DavidR

You dubbed me a capacitor expert. I give my opinion which you don't like. There are differences in capacitors and reasons for it. I worked in an industry that coated paper, plastic and other substrates, we even vacuum deposited aluminum on paper. As an engineer I know what makes a good product or an average one. The differences are because of material quality, equipment that process the materials used and wind the caps and even attachment techniques. If you like Dayton then use them. I don't and know the reasons why I hear white noise in them. YOU are a bully! I am now going to block you so I don't have to be attacked by you as YOU are always the aggressor. OH L@@K ! What's that he said? Oh, look: another false accusation from RoyC about what he says I said. It was not me who said PE was made by MDL. What else will I find. You have always been the aggressor and unsubstantiated IMO. You just can't stand an opinion that differs from yours. You should treat your friends better. Carl and I had a longtime offline chat going with a few other members. Seems he had many agreements with my opinions. Gee Roy, another false accusation from you. I've been thru every post I have made and nowhere did I ever say a more expensive cap must sound better. I have said that a cap made with quality materials and quality equipment will yield a better capacitor. I stand behind that statement with my many years of engineering in an industry that made products similar to those in capacitors.

No, YOU inferred that. I would prefer to use ECaps or Bennic for the large values. Its a preference and may not be based off of anything you might consider worthy. I listed Parts Express as another source for npe caps. You can get MDL thru Madisound. A Canadian audio amigo has been to the Solen factory and saw them making Dayton. So he says. I never mentioned MDL being made by another company. Others have said Bennic made Dayton and its possible I even restated that not knowing what I later learned. Yes, I do have a problem with working with the short, thin leads. I have a hereditary disease in my hands and am facing my 4th surgery; third on my left hand. I do see this as a reason. I'm tired of you harassing me and other members because of petty differences of opinion. You even did it to Carl. If you don't like what I say you can block me. Many times I have praised you for taking the time to 'coach' me in my first surround replacement; but I get this as a response. Others have said they too are tired of this harassment, too. Seems every audio site has at least one.

What? Did I approve of the P.E. caps some where. I believe the leads are measured in millimeters. Thin and very short all the way up to 1000uF. You don't know what's come across my bench.

Basically I do not approve of the dinky (very thin) leads. But, yes, they do tend to measure well. Nothing to do with sound quality.

I know that F&T, a German capacitor company, made the Mundord Ecap and one of the Jantzen cap lines. Parts Connxton still have the Mundorf Plain. https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-ele-mundorf-e-cap-ac-series.html https://www.partsconnexion.com/jantzen-elecap.html Parts Express has NPEs made by Solen. https://www.parts-express.com/electronic-parts/capacitors/non-polarized-electrolytic-capacitors I'm not a big fan of MDL but they work.

Thanks. The crossover was designed for NPE so with no other changes to a film cap route they just don't sound 'right'. I wouldn't use the Vishay 1837 again but only because they needed the leads lengthened and soldered quickly. The CD940C is better anyway.

I've found this is the best way to rebuild the xovers. Been contemplating re-doing xovers in one of my pair of 9s over this way as my 10Pi and 90s sound 'right'.

Thanks so much for your thoughts and the videos. I had seen the video where you switched them back and forth. In that video the AR3 sounded better, more natural. Played the video on my laptop into a DAC and into my gear with AR90s. In these (new) videos the 3a sounded better; as you described. Is the earlier 3a with the alnico woofer a better choice, or doesn't matter ?

This link might be of some help. https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-remove-grills-from-ar-2ax-speakers-without-destroying-them.540051/

Yes, it does look like an AR2a grill. Maybe they were converted to ship 'contraband' in the '70s and just look like real speakers. LOL

That's how I felt when I saved a pair of 9s that had water damage. Thanks to your tips they came out pretty decent. Glenn, which do you prefer, the 3 or the 3a? I think you did a comparison video on YT. I found the 3s to be more natural. Any sonic differences in the early 3a with the alnico woofer magnet vs the later ones?

Nice! Beautiful work as always.

Go to page 3 in this link.

NICE SCORE ! Many members here that can help you get these working properly. If I'm not mistaken the tweeters can be rebuilt. However, the problem might be the pots (knobs on the back) or a bad capacitor.

yup, i see it, too

I attached a pdf of the owner's manual. Nice solution with the side panels. AR90 Owners manual.pdf

The best is yet to come ! Nice work.

What many AR9 and AR90 owners say > "If you want this sound you have to accept the looks that comes with them."

AHhhhhh, that's better. I sometimes add electrical splicing tape over exposed areas that are close. Better to be safe than sorry; but that's just me.

Make sure the 350uF is wired correctly. It may just be the camera angle making it look like the red wires/coil and one side off the cap (POS) are connected to the green/white/ black/resistor cluster (NEG). They should NOT be connected. Make sure they can't touch if jostled about and/or insulate the exposed metal. ar90 xoverschematic.pdf

Yup, many times I'd leave the old wire/lead to make it easier to connect the new cap.

If you have a Harbor Freight store in your area pick-up one of these lights.

For me the 6uF was the only difficult one to solder, especially the side that goes to the blue wire. I got a battery operated light in there, cut a length of solder approx 18" and used it like a welding rod. Then I got the (cold) soldering pen in place, turned on the juice and used my other hand for the solder. Crammed.

Looking goood!

Beautiful grain and finish.