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menchs

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  1. End of story: After experimenting with recapping the crossover of the 10pi, I finished with the following capacitors: Jantzen Superior Z-CAP for the 10uF JB capacitors (JFX 220) 2X 20uF (=40uF) Mundorf MCap MKP Classic for the 100uF Bennic NPE 2X1000uF + 1x500uF (=2500uF) I did not use bypass, but because there was no equivalent to the 2,500 uF I ended up cascading them as above. As you can see, part of these are high-end expensive caps. After burning inn period, I found the result better than the original speaker. Highs became more present and sweet, but there was also a considerable improvement to mids and bass. I love the result. Thanks for all those who helped and guided me in this jurney. Menachem
  2. Almost done. following your advise, I managed to take out the big Callins caps and one of the small caps, however two of the black caps did't want to depart from their glue (after softenning the glue with the iso alchohol). As I was concerned not to break the coil's plastic, I disconnected them and left them inside. One of the speakers didn't have a rubber gasket between the speaker and the wood - any suggestions for replacement? Also, I noticed that some people in the forums use a small value cap (0.01 uF) to bypass the big value caps, what is the purpose of this ? Another question - how can I check electronically if the 3 switchs on the front work properly? how can I get to them physically? Thanks
  3. Thanks for that. I suppose I can deal with replacing the Callins caps, but as for the rest of them (the 10uF, 20uF and 40uF) this is a different strory, as they are much much bigger and I also have 2 X 20uF caps to connect in parralel to replace the 40uF cap. This is why I brought up the idea of arranging them on a separate mazonite board on the side wall and reconnect them. As to the version, the badges are gone a long time ago (that's how I bought them when they were 10 YO). Maybe the attached picture can help...
  4. Hi all, After reading some threads in this forum, I have finally gathered the courage to open up my 40 years AR 10pi old speakers to replace the old caps. My AR's serials are advanced (10233 & 10245) so I guess they are late productions of the 2nd version. I attach a photo of the cabinet below which shows very neat and tidy arrangement of the crossover, with two Callins caps (2500uF and 100uF) and other caps that I could not identify (are they film and foil?). All capacitors lay in a POOL of glue (hot glue?). I have already arranged and prepared new caps (thanks to DavidR for advice), and I would appreciate some guidance on the following questions (I have no knowlege in electronics). 1. How do I take out the old caps and the glue around them? 2. Is it a bad idea to leave the old caps as is (just disconnect them) and preapre a board with the new capacitors attached and glued to the board (some are quite big and some also require to connect them in parralel) and then fix the board on one of the side walls of the cabinet and use electrical wires to connect and solder instead of the old contacts? 3. If 2 above is acceptable (can't help it being a CPA), few more questions : a. can I use hot glue to attach the new caps to the board? (I will also tie them up as the old ones) b. does it matter what kind of electric wires I use ?(I have some simple loudspeakes cables that i thought could be useful for that) Any other Do's and Don't tips? Thanks
  5. Just joined in with the intention to recap my 40 years AR 10pi. Does anyone know the voltage requirements of the different 5 capacitors?
  6. I am looking to replace my crossover capacitors after 40 or so years. Do you, or anybody else on the forum know the voltage requirements of the crossover capacitors? Will appreciate your help... menchs
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