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JKent

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Everything posted by JKent

  1. I had a pair. Some info here I’m away from home until October or I would check the photos on my computer
  2. Good advice. You can also suck out the domes with a vacuum. Scary but it works. If the dome is paper and badly creased you can wet it first. I’ve done that with KLH 12.5 mid/full range drivers.
  3. Remember--the 4x doesn't have the kind of acoustic seal other ARs do. The dust cap is porous. I seem to recall Roy saying the 4x doesn't really need to be re-doped, usually. I'm thinking less is more in the case of the 4x.
  4. Don't know why I'm fascinated by this thread. I know nothing about Thiels. FYI the tweeters are Dynaudio D28AF. You should be able to suck the domes out but you can also get replacement silk dome voice coils and rebuild them. In this thread AK member baco99 wrote "One thing I may do is replace the rubber woofer surrounds. They feel a bit stiff to me. . . . The bass seems a little constrained and I think a more supple surround will solve the problem". Doesn't look like he used the Bass EQ. https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/thiel-cs2-restoration-project.876216/page-2 btw, you wrote "I've listened to the Thiels a bit more since my purchase and the bass is definitely lacking". Just for giggles, maybe try reversing the speaker wires on one speaker. I know many of us have accidentally hooked speakers up out of phase 😉
  5. PS: Here's a manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/327977/Thiel-Cs-3-5.html?page=2 This thread has a schematic for the EQ: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/popping-noises-in-thiel-cs3-5-bass-eq.294911/
  6. Well, the $160 w/ free shipping says it works. Ebay has a good return policy--if it's not as described (working) they'll refund your money. I'd go for it. btw, one just sold on ebay for $99 so it looks like prices are all over the map. DIsclaimer: I've never heard Thiels. OTOH< I'd also do a lot of research if I owned a pair of those. Based on what little I did read, the 3.5s are some pretty high end speakers. Acoustic suspension. I'd say the dedicated EQ is essentially the same as the Allison Electronic Subwoofer. My DB-5 Tone Control (goes with the DB-1 preamp) has a selectable bass boost that may do something similar. The Thiel unit reportedly boosts bass below 70Hz. I do like Aadams's suggestion of a separate sub but using the bass EQ that was designed to go with the speakers makes sense. I did see some grousing about the quality of the EQ and apparently there was an outfit back in the day that modified them. So many decisions.....
  7. Thanks for the offer David but my Snells are all buttoned up and I'm enjoying listening to them. DOn't want to tear 'em apart again!
  8. Thanks for that info. Maybe I'll test some of my stash of NPEs and see if they all measure high. I was trusting my memory (always iffy 😉) that the ones from PE were spot on. Yes, part of my reasoning for using the Mundorf ECaps was KK's advice. Figured I's stick to NPE but go with higher quality.
  9. I have these on ebay for $500 but will sell directly to a CSP member for $425. Pickup or delivery within a reasonable radius of northern NJ. Read all about the restoration process here: https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/19945-got-a-pair-of-snell-type-j-ii-speakers/
  10. Finished, but one more step: Got a very inexpensive set of banana-to-spade adapters on ebay.
  11. Finished! The final step was to re-dope the tweeter domes using some of Roy's goo tinted with black Mixol, and spiff up the wood a little. These were well cared for so didn't really require any cosmetic fix-up. I washed the grilles. Also washed down the cabinets, then applied Rocky Mountain Lustre. I read about someone using this and I'd say it works well. It cleans and "revitalizes" the wood. These are some great-sounding speakers. Too bad I don't have room for them 🙁
  12. So the Jensens are finished and I'd say they are very listenable speakers. I put them on a shelf with my restored AR-4x's. Here are some impressions after some brief listening: The Ar-4x has better deep bass and overall seems "fuller". Highs are somewhat rolled off. The Jensen X-40 is a bit more efficient (louder). They are not rolled off so seem "crisper". The vocals seem more forward. I listened to some Miles Davis, Dire Straits, Roy Orbison and Bela Fleck. Playback equipment included a Tivoli CD player, Technics CD changer with Schiit modi 3 DAC and an iPod. Preamp is a DB Systems DBR-15B/2A. Amp is a DB Systems DB-6A, both recently upgraded. Here are some final pics. One reason the Jensen's low bass doesn't match the AR's is because the 8" woofer is more like 7". After modifying the front baffle as described in previous posts I made new grilles using 3/16" MDF and CharlesCraft Irish Linen (inexpensive at Michael's and one 20x24" roll was just the right amount). The MDF was too thin for staples so I used Aleene's Tacky Glue. Works great. The finished appearance reminds me of the European ARs with their thin face frames. Just for comparison, the 3 speakers below are Rompicollo, AR-4x and Jensen X-40 (if you've never heard of Rompicollos, they're a Johnny Richards design from a few years ago, using PE Buyout drivers. I built them in some veneered cabinets from the Sal. They also have CharlesCraft linen, while the ARs have the heavier stuff from 123 Stitch).
  13. Here’s the replacement grille vinyl I used https://www.walmart.com/ip/Crafter-s-Pride-Vinyl-Weave-Cross-Stitch-Fabric/24607701?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-393207457166:pla-51320962143&wl5=9003579&wl6=&wl7=9067609&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=24607701&veh=sem&gbraid=0AAAAADmfBIpcEDVd-5V_kHiXLn89e5nBV&gclid=CjwKCAjw8symBhAqEiwAaTA__FJO7e5AVleSH7anTbuwph58g19mCq5IqpD8G8yX5CjjOhLAaPwZmBoC9YMQAvD_BwE It may be available elsewhere. This looks similar https://www.walmart.com/ip/Charles-Craft-Vinyl-12-X-18-Aida-1-Each/24625744?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101027399&adid=22222222228000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-393207457166:pla-51320962143&wl5=9003579&wl6=&wl7=9067609&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=253095604&wl11=online&wl12=24625744_101027399&veh=sem&gbraid=0AAAAADmfBIpcEDVd-5V_kHiXLn89e5nBV&gclid=CjwKCAjw8symBhAqEiwAaTA__KP3ZbvCVAChMIi3rLuZXndiORah59akhBdQLYxdSDLQPm3m5k9abRoCCJwQAvD_BwE
  14. I tested them with my B&K Precision 810C Capacitance Meter. The caps "match" pretty closely, all 10% above rated value. As I said, YMMV but I'm not a fan.
  15. Here's an old paper from North Creek the art of bypassing.pdf
  16. I had the same experience when I rebuilt the crossovers in my Snells. Decided to give ECaps a try, since they had been recommended by some here. Mine are all about 10% over. Probably not audible but I expected better. IIRC Dayton electrolytics are usually spot on and cost less. No more ECaps for me. YMMV
  17. New caps are smaller. The original is 2000uF, I think 35v. I sent you a 2200uF 50v. Physically smaller but correct. Check the old cap. One lead will be marked. Just be sure to observe the same polarity when you replace it.
  18. Yeah--the Models Five and Thirty-Three are very similar looking speakers. I can imagine a surround system with Fives in front and Thirty-Threes in back. I'm sure you noticed that the Thirty-Threes look a lot like your OLAs. But the finishes on those have not aged well. They're not oil or lacquer. I'm guessing varnish. A real dog to strip off but WELL worth the effort as Norman's photos can attest to. Before they were dull and kinda orange. After, the walnut veneer is stunning. Good job! What did you use for a finish? I used Minwax Antique Oil on mine but I think lacquer, poly or Watco oil would also work well.
  19. Crossovers complete. The 32uF in the tweeter circuit is bypassed with a green Russian Paper-In-Oil 0.01 cap.
  20. You're welcome The original weather stripping was applied around the perimeter of the back of the cabinet. That's very narrow so I fing it much easier to apply it to the removable back panel. Use thin foam weatherstripping like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQRQA0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Should be available in hardware stores. Don't use Mortite. It's too thick and it will glue the back panel on so you'll never get it off again. Also weatherstrip around the panel with jacks and power cord. And add a little piece to the ends of the dowels that are attached to the back panel The filter cap is VERY easy to replace. I'll send you one. Just remember it's polarized, unlike speaker caps, so be sure to follow the polarization. I don't remember where I found the woven vinyl placemat but it's a good substitute.
  21. Hi Norman I've restored several Twenty-Ones, so I'll try to answer your questions. Yes--it's early, in the sense that KLH made 5 different radios, all called Twenty-One. Your version was first. First pic below shows 4 of them. I don't believe that specific knob was used on anything else. I have one for you. The cabinet has to be airtight. The speaker is the ubiquitous "Twelve point Five" used as a mid in the Twelve and Five speakers and full range in the 8, 11, 13, 14, 15, 19, 21 and others. KLH recommended re-doping (Roy's goo). You will have to put thin weatherstripping (like 1/8") around the perimeter on the back. Easiest wy is to put it on the back panel. Also around that area where the jacks and power cord are. I assume you have the "potato sack" stuffing. I don't know about difficult. I have the service manual if you want. I always replace the 2000uF filter cap just because it's very easy and will prevent 60 cycle hum from developing any time soon. Your refinishing sounds good. You can't. I've had some success removing it, cutting and pasting. I've also used a woven vinyl placemat. You "could" use cloth but it won't look authentic. The 2nd pic shows original on the bottom, vinyl mat on top (but I don't remember where I got it). Third pic shows the cut-and-paste almost finished. Kent
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