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  1. That could definitely be something to consider. I have been trying to factor in very expensive service on the older amps. That is definitely a good price. It is a class D amp. Although class D is coming on strong, I have never heard one in a good system. I will research more. Maybe they have a trial period? I could buy and give it a chance. It would be a big change from the heavyweights I have been running since 1978. Would love to play side by side. I have 2-Parasound P5 preamps that would allow me to set up 2 systems side by side. I have done it with big PS Audio amp and a
  2. First and foremost, I would have never have thought of biamping. But, the AR 9's came with that option. I assumed it must be better. All the comments are good, and appreciated. I did read each and give them some thought. I can see that bridging and biamping are potential problems. I wasn't really thinking bridged. I was thinking using my big PS Audio amp for low frequencies (like sub). And a higher quality amp for the detailed sounds(mids/highs). I was wondering how I would keep the output of the speakers at a balanced volume. I was thinking gain controls on at le
  3. My main question was to biamp, or not. Which has the best sound? The schematics of horizontal or vertical biamping were new to me. Has anyone tryed monoblocks on AR 9's?
  4. The AR 9 is biampable. Which way do most prefer. True Biamp: Is it best to use one amp for the lows and one amp for the mids highs? Could I use a big solid state for lows and solid state, or a tube amp for mids and highs? How big of a tube amp would be needed to reach full potential? Or, have a bigger beast of an amp to drive both lows, mids, highs. My preamp (Parasound P5) has 2 outputs. That would be a plus for biamp. Currently using AR 90's with a PS Audio 200CX. It is 200 watts/8 ohms, 400watts/4 ohms and 1000 watts at 1.5 ohms. Seems to have plenty of powe
  5. I did the trade for AR 90's. Cabinets are a 9.9/10. They came with all the original boxes and packing. I got them unthawed and hooked up. They sound awesome. I am sure they are keepers. Don't mean to bash the Klipsch. I had second thoughts before I traded. Maybe I had not given them a fair chance. Since I have only listened to them through a PS Audio CV200, I switched amps with a Parasound amp I have. I know it has good imaging. The Klipsch still were lacking imaging and dynamics. Maybe they need a tube amp? Not sure, but they are history.
  6. I just had the opportunity to trade a set of Klipsch Heresy II for a beautiful set of AR 90's. Perfect cabinets, all drivers refoamed, new caps, a bunch of original AR 90 sales brochures, sales receipt ($900/1980) and original boxes. Original owner for 40 years, second owner 1 year, and now I am the 3rd. The guy that had them could not power them. That is why he traded. He wanted Klipsch because easy to drive. No problem, I have a couple of big amps to run them. Can't wait to get them hooked up. I had the Klipsch for a few years. They came with new Crites x-overs. They got l
  7. I think I have the amps covered. At least with my oldschool setup. I have 2 amps to choose from. Preamp is a Parasound P5. Plan A. PS Audio 200CX that is an amp from yesteryear, but a beast. It is rated at 200 watts/channel (8 ohms) and 400 watts (4 ohms) and over 1000 watts at 1.5 ohms. Plan B. Aragon 8002, which is a little newer. It is rated at 125 watts/channel (8ohms) and 250 watts/channel (4 ohms). I can use either one, or both to biamp. PS Audio for low freqs and Aragon for the mids/highs. I will probably have to use 2 different circuits in the
  8. PT Doug. "Had all drivers tested and built the crossovers to match each speaker, with a flat +/-1.5 db response. " Can you enlighten me with equipment used and how to match crossovers to each speaker? Don't the resistors fine tune? I was assuming most would say they reuse the inductors. Not a deal breaker. It looks much easier to build everything on the bench, instead of inside speaker.
  9. Thanks to another member ,I have obtained original drivers to replace both non working upper midrange and 1 tweeter and 1 woofer. So, next step is crossover rebuild. I have a good background in electrical theory. There are so many choices on capacitors. NPE, film, poly, etc. I am just trying to make speakers sound as good as new, if not better. Does anyone have a cookbook recipe for AR 9 crossover update/upgrades? I realize not all size capacitors with exact uf are available. To obtain correct value multiple capacitors grouped together, in parallel, to obtain correct uf needed
  10. I have read for hours on this subject. I realize this topic has beat to death. There has to be a happy medium between zip cord and super expensive wire. Parts-Express has various sizes of wire. I would assume there has to be something a little better than this Chinese wire. I am open to size suggestions, as well as a better quality alternative, just not $8/ft Kimber Litz wire. An improper solder joint with Litz wire would be way worse than cheap wire. Just need a quality wire with good coating/insulation to prevent oxidation and produce good sound.
  11. I purchased a pair of Bozak 300 that were upgraded to 302, in the past. A learning experience. Wrong bozak mids and wrong bozak x-overs. Anyways the original wiring is long gone. I have purchased correct bozak mids and tobin upgraded crossovers. I do not want to start a wire debate. Is there something better than parts-express hookup wire? I assume it is just run of the mill Chinese wire. I just want a good quaility wire with good insulation. I am not looking for Kimber Litz wire, or the likes of any of the expensive stuff. Any input on sizes would also be appreciated.
  12. Does anyone have an opinion on whether the new replacement tweeters are of good quality compared to the originals. I realize the originals are old and the ferrofluid could be compromised (dryed up). I guess my questions is what has everyone else chosen to get the best performance. New or used?
  13. Are the tweeters from Midwest speaker the same quality as the originals? I had read they are made in China. Would hate to put Chinese parts in my "made in America speakers" Since any original would be over 40 years old, is an original's quality compromised? I am just looking to do what is best.
  14. Is it common to rebuild dome midranges and tweeters in other brands? I guess used would be fine. Just so I get the correct ones to replace my bad ones.
  15. I purchased a pair of AR 9 that need upper midrange and tweeters. Would love to get them up and running. Does anyone repair upper midrange and tweeters. I would like to keep original and avoid putting chinese replacements in. Or used is an option. Did any other models use the same drivers. Any help would be appreciated.
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