's pretty good, very durable.

Not sure of the maker but it is self-adhesive.

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8 minutes ago, der said:

I think if I were yanking drivers in and out on a regular basis I'd use foam as well. My woofers have been out once in the last 50+ years. Replaced my mids 30 years ago. Tweeters out and replaced with HIVI recently. Original tweets out for rebuild then back in so that will make twice for them. If I fall back in love with the original sound of the tweeters then that will likely be it in my lifetime.

Putty is the reason there are so many warped and cracked AR tweeter flanges. AR went to foam gaskets by the mid 70's.

Roy

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With the exception of an AR-2ax and an AR-2 (AR used putty to seal the drivers), all of my other AR speakers are ADD series or later, and AR used foam to seal their drivers.  I feel that the foam tape from Parts Express does just as good of job sealing the drivers as the original AR foam.

As others have mentioned, it is a real pain to remove the tweeter from an AR-2ax the first time.  How I managed not to break the plastic flange is beyond me.  When I reinstalled the drivers in the AR-2ax, I made sure that I removed all of the putty residue, lightly sanded particle board bearing surface smooth and resealed the drivers with the Parts Express foam tape.  I was pleased with the results.   

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On 2/1/2020 at 2:03 PM, RoyC said:

Putty is the reason there are so many warped and cracked AR tweeter flanges. AR went to foam gaskets by the mid 70's.

Roy

Sure did my ar4x I think they are 71 or 72 vintage they have the black ribbed 8" woofer. have white foam gaskets I had to replace a woofer in one and I just reused the gasket.

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