DavidR

Where are you located ?

I highly recommend the Mills resistors.

FWIW even my 10Pi had incorrect wire color to a small degree from the factory. They used red wire from the center terminal strip to one end of the 100uF cap. Its supposed to be blue and is why I put a piece of blue tape on it. Also the wire from the xmfr to one side of the 2500uF is supposed to be yellow but was red. Must have had extra red wire on hand. When I recapped it I addressed some of those quirks. Is the replacement wire silver wire by chance? No reason to have messed with what AR used. Heavier wire in a speaker xover is some what useless.

I replaced mine with Mills resistors. Dead on values.

Bennic and MDL both make 500uF and 1000uF NPE caps. The MDL might be slightly better as the Bennic line has recently shrunk the physical size of their caps. I've used 2 x 1000uF + 500uF or you could use 5 x 500uF.

Many oils will volatilize.

If its thick and pasty

I attached 2 pdf files that should help. 10Pi_schematic.pdf 10Pi_xover schmtic.pdf

Hope this helps

I'm not thinking its a dirty switch as the woofer is only affected when the tweeter is in -6dB and 0dB but not -3dB and the midrange position does not affect it in any position AND only when the woofer is in the Pi position. XFMR issue is a possibility or someone messed up with the 20uF cap wiring.

Does it matter where the midrange is set?

Attached is a crossover diagram. I'll take a look at the schematic and see what could cause that.

Apparently they do. Odd there is no residue (thick brown paste like glop)

The tweeters on my son's 610's say "Nitrogen Fired". whatever that means. Is there any signs of ferrofluid residue?

I bought a pair of original Heresy for my son's first system. The were nice at low to normal volume. Accurate is a word many use to describe them. Bass was OK but did not go very deep. When the volume was put to them everything nice fell apart. I blame the horn tweeters and mids. Not to my liking. Now my son enjoys a pair of TSW610. You made a great deal ! Enjoy!

I'd go with number 1 on your list. I have several AR speaker models and have a very nice sounding SS limited Edition Emotiva SA250 amp with 500wpc and a Bob Latino/Dynaco ST-120 that has 60wpc in pentode mode. I love the sound of my tube amp with AR speakers or is it I love the sound of my AR speakers with a tube amp. I typically drive AR10Pi and AR91 with the ST120. The bass is different with a tube amp. If you want very tight bass then go with a SS amp that has high damping factor.

I restored a pair of TSW610 for my son. Be careful removing the PCB board that holds the caps and resistors for this speaker. You need to unsolder both binding posts AND sometimes they also added glue to hold the PCB in place. I will never understand why they mounted the caps on the side that faces the rear speaker wall.

Even the ones that still measure in spec should be changed. A lot of the caps in my AR90s measured in spec. Some were very close and none were leaking (unlike in my 1st pair of 9s) BUT they were doing a better job of acting like a resistor than a capacitor. I thought my tweeters had dried ferrofluid but with new caps they sound wonderful again.

I used mellotone from Parts Express on a pair of Bose 901_II. It is a very nice cloth BUT its a heavier weave than what AR used.

The Dayton NPE caps measure very well compared to some other brands. I did my AR90s with all NPE but chose the Mundorf ECap (made by F&T, a German company) for the tweeter and UMR series caps and used the Daytons for everything else. I also used 0.01uF Vishay 1837 PP caps on all the series caps. I'm very happy with the results.

Many AR9 speakers were sold without the tweeter and mid inserts.

I have a pair of 10Pi that are similar to the AR11 and use them on a 60wpc tube amp. Its totally adequate. I do have a 500wpc SS amp that I sometimes play my AR91 with and its gets too loud at about 2/3 volume. Now that I think of it I've never hooked up the 10Pi to the SS amp....................maybe something to try tomorrow.

I restored a pair of AR94 for my brother inlaw and replaced the original binding post/terminal with gold plated 5-way mini posts from Parts Express.

I'd toss that old callins for a modern cap. When I recapped my 90s I found several were still within range (+/- 10%) BUT sounded horrible. I thought my tweeters had dried ferro-fluid. The tweeters are fine. The old callins caps were acting more as a resistor than a capacitor.

Keep in mind there was three versions of the TSW series speakers. The Original (e.g. TSW610) The dash A (e.g. TSW610-A) The dash B (e.g. TSW610-B) I have no idea what the differences might be. I bought a pair of TSW610 for my son and restored them. He likes them. I had a feeling the tweeter was not exactly the same.