lance G

So disappointed to see him downloading the latest music editing software on that old laptop. The day the music died.

How many got neither ?!!!

I can sense your excitement from here !

Check your wiring is correct against an accurate wiring diagram. The following may help, or after fully reading make things worse !!! https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/16982-ar-90-first-time-listen-and-amplifier-pairing-question/page/2/

Maybe some new capacitors in the crossovers might be needed ?

Thanks, always good to have a definitive answer !

No stuffing ever installed from new, and not required ? This due to only very low frequencies and a requirement for large air volume movement in this area of the cabinet/s.

Not much help I know but it would be more of a sin if you could send indecent photo's ! Let's not discuss the rediculous size aspect !

I must bow to RoyC's superior knowledge but my personal thoughts are: For the speakers to make any sound a signal of some level has to be reaching them. If they were disconnected altogether there obviously would be no sound. They are passive devices, I would be be looking elsewhere. Perhaps the capacitor change has made the speakers more sensitive and you can now hear a signal that was always there ? I guess some form of RF or induction could be responsible ? How far away are your electronics from the speakers ?

Below taken form the AR9 manual, I suspect it's the same for the AR90. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/_Media/ar9_or_manual_page32-2.jpeg

I personally would be inclined to leave the high range and upper midrange drivers in place during any restoration. The inset foams surrounding the drivers are rare and unobtainable now, I would expect the foam to crumble if any attempt were made to remove it in an effort to reach the driver securing screws underneath. It's nice to see a set still on a pair of speakers, most seem to have disappeared now. Put some sort of protection over the drivers, perhaps some sturdy card or thin plywood whilst restoring the rest, cabinets etc. I don't think there would be much to gain by removing these upper drivers anyway, crossover (which is situated in the base behind woofers) callins capacitor replacement is more relevant to any refurbishment/rebuild. I have AR9's now, but had a pair of 90's previously. I loved them, and they are physically easier to live with than the larger 9's. You have the makings, after sympathetic restoration of the cabinets, grille cloth and badges, and (likely) crossover capacitors, of some superb speakers. I would go on to say enjoy, but it sounds like you already are ! Footnotes; Check out images on the internet for confirmation of the original black painted cabinet areas. Quite simply it's the backs and the areas usually covered by the grilles. AR9's are fully veneered other than the backs which are black. Of note the upper midrange drivers are unique to the AR90 and AR9's, another good reason to leave them alone, fortunate that these have not been pushed in unlike the lower midranges. Pulling out with tape should hopefully sort those and at the end of the day they are only dustcaps which could be relatively easily replaced. Finally, your cat is apparently an exhibitionist !

That's a very sweet choice of music, Donald Fagen, The Nightfly. One of my go to albums. You should get a great deal of pleasure from what you have, thoroughly enjoy !

I think the following applies to your amplifier ? It may be of some relevance to your perceived issue ? IMPEDANCE SELECTOR switch Do not change the IMPEDANCE SELECTOR switch while the power of this unit is turned on, as doing so may damage the unit. If the unit fails to turn on, the IMPEDANCE SELECTOR switch may not be fully slid to either position. If this is the case, remove the power cable and slide the switch all the way to either position. Select the switch position (LOW or HIGH) according to the impedance of the speakers in your system. Rear panel CAUTION Switch position Impedance level HIGH • If you use one set (A or B), the impedance of each speaker must be 6 Ω or higher. • If you use two sets (A and simultaneously, the impedance of each speaker must be 12 Ω or higher. • If you make bi-wire connections, the impedance of each speaker must be 6 Ω or higher. See page 6 for details. LOW • If you use one set (A or B), the impedance of each speaker must be 4 Ω or higher. • If you use two sets (A and simultaneously, the impedance of each speaker must be 8 Ω or higher. • If you make bi-wire connections, the impedance of each speaker must be 4 Ω or higher. See page 6 for details

You were relatively lucky. This was mine !

Well done ! That should be enough, quit while you're ahead. My driver was far, far worse that yours. I think mine was likely subjected to freezing temperatures and pressurisation in the aeroplane cargo hold which totally reversed/collapsed the complete dome. Report back when the rest of the work is done with an update, and enjoy !